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Glad to see that the fix worked. I am glad to see that someone bothered to tear apart the switch to see how simple the part is...essentially an electrical contact. I will not buy a stop lamp switch the next time I get the ESP/BAS message flashing on my dash. I love MB, but I really wish they would look to other vendors for many of their components (namely sensors). I think this would have a profound affect on their reliability ratings and consumer satisfaction....
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ESP BAS ABS lights on again
So I pulled out the switch and cleaned it and the messages went away everything was fine for 2 days and now all the lights are on again so all I did was pull the switch out and put it back in and the lights went out again.....next day Bas ESP ABS lights back on.....What do you all think ? Will a new one correct this????
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A new one will fix the problem, I put one in about 2 weeks ago and I haven't seen that message again. Depending on what year your car is I have a BRAND NEW one never used. I bought it but it was the wrong part for my car and I couldn't return it. I'll sell it to you for $12.00 shipped. Just PM me.
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2 days ago I changed the oil/oil filter/air filter, and about 40-50 miles later the ABS/BAS/ESP lights come on. Restarting enginer cleared.
I will wait to see if this happens again, will try cleaning, and if it does not work, I will replace the swtich. I will report all results back. But until then, should I worry about the brake lights not working if those lights come on again? I read some posts that say they won't work and others that will. I know the Cruise control will not work and the ESP off switch does not work. It's one thing to have the lights come on and those systems not working (especially if restarting the engine clears) but it is another thing to drive without brake lights. Thanks in advance. |
I FOUND IT......at the end.
DEAR COLLEAGUES, THE FUC.... PROBLEM OF THE BAS, ESP , ABS LIGHT IT'S NOT THE BRAKE SWITCH Is THE ACCELERATOR SENSOR.
Yes it's true I change the "famous" brake switch and nothing... At the end my steler put the computer on the car and........ The acelerator sensor it's the problem here is the part number. This switch is about 85 euros (without taxes) and is below the trunk.... Part numerber: 1635420618 |
Man i just got mine done today and the labor was $90 . crap i need to read these before i go to the *&$@ shop to get it fixed. They said it was 90 because its estimated to take an hour but when i went there the little thiefs did it in 5 freakin mins. man i wanna go back and hit the guy in the mouth. Thanks guys ill keep this in mind before i go to any shop ever again.!!!
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what switch did they replace? I also have the ABS/BAS/ESC lights on solid, can was in an accident and I replaced the front knuckleand upper control arm, hoping the abs sensor isnt bad, but new to the codes.
Ill def read the posts though. Does the steering wheel full left to right clear the codes? Jim |
Folks,
I just replaced the stop lamp switch on my 2000 CLK430 today and still the ABS, ESP and BAS lights will not clear. My brake lights are still not working as well. Lights seems to come on only after I start the vehicle and the brakes are applied. Anything else I need to do. Please advice. Adam |
Bas Abs Esp
OK finally installed the switch and all lights stopped coming on!!! The hardest thing to do was just disconnecting the old switch from the harness... The whole thing took obo 15-20 minutes. :) I did turn my wheel all the way left then right after however don't know if I really had to do that. Now to fix my driver window "it wont go up!!!!" motor turns on it just won't move!!:eek:
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Thanks!
Thanks guys!
I got the BAS/ARS light on yesterday with the EPS error message displayed on the cluster instrument. I took out the switch and opened it up. The metal connector inside was broken into two peaces:smash:. I got the new switch today $12.50, will install it tonight!:zoom: Thanks again! :y |
Just an update on my BAS/ABS/ESP light status
These things seem to also happen sort of once in a blue moon.
Mine came on 05/13 while driving after hitting the breaks. I restarted the engine and cleared the lights. Now, over 3000 miles later, and almost 5 months later, I have yet to see them again on my 2002/E320. So I guess if it happens to you, you might be lucky and not see it for a long while. I am keeping my fingers crossed. |
Possibily a defective voltage regulator on the alternator.
Originally Posted by ForrestBlackbur
(Post 2180605)
I've got a a similar issue but with much more kinks...
Friday night the valet brought my 2002 s500 around to the front of the restaurant with no problems. They turned it off and when I was ready to leave, I hopped in, turned it over, nothing. The dash board lights up like a christmas tree giving me a Check Engine light, & ESP, BAS, Airmatic ERROR messages. I turned the automatic headlights off and tried it again, it started. I got it home, started it up the next day, no problem, ABS light on. Went to the grocery store, came out, wont start. And when I say "wont start" I mean won't crank or anything. Its like having your key in the II possition. I tried it a few times and nothing. So I left it there and walk 2 blocks home. I returned later to see if it just need some time to stop hating me and, it started! But wont come out of park. I replaced the battery, it started, I turned the wheels lock to lock to erase the codes, & then I turned it off. I tried to start it again and nothing. No crank. It cranks when it wants to and when it does, its stuck in park. Oh and one more thing...the A/C won't work. I noticed that the A/C display was fading on and off that first night on the way home from the restaurant. When the car decides to crank & turn over, the only thing that will get the A/C to do anything is if I hit the REST button. Isn't this only supposed to work when the cars off to push residual hot air off the engine during over heating? -My temp gauge reads normal btw. SO....with ALL that being said....PLEASE HELP!! My car has been in the Ralph's parking lot for almost a week & no one, not even the dealer can tell me what to do! Oh, no one will tow it for me because it wont come out of park...???? H.E.L.P. THANK YOU! |
I replaced the switch but was wondering if you need to really depress the brake pedal.
Also my brake lights wont illuminate. Would that indicate that the switch isnt making good contact?? Jim |
Just bought a 2003 model clk430 conv and had this problem from day one - very annoying. Having searched this forum for an answer I went and bought the stop light switch. I also had a fault message saying a bulb was faulty, but I couldn't see which one. I replaced the swith but the BAS, ESP, ABS lights came back on. Finally realised that the left side rear brake light had gone and replaced that too (don't know how I missed it). All fault messages have now cleared.
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I Just Cleared ABS Warning Light On 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet.
My CLK430 has been garaged since October (today is Jan. 1, 2008). My battery was dead so I jumped started it. Afterwards, I had two ABS Malfunction Messages. I read a posts on here talking about replacing a sensor, but I read a post on here that said to turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, then turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then straighten it out and that resets the code. I did it and my Malfunction Messages were gone!!! Try this before replacing a sensor. I did it twice and it worked. Costs=$0!!!!
:zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::zoom::z oom::zoom::zoom: |
I'll just do a copy-paste from another thread, makes it easier to search for:
Ah the horrors of changing battery on an MB. I recently bought a clk320, had some problems that where corrected by a new battery... which then gave me more problems Symptoms: BAS alarm on dashboard ABS alarm on dashboard Sidewindows that would come down, but not up, nomatter what i tried Sluggish drive Cause: Sometimes when changing the battery on a MB, system codes return errors, or are locked to certain values. Solutions: Reset the system codes How to: Start the engine Turn the wheel all the way to the left Turn the wheel all the way to the right Turn the wheel back to center position Turn of the ignition, pull out key Start the engine The above worked for me. I really thought the dealer was pulling my leg or something like that, but it truly worked. |
abs bas bullshiz!!!!
I have a 2002 Beautiful CLK430. Those freakin lights keep coming on. Dealer said I needed brakes, I got brakes... lights went off... for about a week... tires needed air... blew them up, lights went out. for about a month... I am going to try this! Thanks:nix:
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Just keep in mind that you may need a a switch, or you may have bad contacts on the switch causing it to "every now and then" light those lights.
I had it happen in May 07 once, as I hit the breaks. I stopped the car, took keys out, reinserted and restarted the engine and all went away. They did not appear till Dec 07, they happened about 3 or 4 times. Everytime they happen when I hit the breaks, and are cleared by restarting engine as above. I thought my sensor was going bad or had a broken contact finally as someone suggested above. So I thought next time I drive by the dealer I will pick up a switch. But they have yet to show up again (2 months later). I am guessing one day I will find time to pull that switch out, and see if it needs cleaning on the contacts. I read somewhere someone cleaned it and all was fine. So it is possible the above "steering wheel maneuvering" will take care of it, but also possible to be defective switch and/or contacts are dirty and need cleaning. |
I forgot to mention also that in Dec few times I had the gear stuck in PARK few times. Sometimes I will fix it by depressing the break 2 or 3 times, and it will now come out. Once (it was very cold night, 20 degrees) I had to push the button below the D to release the gear from Parking. All this and the fact that the problem went away, suggests the switch is not making contact sometimes.
This is an E320 2001. I will update when I get time to take a look at that switch. |
Thanks a lot!
This works! It saved me from the insane house! I had a dead battery on my S500, so I bought a new one. After installing the new battery, all the lights came on the dash and wouldn't go off. This worked! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by Wobert
(Post 2576741)
I'll just do a copy-paste from another thread, makes it easier to search for:
Ah the horrors of changing battery on an MB. I recently bought a clk320, had some problems that where corrected by a new battery... which then gave me more problems Symptoms: BAS alarm on dashboard ABS alarm on dashboard Sidewindows that would come down, but not up, nomatter what i tried Sluggish drive Cause: Sometimes when changing the battery on a MB, system codes return errors, or are locked to certain values. Solutions: Reset the system codes How to: Start the engine Turn the wheel all the way to the left Turn the wheel all the way to the right Turn the wheel back to center position Turn of the ignition, pull out key Start the engine The above worked for me. I really thought the dealer was pulling my leg or something like that, but it truly worked. |
Would my BAS/ESP/ABS lights be triggered by getting new rims? I had 19's on my car for about 2 years and I just bought a new set this weekend. Shortly after putting on the new set, the BAS/ESP/ABS lights came on. Took it to an indie shop recommended by MB techs at a stealership near me. He told me that my new rims could be the cause. I have been on the forums long enough to be confident that this is probably not the problem (since so many people have 19's on their cars w/o this issue coming up)
TSW Jarama 19X8 (front) and 19x9.5 (rear) Those are the wheels I have just purchased. Could anyone relate to this issue - did go through this problem b/c of new rims? I will mention to him the switch this thread seems to be talkin about. Thanks for any help anyone could give. PS - I start the car and the lights arent on. As soon as I press on the brakes the lights come on. When I have someone hold their foot on the brakes, the lights in the back dont come on either. |
1 Attachment(s)
Thanks a bunch for the post. This worked for me. My lady was getting the stuck shifter and all three malfunctions(esp,bas, abs) I got the part right away from the dealer for $18. When I removed the part I noticed the yellow button was compressed in.
the bad part: Attachment 384903 |
this is great!
I have had this problem on my car for the past year or so with my light always coming on while driving. it was very annoying. after reading this thread i went to my local dealer ship and bought the part for 27 dollars. i guess the price has gone up in the last couple years. but everything works great now. hopefully this works for a while. i love this forum!!!!:):):):):)
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hi guys I need your help soooo bad. My problem is ALOT more then just the sensor under the dash it's all connected with the damn ABS /ESP / BAS crap.... well here goes.... I replaced the damn ESP unit and it's STILL LEAKING. Well it turns out that my unit is leaking from these two ports under the bosch sensor. Can you guys tell me WTF is the problem because I'm sooo pissed now. I spent 300 dollars on this damn part. every time I press the brake pedal it leaks from these two ports. you can clearly see when you take the little caps off you can connect some special tool or something.
thanks guys http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...d/IMG00085.jpg |
I recommend that you take the part in to the dealer service dept and just ask them the question below. Most of the service areas are cool enought to take a couple minutes out if their day to answer a short question like yours. I am very interested in the fix for this so please keep us posted!!
Greg
Originally Posted by toymr2trd
(Post 3348789)
hi guys I need your help soooo bad. My problem is ALOT more then just the sensor under the dash it's all connected with the damn ABS /ESP / BAS crap.... well here goes.... I replaced the damn ESP unit and it's STILL LEAKING. Well it turns out that my unit is leaking from these two ports under the bosch sensor. Can you guys tell me WTF is the problem because I'm sooo pissed now. I spent 300 dollars on this damn part. every time I press the brake pedal it leaks from these two ports. you can clearly see when you take the little caps off you can connect some special tool or something.
thanks guys http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...d/IMG00085.jpg |
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