Hi all, can someone provide a spark plug DIY with pictures? I have a 430 (V8) engine.

 

I put this link in the other thread, and again it's not a great writeup, but here's one if you're interested.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...ugs-wires.html

 

No pics, but if you've ever done one here goes...mines a 202, I don't foresee yours being much different (makes it a breeze if you having 'locking' extensions).

Tools/items you'll need BEFORE you start:

- Sixteen (16) Denso Spark plugs IK16, or Bosch Equivalent Platinum +4
- 3/8" ratchet w/socket release button
- 5/8" spark plug socket (3/8" size) w/insert (Sears and Home Depot has it)
- Extended reach pliers from Harbor Freight --> LINK
- Asst. Metric allen head & Torx wrench set for removal of coil packs
- Locking extension set 3/8" (told you about these Home Depot item #65502)
- 3/8" universal joint
- Permatex anti-seize compound
- Heavy blankets to protect the fenders
- Allow for approx. two hours of work with clean up

NOTE: ENSURE THE ENGINE IS COLD - NEVER REMOVE PLUGS ON A HOT/WARM ALUMINUM HEAD ENGINE

(1) Open hood all the way up - unlatch and carefully move to the furthermost position. Carefully remove the air cleaner housing and snorkels a.k.a. elephant snouts and place blankets on the fender you are working on.
(2) Blow off the area you'll be working on with an air compressor
(3) You may wish to remove the battery ground terminal
(4) Carefully remove the spark plug High-tension lead, I started at the closest plug to the radiator, on the pax side. Pull from the metal connector with the pliers NOT from the cable! You may wish to remove this cable from the coil pack - I removed the entire cable pack to clean up underneath.
(5) Blow out the hole where the spark plug resides so the trash that is in there now does not blow into your combustion chamber. Employ your 3/8" long extension and ratchet to remove the plug - inspect once removed.
(6) You can double check the gap at this time. Add a "dab" of anti-seize on the threads and place into the 5/8" socket w/extension and NO ratchet. At this point in time, using only your hand insert into the cylinder head and tighten by hand only!!! Once started and snug, I tightened up with the wrench - I only tightened maybe a 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I did not use a torque wrench, however it could not be more than 20 ft-lbs tops! Fasten the high-tension lead now, or you can wait until done with all plugs on that side.
(7) Proceed in similar fashion for the remaining seven on the pax side.
(8) For the driver's side you'll be okay for the first two. After that you'll need to remove the windshield washer bottle. I believe that is only retained by one 10mm retaining plastic bolt and you slide up and put aside. If the washer heater lines are too tight, you can disconnect those too.
(9) For the remaining - Blow out, remove, replace plug, anti-seize on threads, hand-tighten, torque down and fasten the high-tension lead.
(10) Replace the air cleaner housing.

Handy Notes...

For the plugs closest to the firewall you just need the shortest extension - you'll see why the locking extensions pay for themselves on these.

Ensure that the leads are properly and fully seated unto the spark plug.

I added a little dab of dielectric inside the tension housing to thwart corrosion.

Note the locking buttons on the extensions below - GET THESE!!! It'll make your job a whole lot easier, they're $20 at Home Depot (Item # 65502)