The excessive heat damage to the belt that runs from the crankshaft to the water pump caused the water pump to stop circulating coolant, and the engine to overheat. According to the data retrieved from the engines on board controller, the coolant light warning came on seven times prior to the engine failure. We received the vehicle with 41719 miles. The last engine warning light came on at 41716 miles. Because of the engine damage our technicians were not able to start the engine and drive the vehicle into the stall for inspection.
For clarification reasons, I should explain that the vehicle has two belts on the engine, one for all the accessories (this would be the large one that is easy to see), and the second belt for the water pump, which is run exclusively by the crankshaft (This belt is hard to see from the top of the engine). We have included photos, so you can make out what we are describing. The belt is melted to the pulley.

 

Not sure what state you're in, but I'd file a lawsuit, pro se. Courts are typically pro-plaintiff/consumer and, at worst, MB would likely pay off for nuisance value/defense cost.

It'd be expensive for either side to prove the cause as you'd need to hire an expert. An expert would likely cost a few grand, plus appearance and motion costs. They'd have to spend $5-10k just to get rid of you, assuming they're successful. They'd probably throw you a few grand just to make you go away.

 

With no oil ? I have experience with no oil in engines lasting 20 or more minutes be for a seizing failure and of course depends on the load, and the engine type and brand.
If when you were driving it and you heard a clunk or bang noise then that could be a rod letting loose from lack of lube. It sounds like your right about them causing the rod issue, by starting it.
If it would have happened when driving it the shop should have caught a hole in the crankcase. Its a difficult call with out being there for the whole experience, maybe the last oil change they shorted you on the oil fill.

 

Not sure why you posted that. I read it. Alternator allegedly overheating a belt is BS, especially because according to them the water pump has its own belt. So you mean to tell me that an alternator over heating is going to melt a belt that doesn't touch it? I'd be curious if the actual belt that runs the alternator is melted also.

Heres a diagram of the front refuse box. There is a 200 Amp and a 300 Amp fuse in there. By the dealers logic this should be over working the alternator from the factory.

 

The guy that inspected it before it was taken to Mercedes inspected the belt specifically because I though it was a frozen pulley when it happened and found nothing wrong with the belt also as far as I can find there is only one belt! As far as the pictures the Attorney generals office said they will take none of them as evidence because they could be from any car (specially the dipstick one are you kidding me?). Also they are investigating why there was only two codes pulled from my car when there should be a long list to include over heat. If you look under the coolant code the engine was ignited 16 times since that code and it was 3 miles from what the current miles is on the car so either it was unrelated or the dealership started the car quite a few times. When I inspected the car after all of this I took a video and the exact belt they show in that picture I have in my video and it is still in tact with no sign of "white" overheat. If an alternator or etc is rated at 175 amp you wouldn't put a 175 amp fuse in it because it is allowed to draw 175 you would go one step up and a 200 amp would be appropriate as another stated the factory fuses are 200 amp. Their story just doesn't add up at all. If their story is disproved then they are guilty in the eyes of the law. Also if the engine was cracked by the rod as stated any idiot mechanic would be able to see that when it was up on the lift. When this all happened I pulled off the road within a quarter mile when it started smoking. Not enough time for a belt to burn up, water pump to seize, then engine blow. That whole process would take at-least 5 minutes and would be giving faults out the wazoo why would I possibly drive my car further down the road once it started smoking!

 

Also I have a recording of one of their service guys telling me that an AMG engine like mine can blow within seconds if started with no oil, hes seen it a couple times even without being driven. (I called and gave no information but car type and the question) I'll see if I can post the video I took when inspecting it.

 

 

What a joke man

 

Attorney generals office of New mexico isn't doing anything. Apparent'y if both parties don't want to play ball then won't do anything which gives no incentive for the business to play ball in the first place all they have to say is no and that's it so that process is worthless. We are going to go pick it up with a truck and trailer Sunday and haul it to a local shop that has an Independent Mercedes Master Mechanic drop it off and have them do a full inspection and tell us whats wrong with it and what caused it without giving them any information so no one can say we influenced their decision. i'll update when I have their report.

 

So was the coolant ever reading high or check engine coming on prior to seizing?

 

The dealer is pushing the "modification" angle way too much, that wire has nothing to do with this issue it's just an obvious modification. If you look at page 10 there's a handwritten note saying "fuse was not inline from the alternator to the battery, it is from battery to equipment". There are a ton of stored codes for undervolting on various modules but that could be amateur mechanics trying to reset the codes by pulling the battery power from the car with the ignition on. If the wire shorted against the chassis it would have blown the 200a fuse or if the short was less significant it would simply drain the battery.

They're saying the coolant warning light came on 7 times, first time was at 41,200 miles, you haven't mentioned it once, why?

Might want to get that cold checked out, sniffling every 5 seconds like you got a bad habit.

 

The coolant error came up on my screen a couple times over the weeks leading up to this. All it said was check coolant level so I checked the coolant level and each time it was fine. I asummed it was a faulty sensor and was going to get it checked during the next oil change. Also if you see in the documents the car had been started 16 times since the last occurrence of the check coolant code so either it was a unrelated issue or it was started a bunch of times since being taken to the dealership.

Also only one page of the codes (the one with hot pink sticky notes) is my vehicle the other ones are all to a sprinter van thats not mine...

As far as the sniffling there is a large forest fire 5 miles north of my house that will probably be burning the rest of the summer with the smoke and all everyone in durango is kinda sick at the momemt... Google 416 fire for more info.

 

Engine light or related error messages never occurred prior to this.

 

All signs point to your car overheating. Their explanation for the frayed belt of sustained 175 to 199 amp is unrealistic and in the video he makes reference to the water pump housing being hot white. The science says water can't heat aluminum to the point of making it white hot not with 15 psi steam pressure, but if the water pump bearing was to fail the friction of the pulley would definitely do it. Next step is to pull the belt off and examine it along with the water pump.

 

exactly

Plus if your car is technically out of warranty I don't know it seems like they are trying so hard to deny coverage.

 

Update for ya'll. Transported the car to a local import shop that has two independent Mercedes master mechanics. First thing they noticed is that there is a good sized hole in the front of the engine with the rod literally sticking out. So if it was like that before i'm pretty sure the first mechanic would of noticed that. Also they verified the belt is in tact and it is only one belt not two. Tested the water pump and it is not seized. Talking to an Attorney Monday to start the lawsuit process. Going to see if me and my buddy can pull the alternator to get it tested as well. Just having the belt in one piece and the water pump not seized along with the factory fuses being 200 amp and 300 amp completely destroys their story. Like Knowbenz said they tried way to hard with that story and its way to easy to disprove. Hoping once the lawyer files the paperwork they finally decided to settle. This is turning out to be the craziest fiasco that has ever happened in my life.

 

You're going after mercedes or the dealer that wouldn't cover it?

 

Sounds like the motor hydrolocked from coolant and broke the rod

 

The dealer who started it with no oil.

 

Its too bad the first shop that inspected it didn't check the oil, and or did they try turning the engine? They should have done a "good" inspection and written down what they found. That sure would have helped you.

 

First shop report states that they checked the belt and found it slightly worn but in tact and that they manually turned over the engine and found nothing frozen, They then checked the oil and that's when they found that there was about a cup of oil left in it so it had a major oil leak since no codes registered the low oil.

Have a video call with the lawyer Friday to get the Arbitration process going.

 

Also does anyone have the serpentine belt set up for this car? Mercedes is stating it has two belts but everything i'm finding and being told is that it has one?

 

If the first shop said it was free and turned, and now it does not. Then you have a good case. If the person inspecting it in the first shop was doing his / her job, they should have checked all over that engine looking for where the possible leak was coming from, and would have had no problem seeing a rod sticking out. And in most cases the crankshaft will not turn with a destroyed rod that is sticking out of the case.
Oh and most importantly, a bad belt (not timing belt) the one that drives things like water pump, alternator, ac compressor etc. will not cause a loss of engine lube oil. Only place oil can go is by a bad seal, or being sucked through pcv system. The term bad seal is all encompassing, covering gaskets, shaft seals, piston oil control, valve seals etc. no place is a bad serpentine belt included.

 

Next one that comes through the shop I'll take a look but I'm not even seeing any optional equipment or anything that may require an extra belt






Standard M270 engine has one belt as well.

 

EPC shows only one belt as well