Tresx!!
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
CLK/ML
NVM
Found it. I didn't realize the prong end went into the heater housing and was looking for it for hours lol. Swapped it out and added a can of freon (bringing level to 14). I'm freezing my a$$ off! Thanks for the info!
Found it. I didn't realize the prong end went into the heater housing and was looking for it for hours lol. Swapped it out and added a can of freon (bringing level to 14). I'm freezing my a$$ off! Thanks for the info!
Super Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 558
Likes: 0
From: New York City
2000 CLK 430
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 592
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
CLK/ML
WIS for work info, EPC for parts info. Both DVD's can be purchased from Ebay. Plenty of parts dealers out there but because my free time is limited I just went to the stealer and paid $74 for the sensor and $43 bucks each(ouch) for 2 cabin filters, one for CLK one for ML. The ML filter was downright funky, full of leaves and ****. Replacement boosted the a/c output about 35 percent. I suggest everyone check their cabin filters. You don't need to buy new ones either, they can be cleaned.
Heres a pic to help you locate part:
This was shot looking straight up and is what you would see laying on your back.
For orientation:
The yellow circle is the top of the accel. pedal arm.
The red circle is the part in question.
I had looked for hours trying to find this sensor.
Once I knew that the prong end went inside the heater housing it took 3 seconds to locate and 30 seconds to change.
From WIS I found out that the new replacement part is coated and should resist moisture damage, apparently the leading cause of failure. Be aware that the new part also looks somewhat different than the original as TresX stated
Heres a pic to help you locate part:
This was shot looking straight up and is what you would see laying on your back.
For orientation:
The yellow circle is the top of the accel. pedal arm.
The red circle is the part in question.
I had looked for hours trying to find this sensor.
Once I knew that the prong end went inside the heater housing it took 3 seconds to locate and 30 seconds to change.
From WIS I found out that the new replacement part is coated and should resist moisture damage, apparently the leading cause of failure. Be aware that the new part also looks somewhat different than the original as TresX stated
Last edited by ThrillKill; Jun 18, 2007 at 09:41 AM.
