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2008 CL63 Pulsation Damper Changeout for M156 engine

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Old 01-21-2018, 09:31 PM
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2008 CL63 (W216/M156.377)
2008 CL63 Pulsation Damper Changeout for M156 engine

Been reading up a bit on the entire ABC system and right on schedule (65K miles), the dreaded "grind" sound emanating from the ABC pump. Ordered up a new damper "bomb" from MBOnlineParts and set about the repair. Short story: You only need to loosen up the power steering and ABC reservoirs from the body mounts and wiggle both out of the way to get sufficient room to remove and replace the damper. It's a tight fit, and involves some hand gymnastics, but overall, a fairly simple DIY repair. The old damper took way more than 45 nm of torque to break free using a 17 mm socket with 1/2 drive and an 2' extension. Be careful to keep the socket seated tightly against the "nut" cast into the damper cover else it'll strip.

No more grinding noises in the morning and I can rest easy the pump and ABC valves are no longer getting hydraulically hammered.

Having been down in the bowels of the engine bay, I shudder at what it's going to take to get the ABC pump removed when the time comes. It's tight down there.

Last edited by Mark out West; 01-21-2018 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 10-29-2021, 02:35 AM
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'14 E500 Coupe
@Mark out West

Old thread sorry but if Mark is still active member and read this... You really didn't have to loosen bolts of the ABC pump or anything? I'm about to change new dampener tonight if it's really easy as you wrote. Othervice I have to make more time to do this. '07 CL63. Thanks!
Old 10-29-2021, 09:36 AM
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2008 CL63 (W216/M156.377)
Originally Posted by MouTine
@Mark out West

Old thread sorry but if Mark is still active member and read this... You really didn't have to loosen bolts of the ABC pump or anything? I'm about to change new dampener tonight if it's really easy as you wrote. Othervice I have to make more time to do this. '07 CL63. Thanks!
Nope, no loosening, at least for me. Biggest issue was getting to bomb off with stripping the nut welded to the top of the bomb. I'd give it a try. Worst case you have to go back in and loosen the pump mountings. Good luck.
Old 10-29-2021, 12:22 PM
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'14 E500 Coupe
Happily I can report back that this was byfar the most satisfyeing fix!

First of all the ball came out super easy. It wasn't even tight. Secondly... I removed that small wire loom holder from the corner of cylinder head. Held by one torx screw. Than I just loosened ABC reservoir bolts but didn't even took them off. Then there was plenty of room. 30 minutes max.
But the most positive feeling came when drove home. All kind of hydraulic rattles and noises are all gone. No yelling sound at 2500rpm. I have always tought that this sound was part of exhaust note but no. Whole car feels more comfortable. I need do front and rear axle accumulators also. I have Corteco ones waiting at my carage.

Any ways... How a small damn ball can make a man happy. Thanks @Mark out West and have a nice week end.
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Old 10-29-2021, 01:08 PM
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2008 CL63 (W216/M156.377)
Great news. Glad everything worked out well.

I just replaced my crankcase breather valve at the back of the intake manifold. Maybe I can post up a DIY set of instructions specific to the W216 given the time.

C'mon guys. Let's start wrenching our CL coupes!
Old 10-29-2021, 03:12 PM
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Did the crankcase breather create a tapping type noise? What was your symptom?
Old 11-02-2021, 11:00 PM
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Breather failure occurs at 50-60K miles plus. Usually manifests itself with a check engine light (non-flashing) and a "P" code - it think it's right bank adaptation. You know it's really shot when you shut off the engine and there's a momentary whistle/whine/wheeze coming from the engine bay.

Some folks claim you can replace it without removing the intake manifold, but couldn't imagine getting my hands into that incredibly tight space. I took the opportunity to replace all my injectors while the manifold was off the engine.

Another depressing note - the guts of the manifold are magnesium. AMG coated the visible parts, but there's a lot of uncoated/untreated surface that's rapidly corroding and cracking. I can't see these manifold lasting more that 15-20 years before they develop some serious cracks.
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Old 11-03-2021, 10:25 AM
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Interesting, thanks for that. I am wondering if the injector change should be a routine (say 50k miles) maintenance. Coils at the same time. I have 35k miles and need to save my pennies for the future.
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Old 11-03-2021, 01:16 PM
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No need for either at this time. My car had 85K miles on it and I was worried about a stuck injector.
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Old 11-07-2021, 01:39 AM
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'14 E500 Coupe
If you are talking about PCV valve it is not easy but doable without removing intakemanifold. Found a topic where a guy just cut the locking plastic bands or what ever they are called and just pulled the connector off. Atleast worked for me.
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Old 11-15-2021, 04:54 PM
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Hello guys. I have a question about damper replacement - the operation can be carry out without pressure lowing with xentry or StarD? ABC is high pressure system and i'm a little bit affraid of remove any parts ot the system..
EDIT: I only want to check if will be able to unscrew the damper with my wrench and it turned out that dumper was totally loose, i used only hand without any effort...Now i am wondering if the ABC system not suffered due to this. ;/
So check out my noise. Do you guys think this is pulsation damper case?
https://streamable.com/pny36y

Last edited by smola; 11-15-2021 at 06:03 PM.
Old 11-16-2021, 12:27 AM
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Hey there @smola

Theres no presure when engine off. No worries. Only place where it is possible to have pressure is between strut and valve block and only when vehicle sit on its tyres.

My damper was allso loose as it was like hand tite. If its not leaking its ok, don't over tight it.

According your video I would say it time to change the dampener. I ordered Zabienski one. Works fine.




Last edited by MouTine; 11-16-2021 at 06:43 AM.
Old 11-16-2021, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MouTine
I ordered Zabienski one. Works fine.
I also did.
Did you order the new one or refurbished?
Old 11-17-2021, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by smola
I also did.
Did you order the new one or refurbished?
I think it was listed as new but personally I don't know.

Looks like many distributors say and sell all sort of ABC components as refurbished but they are all new from China. This happened to me when I bought new pair of front struts. I was expecting to have refurbished OEMs, but belhold, there was brand new ones in the box with CMW logo. Returned them right away. I have nothing against china-parts but not with that prize I payd.
Old 11-17-2021, 03:38 PM
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Operation lasted about 20 minutes. No annoying whining any more.
Old 11-18-2021, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by smola
Operation lasted about 20 minutes. No annoying whining any more.
Nice to hear. All thanks should go to @Mark out West . He pointed out that it is relative easy task to change linepressure dampener in M156 engine.

Smola you should post pics of your CL into picture thread in non-AMG area.
Old 11-21-2021, 01:52 PM
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I just got mine changed this weekend. No more whining, no more pulsation on tight turns.
Old 02-06-2022, 03:21 PM
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Noise in area pump tanden

hello, I have a noise in the tanden suspension pump area (cl550 year 2007), when it heats up, could it be the pulsation damper? Please I need help, can I change it at home? is there a lot of pressure? thanks in advance!
Old 02-07-2022, 02:34 AM
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Hi.
No pressure. Very simple work, about 30 minutes. It could be damper but without video/audio it is hard to say. F.ex. if noise is louder when you;re turning the steering wheel it may by something else.
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Old 02-08-2022, 01:05 AM
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Thank you very much for answering, the noise is always the same, but it only appears in the area of ​​the suspension pump, when it is hot and the car has been started for about 10 minutes. the noise is like a metal shackle.
Old 02-24-2022, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by M273abc
...it only appears in the area of ​​the suspension pump. The noise is like a metal shackle...
Yes. Those are the same telltale signs that I had. Go for it!

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