CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Howto: Cabriolet convertible top hydraulic system

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rating: Thread Rating: 5 votes, 5.00 average.
 
Old 03-30-2016, 07:26 PM
  #151  
SPONSOR
 
Top Hydraulics's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: On the beautiful Oregon Coast
Posts: 475
Received 38 Likes on 29 Posts
03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320 pano top, 95 Lorinser E320 Cabrio, Ferrari 360, Tesla X
Hello Kamyar Penhasi, welcome to the forum!

The title of your thread says "2005 Cabrio MB CLK320". If you have a model year '05, then it's a W209, and you should post in the W209 forum: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209-43/
There are lots of helpful folks on the W209 forum, as well...

Klaus
The following users liked this post:
Kamyar Penhasi (03-30-2016)
Old 05-01-2021, 10:34 PM
  #152  
Newbie
 
vader007's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
CLK320
Hi all, I have a rather crazy idea. I am considering converting the fully auto top into a semi-auto one. The car is not worth much, so it didn’t make sense dropping almost $1k to rebuild the cylinders. I studied the raise/lowering sequence, and as far as I can tell, the sensors which detect the position of the top components are independent of the hydraulic system. The system proceeds based on what the electrical switches detect. My idea is to substitute out the hydraulic power with my human power to move the top. The exception would be the tonneau cover, which is too difficult to simultaneously raise/lower with only one person, since the one person will be handling the top. (The tonneau rams aren’t leaking… yet) See attached pdf for parts I’m referring to.

Thus my proposal is to a) convert the top raise/lower switch (S84/10 in the pdf) into one that can be stick ON even though nobody is holding the button, probably via a three-way switch, so that the system proceeds while I’m outside lowering the top; and b) plug off all hydraulic lines at the pump except for the tonneau cover rams. (If the system errors out and stops, I could also maybe build an arduino controller to re-trigger the switch every second or something.)

Then, the opening sequence from the pdf would be modified as follows:

Stage 0: Use allen key and unlock top from front. Then flip the modified S84/10 switch from Neutral to Lower
Stage 1: Tonneau rams automatically partially raise tonneau to relieve tension on bows
S2: I manually raise the bow/rear glass until switch S84/15 sees the bow in fully upright position
S3: I already manually unlocked the roof in S0, so cylinder 2 is not needed. The switches register the position is correct for the next step
S4: Tonneau rams automatically fully raise the cover
S5: I manually lower the bow/rear glass into compartment.
S6: I continue to manually lower the top into compartment.
S7: I finish manually lowering the rest of the top into compartment.
S8: Tonneau rams automatically lower the cover
S9: Tonneau rams automatically pull cover completely closed. Now I go back into car and flip the switch back to Neutral.

I understand that using an always-on switch defeats the safety mechanism inherent in having a person manually pressing the button, maybe resulting in pinched fingers, but I am willing to take that risk. I’m a reasonably strong guy so I doubt the top will be too heavy to manually raise/lower.

Before I start ripping things apart, anyone have opinions on whether this will this even work? I just want to know from a technical standpoint (pls, no comments about “ruining the car” - I know it’s not morally right) Will the pump be blowing fuses all day? Is it even possible to plug off the lines?


Attached Files
Old 05-01-2021, 10:50 PM
  #153  
MBWorld Fanatic!
 
E55Greasemonkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Orbiting the planet
Posts: 4,479
Received 1,484 Likes on 984 Posts
This place is a joke.
Originally Posted by vader007
Hi all, I have a rather crazy idea. I am considering converting the fully auto top into a semi-auto one. The car is not worth much, so it didn’t make sense dropping almost $1k to rebuild the cylinders. I studied the raise/lowering sequence, and as far as I can tell, the sensors which detect the position of the top components are independent of the hydraulic system. The system proceeds based on what the electrical switches detect. My idea is to substitute out the hydraulic power with my human power to move the top. The exception would be the tonneau cover, which is too difficult to simultaneously raise/lower with only one person, since the one person will be handling the top. (The tonneau rams aren’t leaking… yet) See attached pdf for parts I’m referring to.

Thus my proposal is to a) convert the top raise/lower switch (S84/10 in the pdf) into one that can be stick ON even though nobody is holding the button, probably via a three-way switch, so that the system proceeds while I’m outside lowering the top; and b) plug off all hydraulic lines at the pump except for the tonneau cover rams. (If the system errors out and stops, I could also maybe build an arduino controller to re-trigger the switch every second or something.)

Then, the opening sequence from the pdf would be modified as follows:

Stage 0: Use allen key and unlock top from front. Then flip the modified S84/10 switch from Neutral to Lower
Stage 1: Tonneau rams automatically partially raise tonneau to relieve tension on bows
S2: I manually raise the bow/rear glass until switch S84/15 sees the bow in fully upright position
S3: I already manually unlocked the roof in S0, so cylinder 2 is not needed. The switches register the position is correct for the next step
S4: Tonneau rams automatically fully raise the cover
S5: I manually lower the bow/rear glass into compartment.
S6: I continue to manually lower the top into compartment.
S7: I finish manually lowering the rest of the top into compartment.
S8: Tonneau rams automatically lower the cover
S9: Tonneau rams automatically pull cover completely closed. Now I go back into car and flip the switch back to Neutral.

I understand that using an always-on switch defeats the safety mechanism inherent in having a person manually pressing the button, maybe resulting in pinched fingers, but I am willing to take that risk. I’m a reasonably strong guy so I doubt the top will be too heavy to manually raise/lower.

Before I start ripping things apart, anyone have opinions on whether this will this even work? I just want to know from a technical standpoint (pls, no comments about “ruining the car” - I know it’s not morally right) Will the pump be blowing fuses all day? Is it even possible to plug off the lines?
Sounds like you have a 209 cabrio not a 208. Either way, this sounds like a REALLY bad idea...it won't just pinch your fingers, but may remove them if caught in the steel hinges.
Old 05-01-2021, 11:03 PM
  #154  
Newbie
 
vader007's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
CLK320
Yes, sorry I just realized right after I posted but now I can't delete it. I also realize that maybe I might just be able to use the remote's roof open feature rather than hacking the switch...
The following users liked this post:
E55Greasemonkey (05-01-2021)
Old 05-17-2022, 09:53 PM
  #155  
Newbie
 
JAMD522's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Havre de Grace, MD
Posts: 4
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2003 CLK 430 Cabriolet
03 CLK 430 Same Problems Today!

Originally Posted by Zundfolge
Thank you for all of the pointers! Hope one of you knows what's wrong with mine. The top was going slow and the pump making a sound to make me think it was low on fluid. I took the cover off and confirmed, it was low. I filled the reservoir with some Febi I had laying around, but didn't think it looked right. It looked dark in there. I poured some into the lid and could see floaters. So I used an external pump, emptied the reservoir, then took it off of the pump to clean it. I unbolted the pump from the floor just enough to give me good access to the screws on the bottom of the reservoir.

I filled it back up and bolted it back down. Tightened the pressure screw as I had to move the top around a little.

It doesn't work now.

I have cycled it manually (with pressure screw open, and it is now closed). I swapped the two relays in the truck. All fuses are ok. I swapped out the relay with the one from O'Reilly's as well. I jumped the pins on the wiring harness and the pump came on (kinda quiet, tho). I pressed the soft top switch down until the red light turned off. When I pick up on the switch, it turns red then begins to blink. The roll bar does not go up or down, but I can hear something working. When I open the top with the handle, the windows go down.

Any ideas? It worked fine until I did the above.
Hey everyone! First, let me say thank you to everyone contributing to this thread and this forum.
I recently swapped out my Rear Bow and Case Cover Locks (yesterday), and refilled my Hydraulic Pump. Also tightened the flathead screw within the white cone.
I'm currently having the same problems as Zundfolge was having.
When I initiate the top down sequence, I hear the sounds of the mechanics working (clicks and clunks and whirrs), but the rear bow doesn't open, nor does the Tonneau. The console switch flashes instead of staying red constantly.

When I try to "close" the top, the "task complete" single tone chimes, however, nothing happens / has happened.
IF I try to lower the rear headrests (currently locked in the up position) I also hear the same motor sounds, but again, no movement.
I'm going to replace the pump relay tomorrow as I have read through this thread twice and feel like this may help; but I can't find a response to the quoted post from Zundfolge. Is anyone able to offer any insight into this? Thanks y'all!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 


You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 5 votes, 5.00 average.

Quick Reply: Howto: Cabriolet convertible top hydraulic system



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:24 AM.