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I admire the initiative, but I think you would have great difficulty copying all the ABC lines.
I contacted several hydraulics shops over the last few years, after I started having ABC problems, and the consensus was that they could fit repair sections to replace the failed or failing flexible sections, but not make the whole pipe.
There were various methods for repairing - flexible sections could be fitted by using 10 and 12mm compression joints, by using flared / tapered joints (such as JIC), or by welding (using suitable jigs).
I replaced all the flexible sections in the engine compartment on my 164k mile car, and that's been a very effective and economical method. The process is described above and in my signature thread.
There are a couple things I learned working on my ABC system to replace air cells and hoses that I never saw on line before working on my car.
1. Before you disconnect the quick couplers at the strut, bleed the pressure out of the strut at the bleed valve in the line. Even if the car is jacked up & the wheel is hanging there can be a lot of residual pressure in the strut. When you disconnect the quick coupler, there is a valve similar to a tire valve stem that slams shut keeping the pressure in the strut. You can not hook the hose back up without bleeding off the pressure. I made a tool to do this, but if you are not able to fabricate a tool like I did you will have a difficult time reconnecting the coupler.
2. Replacing the HPE hose does not require lifting the engine, but replacing the main pressure line from the pump does and the main pressure hose is a PITA compared to the HPE hose. Lifting the engine is a piece of cake, just two easily accessible bolts and use the lifting ring at the front of the motor and an engine hoist. Be sure to disconnect the upper radiator hose before lifting the engine though or you could damage the radiator. I unbolted the thermostat housing and moved it out of the way to remove the cooling fan and belt giving me better access anyway.
3. Replacing that high pressure hose does require disconnecting the main pressure line from the A/C compressor so have the A/C system vacuumed out before you tear apart the car. It would suck having to just open it it up and let all the refrigerant out into the atmosphere because your car is already torn apart in your garage.
4. If you are looking for a way to get a wrench on the banjo bolt holding the hoses to the pump and scratching your head while thinking WTF, don't worry, it is not as bad as it looks. A long extension and wobble socket going up through the hole where the lower control arm attaches to the body allows easy access. There is a plastic cover over the hole so you cant see the access at a glance, but it just pushes out of the way when you push the extension through it and falls back into place when you pull the extension out.
Finally, if anyone needs to borrow the strut pressure release tool I made because you disconnected the quick coupler and now cannot get it to go back on, just ask. Pay the shipping and send it back to me when you are done.
For the HPE hose, is that the "Hose that goes nowhere" where it makes a U turn back?
Like to replace that hose without doing the method of lift the engine and loosen front subframe..
I've got a ABC leak in that general area, I replaced the front struts with new ones, and the ABC hose that goes to the Passenger Front side strut.. but that didn't solve it.
With the fan and poly Belt removed and the Pulley removed from the pump, can I get to that HPE hose / banjo nut?
Also before I pull the pulley off, can I turn the pump by hand or wrench to try to find out "exactly" which of those hoses are leaking?
Well, the CL65 isn't my main Driver, and I finally got around to find the actual ABC hose that broke..the hose that loops and goes no where from the tandem pump.
I did it "without" loosening the subframe (and removing the steering, arms, etc).
Removed the Driver side Air Box.
Removed the fan (by loosening the transmission line that stops the fan from coming out - easy) (note, Fan has the lower two bolts that holds I think a transmission or oil line, also that needs to be removed).
Disconnected coolant hoses that are in the way to removing the fan, or moved them out of the way (zip ties).
Removed the metal coolant tube ontop that connects to a large coolant hose.
Loosened the bolts on the Tandem pulley before I removed the belt.
Removed the Tandem pump pulley (just the pulley, not the tandem pump).
Removed all ABC Reservoir (both ABC and Power Steering Reservoir, 3 or 4 bolts)
Redirect all the hoses out of the way.
Disconnected the electrical connector obvious blocking near the Banjo bolt, moving it out of the way .
Reached the Banjo bolt from the bottom with extension and socket thru the plastic piece around the A-arm.
In the End, I did replace two hoses. The other one which I thought had a leak, was the hose that connects the passenger side strut to the ABC valve(driver side).
Replaced both Struts with new ones also.
Now I'm on my way putting the rest back together... Slowly.
Some Notes:
-Have someone help you guide the socket/extension to remove and put back the Banjo Bolt is almost a must.
-(before you put the belt back on) You can turn the tandem pulley clockwise and see the ABC fluid come out of the hose that feeds the powersteering reservoir. (The ABC fluid coming out of that hose was yellowish and eventually turned blue green)
- Going to try to see if I can bleed the ABC by opening up one of the nipples and see if it bleeds by also turning the pulley by hand (Similar to how it did with the hose going back to the powersteering reservoir. (I'm not loosening up the Banjo bolt again, it was hard enough).
-I think this hose got cooked like a sausage.. Recommend putting on a heat resistive hose sleeve. I'm pretty sure any model using the ABC system will have hoses go, matter of time and heat..
Some Notes:
-Have someone help you guide the socket/extension to remove and put back the Banjo Bolt is almost a must.
Good job!
Pushing the socket extension past the plastic cover is a brilliant idea.
To keep the socket steady, I wrapped some tape around the universal joint, and that still permitted enough movement to get the banjo bolt without the socket toppling over every time.
Well, I got everything put back together, car raised, can be raised up and down, no errors.
I had to clear the initials errors with my DAS emulator, also I had add positive air pressure on the ABC reservoir to get the pressure readings registered up to get it working.
Thought it was all good ready for a test drive.
But However..
I now have a Power steering issue now, no assist...super hard to steer, seems like there is air somewhere.
The power steering was working since I made it into the garage for the hose swap..kept the ABC Reservoir Topped off never empty but that doesn't matter since the power steering reservoir was at the correct fluid level, until I pulled the whole unit (both reserviors as a unit) to swap out the hose of the pump.
Can anyone suggest anything else I can do additionally to determine if the power steering side of the tandem pump is working or not?
I've done the following on the power steering side:
Done the 30 times (Prob 50 times) steering wheel lock to lock procedure with car raised, several times without engine on, with engine on.
Tried a vacuum pump(MytiVac) to suck the fluid for air bubbles, ends up just sucking fluid, some air bubbles.
Tried to add some pressure (like I did for the ABC), with the engine on and off turning the wheel
The power steering was working since I made it into the garage for the hose swap..
Some symptoms of the steering, when locked all the way left, makes a squishy spongy fluid/air like sound, also makes a squishy sound about halfway from center lock head for right wheel lock.
Fluid from the Power Steering low pressure return hose will flow with the engine on or being pumped..not sure if the flow rate is normal.
Can the power steering pump section be bad on the tandem pump? Seems like there is air in there somewhere not letting the steering pump apply fluid pressure to make it to the steering rack assist activate.
Used DAS to check the Ohms on the Y10 Steering Rack Control Valve Solenoid Electrical connector. ~480-900mohms, tried realtime DAS engine on, F3 ON/OFF test also.
I want to know the pump is really defective before I pull it and put another one in.. I do have a deadhead power steering gauge coming but not sure where I would connect it to see if the power steering pump has 1200+ pressure..
Well, I tried everything minus removing the pump and replacing it. I think the seals are gone... in the end, I lost the ABC pressure. I think the pump finally died.
Shopping for a pump, anyone recommend with good refurbished tandem pumps or new one?
Anyone using a refurbished pump and all is well?
Originally Posted by NRL
Well, I got everything put back together, car raised, can be raised up and down, no errors.
I had to clear the initials errors with my DAS emulator, also I had add positive air pressure on the ABC reservoir to get the pressure readings registered up to get it working.
Thought it was all good ready for a test drive.
But However..
I now have a Power steering issue now, no assist...super hard to steer, seems like there is air somewhere.
The power steering was working since I made it into the garage for the hose swap..kept the ABC Reservoir Topped off never empty but that doesn't matter since the power steering reservoir was at the correct fluid level, until I pulled the whole unit (both reserviors as a unit) to swap out the hose of the pump.
Can anyone suggest anything else I can do additionally to determine if the power steering side of the tandem pump is working or not?
I've done the following on the power steering side:
Done the 30 times (Prob 50 times) steering wheel lock to lock procedure with car raised, several times without engine on, with engine on.
Tried a vacuum pump(MytiVac) to suck the fluid for air bubbles, ends up just sucking fluid, some air bubbles.
Tried to add some pressure (like I did for the ABC), with the engine on and off turning the wheel
The power steering was working since I made it into the garage for the hose swap..
Some symptoms of the steering, when locked all the way left, makes a squishy spongy fluid/air like sound, also makes a squishy sound about halfway from center lock head for right wheel lock.
Fluid from the Power Steering low pressure return hose will flow with the engine on or being pumped..not sure if the flow rate is normal.
Can the power steering pump section be bad on the tandem pump? Seems like there is air in there somewhere not letting the steering pump apply fluid pressure to make it to the steering rack assist activate.
Used DAS to check the Ohms on the Y10 Steering Rack Control Valve Solenoid Electrical connector. ~480-900mohms, tried realtime DAS engine on, F3 ON/OFF test also.
I want to know the pump is really defective before I pull it and put another one in.. I do have a deadhead power steering gauge coming but not sure where I would connect it to see if the power steering pump has 1200+ pressure..
Well, I tried everything minus removing the pump and replacing it. I think the seals are gone... in the end, I lost the ABC pressure. I think the pump finally died.
Shopping for a pump, anyone recommend with good refurbiuu
Anyone using a refurbished pump and all is well?
It's been a while and she's been sitting in the garage, but I finally got a refurbished pump, new reservoir and vacuum hoses that goes from reservoir to pump and took everything apart... took me about 3 days off and on..a year.
For the CL65 in short this is what I did:
Jacked it up
Removed under body panels
Have a large fluid pan for underneath the car.. coolant and hydraulic fluid everywhere.
Disconnected top coolant hose and unscrew and remove metal cast coolant tube, 3 bolts (blocks fan removal).
Unscrew (passenger side of fan) Transmission cable 19mm / nut where it's blocking the fan from being removed, just let it tangle, put a cap on the transmission line.
To Remove Fan, first remove two screws on the bottom that wraps around a transmission line screwed into fan box, then two screws on top, with the fan half way pulled up, disconnect electrical connector on the right side of fan(added dielectric grease to protect it from coolant or want ever).
Removed Driver side Air box and side tubing, dont' damage that electrical connector on that air box. 2 or 3 screws and pull it straight up off the turbo inlet.
Loosen bolts on tandem pump pulley before you Remove serpentine belt, 17mm - then remove belt so you can remove the pulley from the tandem pump. Belt is easy to remove with the fan and coolant tubing out of the way.
Drain reservoir container (ABC and Powersteering sections)
Remove hoses from tandem pump that connects to the Reservior, remove Reservoir (3 nuts, 3 bolts).
With Reservoir out of the way, there is enough room now to undo 3 bolts from tandem pump. Didn't have any issues with that back nut.. it was easy to get off for me.
Also from underneath, thru the plastic covering the steering arm, undo the banjo bolt connected to the pump (connects to suspension hose that goes nowhere and to hydraulic block (forgot it was either a 17m, 19mm for the banjo bolt)
Cleaned up the mess.
Removed Tandem pump,
Cleaned up the mess.
Put in the new Tandem pump
Put it back together in reverse
Made sure the reservoir was topped off to right level; power power steering and abc sections
With it jacked up, I primed the tandem pump turning it counterclockwise BY HAND and filling the powersteering until fluid came out of the return line (I let more of it out until it looked better).
Topped off fluids again. You can see the fluid level go lower on both the ABC and Powersteering fluid levels. Eventually it stops going down in fluid level, turning the pulley wheel by hand.
Turned the wheel side to side and also turning the pulley/tandem pump counterclockwise, about 20 times. Checked fluid levels via dip stick again.
Lowered the car halfway till it was touching the ground with a little weight.
Started the car and turned the wheel side to side, tested the power steering, it's working!
Lowered the car all the way down and tested power steering, working still.
ABC Red light is on, did the positive pressure trick to trick the abc pressure sensor, I took a air pump, small hose and rubber cork with blue tape and continuously feed about 15psi on the small hole on the abc section of the reservoir, Red error went away.
Car now goes up and down selecting ride height.
Test drove it.. All is well.
Probably test drive it some more, looking for leaks before I put all the rest of the lower body panels back on.
Not sure what I'm going to do with the CL65 Queen next....
Hi NRL, no worries our Queens will always come up with a new surprise.
I had to change the front high pressure hose ( A 221 320 36 72) because it failed completely. The old was already few times fixed by highly trained hydraulic specialist from east Asia, WTF.
Got original Benz for 400 USD as a no brainer replacement. It fits, it sits, it does the job as designed and will do the job for the coming 10 years. OK, fingers crossed as the hose is behind the air cooler and in my area, Dubai, we have hot summers like 104F plus. I will cover the hose with a heat sleeve in the near future, need to make the measurements and order the right one. Here is the link.
I have just bought the ABC service tool from https://agatools.com/products/aga-mb-abc-ft , I guess this is a must, servicing your ABC without flooding the neighbourhood with petosin.
Happy wrenching
Last edited by Marcus Duffner; 12-07-2019 at 06:22 AM.
Reason: foto missing
I need assistance PLEASE!!!!
How does one remove the rear passenger side ABC pressure hose?
I have loosened the hose completely but unable to pull it out from the passenger side.
It appears almost impossible to snake it out.
Is there a trick to removing this pressure hose?
For those that don't frequent the W220 forum, here's an illustrated description of my second ABC hose repair.
While I was upgrading the IC system, I had the front end apart, which allowed easy access to the ABC pipe between the front valve assy and the RHS front strut. I knew it had been seeping for a few months, and wanted to change the pipe before it failed (and we were about to go on holiday). This is what it looked like from underneath:
I raised the car, drained the fluid and removed the pipe - a few minutes' work for the valve end, and a few HOUR'S work for the "quick release" connector. I got my usual hydraulics contractor to make a new 3/8" two-wire hose with 10mm compression fittings:
They did it while I waited, and it cost £41. I scraped the paint off and thoroughly cleaned the metal pipes, then cut them with a plumber's pipe cutter, and fitted the new hose to the clean ends:
I ran some Pentosin CHF-11S through the pipe, and part-filled it before fitting. Access is awkward to fit the hose to the valve assy, so its easier when the headlight, the horn and the headlight washer are removed.
Here's the hose in front of the sub-frame. I skipped the solid pipe section there and protected the hose with a section of heater hose (I had a lot lying around...) and that fitted the existing bracket quite neatly.
Getting all the jacks and stands from underneath the car is tricky when the suspension doesn't support itself, but eventually I started the engine and raised the suspension up and down several times, keeping the reservoir fully topped up. It didn't leak a drop. A couple of days later I finished putting the charge cooler together and took the family on holiday. All that happened was I got a slight leak from a headlight washer pipe (another "quick-fit" connector ......).
That's how I look after ABC. This was a similar job to fixing the damper hose, but much easier this time due to better access, and simply because I'd done it before. Apart from the seized quick release connection, it was quite straightforward.
Nick
Hi Nick, I found this old post of yours. I am going to replace the exact same hose. You mention fighting the "quick connect fitting", I have never removed one, how do they work and what can make it easier, a penatrating oil? Thanks, Kevin.
Hello there. I'd like to get the length of all hydraulic hoses for my 05 CL65. Did any of you DIY'ers have measurements when you upgraded them to custom? Thank you in advance
01-22-2018, 03:27 PM
