Shaking problem persists after maf & mouts
 

Alright so I had all the symptoms of a bad maf + CEL , and pulled the codes it gave me 0171 or 0173. I cleaned the maf and reset the codes. All was fine for 1 week before the symptoms came back (without CEL ) so I decided to buy a new maf and installed it myself and I still have the same problems.

-on drive idle is at 600-700
-idle on park is about at 1000
-when at a red light engine shakes ( not engine mouts or tranny mouts already changed)
-at red light idle fluctuates from about 600 to 700
-lack of power

So my question is do I have to get my computer reset after installing the new maf so it takes in charge there is a new maf ? or what else could it be? cleaning throttle? spark plugs?:smash:

your probably feeling your vibration from your harmonic balancer.

could be fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs...get them all checked...also if ur not using premium fuel it can significantly reduce performance and trigger a CEL...

What's your mileage? I would guess plugs....

I have about 140 miles , If its the plugs shouldt I have a CEL indicating misfire in one of the cylinders?

You Should Just Bring It To A Dealer And Have Them Look At It,, Might Be Something Simple,,

Well....yes. But at 140k miles, if you haven't done so, changing the plugs will make a world of difference. My other guess for the lack/loss of power and shaking at idle would be a vacuum leak somewhere....(but that would probably trigger a CEL as well......so my answer is...I don't know.....:nix:

whats the harmonic balancer? and its causes the car to shake? and troubles the idle?

You sure that MAF you got off Ebay for $50 was new? That's pretty cheap and there are people selling their bad/used/cleaned MAFs on Ebay as new. Also did you put in a Bosch MAF? I've heard that the cheap chinese imitation MAFs give people a lot of trouble too.

well here is the one I got

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=130185188376

it looked brand new and it smelled too lol

with a high idle like that it could be a vacuum leak, ck around the maf sensor for any leaks, i still think your best bet is to bring it to the dealer and let them diag your problem, all we can do is guess:nix: guessing can get expensive

Hi!
 

OMG! we have the exact same problem. everytime im on a red light the car shakes and poor power! i changed my fuel filter and so far i havent felt it shake severely like it used to... yet. i still gives me small vibrations which i can stand. try the fuel filter.

looks like you got a brand new, made in Germany, non-OEM part. The description says its generic and not Bosch. But who knows... That might be just as good. I doubt they would be selling new parts that don't work. I'm all for saving a buck. The crappy ones I heard of were the ones made in China.

I went to see my mechanic today , I have an appointement monday but till then he told me to try the fuel injection cleaner.... Ill see monday for the fuel filter hopefully its the fuel filter:rolleyes:

Mine did the same at about 104k and I had a guy listen to it and you could hear the miss. It was real hard to hear also. I replaced plugs, wires, and cleaned the fuel injection and it went away. Then 10k later the maf went out. No problems since. When starting it you could hear it make a ping noise and could barely hear the miss. Now it does not do this.

another symptom - electrical burning smell?
 

I just changed out my MAF as well and my shaking problem did not go away. Mechanic said there's no vacuum leak, wires & plugs are 2 months old, motor mount is solid, alternator is good, battery is new, fuel filter is new.

I admit, the car has driven better after getting these major tune up compenents replaced, BUT it's just not at 100% yet with this persistently annoying shaking at idle.

One more thing I notice is in the morning when I start the car for the first time i smell a brief electrical burning smell then I hear a light humming sound from under the car. Not sure if this is a major concern or what. Anyone have anything similar happen?

A bad crank position sensor isint suposed to triger the cel?

CEL = Check engine light

ok
 

Keep us posted if the Crank position sensor works so i can try it on mine so i don't have to get rid of my car. How much does the sucker cost anyways??? Thanks

what size eng have you got? if its a 6 cylinder it could be a coil or the ht leads to one of the cylinders in conjunction with the maf. It would be a good idea also to have the self adaptations reset.

after reading this, u guys make me think something is wrong with my car too... my car doesn't shake anymore.... but like every day when i start it up in the am, the car starts and the rpm is at about 1000, and then it is like that for like 30-45 seconds, than it drops down to about 600 ish and then i drive it.. someone told me i should not put the car in gear till the rpm drops but is that normal? what should the rpm be at when the car is parked but engine on? what does your guys stuff say when u start the car, i never thought anything was wrong with it. IS it really bad to put the car in gear right after you start it?? is the rpm at 1000 when i start it and then it drops down normal... weird.

I start my car everyday before I go to work, and it always is at a higher idle (1200 or so) and then after about 30 seconds it drops to 900-1000. So youre not alone there.

CLKFAN- does the crank position sensor, does that throw off a check engine light when it needs to be replaced? I have the shaking thing too, but not too bad yet, so I'm changing my plugs this weekend to see if that will help it.

It is normal for the cold start idle to be high then drop down.