Ok mate that does not sound to good and is beyond my skills because I read the post and replies you already made and I was you I would take it to the dealer, perhaps you can try many other thins replacing this and that but at the end of the day if not knowing 100% what it is it can end u costing you a lot..
I dont want to be the one making you buy parts that is not necessary and that may not fix your problem.
you even replaced the disc´s and brake pads bleeded the system and now I dont see any other option left than take it to the dealer, if you want to get rid of the Wanring Light and if it keeps stayin on there might be another important issue..
I remember I had something similar was the hand-brake light on my old BMW E39 after the dealer replaced the shocks when I came to pick it up the brake warning light stayed on after engine was swichted on and it was apparently a loose connection in the dash some where behind the cluster.. they have never touched it but happent anyways and all he did was pull the wires a bit issue solved..

Is what I mean sometimes it can be so simple thing but we get blind and focus the wrong place but you very well and has done all you could...

dont waste any more time and money on this mate take it to the dealer let him find the problem, perhaps they hear about it before and knows excaclty what it is.. Simpley ask them first what it might be post back here what he say and if he starts talking about the stuff you allready replaced just let him know you did and see what he says before you order a time for a full trouble shoot..

Is the best advice I can give at this point all because of what you have done yourself so far and follow other good peoples good advices...

a huge thumbs up to everyone on this thread

 

my abs light turns off when im driving at say 30mph,turn the engine off (whilst driving) then when i turn the engine on it all works apart from bas and esp.please help me !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Doesnt sound so good mate!
From what I know and experience mine can come on and tbe ESP goes off all of a sudden but havent seen it for long time now thank God for that! But what I know is if it stays on all times you should have the car checked properly for worn disc/brakepads be sure these are ok if you know these are ok then stop the car
1 Off the engine
2 pump the brake pedal 3 times you will feel it getting harder as you pump, on the 3 pump keep and hold the brake pedal down while you turn the engine on, when the engine comes on you will feel the pedal fall a bit, it must NOT fall to much then something is wrong but just a bit, with engine on turn your steering all the way to the left / all the way to the right. Check you ESP ABS again...

Hope it helps else I would go to dealer get it checked mate...
it sucks if the ESP doesnt work specially up here where I live right now we got 4 meter snow, ice and - 21 Degrees hehe so the ESP is much velcome :-)

 

haha thank you very much, unfortunately the advice hasnt worked! i wish i new how to solve this a differrent way, today my tyres locked up.with the abs light off the abs works and its the same for the other light.i should also add that the discs have been changed and hasnt sorted problem. please reply with help clk 350 coupe or any one
thanks

 

Get your brake light switch checked even this little issue can cause it..
As i said try mechanic specially since everything else failed..
A faulty switch somehwere can be a cheap repair but also an expensive one... only faith can decide huuh..

No really try the brake light switch and try search forum for that ..


hope it sorts or somebody else reply im dried out for advices

 

thanks alot for yourhelp, btw do the brake lights work when the switch is broke because mine do (left, one in window, but right is blown ) if so i will go ahead with it. thank you very much for you time . if anyone else has any advice i would much apreciate it

 

1)Make sure all tire sizes are the same .
2)Use brake cleaner to clean rotors and brakes
3)Replace battery
4)Get a new brake light switch
5)Turn stearing wheel All the way to left and then all the way right .About 4x's .
6) check all light Bulbs
7) make sure ESP under the hood is connected .
Look for a silver/metal square that says ESP OR BAS
under the hood and check that conection .

If non of the above helps then TAKE IT TO DEALER
and get it scaned on STAR .

My ESP ABS light is permanently on now .
Before it was just comming on ONLY after 60 plus miles
Per Hour (65mph) on the Highway .
NOW ITS PERMANENTLY ON BUT
IT DRIVES PERFECT .
atleastnow that it is permanently on , its not
Locking my brakes and making the car loose horse power . (I HAVE 19" custom wheels with
235/35/19 in front
255/40/19 in rear
AND I READ THAT THE DIFERENT IN SIZE TIRES
IS MAKING MY SPEED SENSORS GO CRAZY
THERE FOR ABS ESP LIGHTS COMMING ON .
(Changing rear tires tommorow )
To 255/35/19 .

 

There's nothing wrong with your brake switch or brakes or controllers. a short in the Airbag wiring harness, which causes malfunctions when the telescopic steering is extended to it's limits a few times.

Seems like this causes tears and shorts circuits in the wiring harness, that drop circuit current, but does not blow the fuse. There are discussions on the web about smoke coming out of the steering columns, but mine hasn't reached that point.

I found out several mysterious issues associated with this wiring harness problem including sensor malfunction, airbag popping open, horn going off when you turn the wheel, dash lights dimming, speed sensor malfunction, brake, ABS, ESP, and other weird dash alert problems.

There's a relatively quick work around that can at least temporarily fix it by simply finding the right steering position. The right way to do it though would be to take off the steering wheel, the shroud around the column and taping up the stripped or shorting wires; this would take some work, which most people don't want to mess with.

It's a shame Mercedes doesn't even have a recall for this and the Mercedes stealerships come up with a zillion and one things to change or reset that doesn't fix the problem... they make lots of $$$$$$$$$ out of this changing brakes, sensors, dash cluster, etc. Why fix it?

Every time the telescopic steering is at extreme settings, it shorts out the wiring harness in the steering column. You may notice some of LED dots in the digits of the dash are missing or a quick yellow flash goes off when you pull up or down your steering. You may even hear a pop or loud clunk when you move he steering to the utmost extents inward or outward.

You may have even noticed your problem began shortly after you found the shroud around the steering column started wobbling possibly due to pushing the telescopic steering all the way toward the dash.

The work around is to not push the steering column to extreme extents, either too high up or too far down... or too far from the dash or too close to it.

I found the best position for my steering is about around 1/2 inch before it gets to the very highest vertical position and around 3/4 of the way telescoped out. You'll need to try different positions, but start from there.

By the way try turning the shroud left and right and up and down as you telescope the steering away from the dash... it may snap in place and stop wobbling. I'm really disappointed in Mercedes Benz as they did not correct this problem for 11 years! Good luck and hope this stops your frustration.

 

This is the CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets] section

these models only got telescopi sterring wheel in and out. Not up and down..

 

You might want to consider the work around regardless of your model having up and down movement and having the telescopic steering. Your model may be using the same wiring harness. The problem with the wiring harness is that it is too short. I'm taking my wheel out, today to see if I can fix it. I'll let you know how it went.

 

but of course, sure sorry for that was not what I mean mate..
Wish you good luck but for me is family time today...

Next week lowering my MB just got my H&R springs yaaaahoo
Good luck with it..

I just wonder why it happens when I never have touched the telescopic?
Tink I done that 1 time, but was to take out the instrument cluster...
Anyways cya later..

 

Enjoy your time off with the family. I took the Steering wheel off, pull out the odometer panel, and looked at all of the wiring. What a freaking mess! I've worked on a lot of cars and seen their wiring harness, but MB really disappointed me. A couple of the wires to the dash were squished between the dash clamps and partially cut. God knows how the cars's been working all these years. I have a 99 E320 Wagon with 73K miles and it is already falling apart. I inspected all of the rest of the wiring and found out wiggling some of them made the display information flicker and a couple of times brought up the ABS, EOS service light errors. Unfortunately I couldn't narrow it down to where the source of the problem is and gave up. I got really concerned about the poor wiring harness design and routing. I put the car back together and traded it in for a Honda Accord. Seeing what I saw, I don' think I'll be buying another MB any time soon. Really Mercedes Benz... shame on you. Going from the best engineering in the world to last minute spit together work!

 

"Going from the best engineering in the world to last minute spit together work! "

Did you buy the car new or perhaps someone before you or a lame MB service tech or indy had the the thing apart and didn't put it back together correctly? Don't know that I would point a finger at the oldest car maker in the world for a bad wiring issue.

 

Have a 2003 CLK320, does anyone know the location on the care for the ESP/SPS module. I have already replaced the abs pump assembly.

 

I had replaced the lower right control arm on my 2002 C230 and had the EPS Workshop Visit error message come on immediately after. I got an alignment done the following day but the error message continued to appear. I tried the following without success:

- left-right-left wheel lock
- adjusting the seat and steering wheel depth and height
- reset the settings on the dashboard
- turning the EPS button on and off
- turning the EPS off, resetting the settings and turning EPS back on while driving (it worked at the time but then reappeared after turning the car off and then back on)

I then decided to wash the car because I noticed a lot of brake dust on my rims (I recently replaced by brake pads). I also took the car out for a 30 minute drive. After driving for 30 minutes, I turned the car off and then back on. The error message had disappeared.

 

i have esp failure stop signs to change pads and speed senor in front but still on i need help.

 

I had this problem on my CLK 320. The fault was a poor connection at the brake pedal, I replaced the brake light switch but the problem remained, so I took the old switch and used a cleaner on the connections and that seems to have cured the fault. these electrical faults seem to be common on older Mercs, I put mine down to the fact that it doesn't get used that often, so the electric connections become fragile, I think that they just need to be used.

 

Hi there, I been having the same issue with my C63, after I have read many discussions about this common issue. Since I got my car I have had this problem twice, the first time I wiped off with a dry rug the speed sensor on both of the front tires, then I turned the steering wheell all the way to the left and all the way to the right, after this lights dissapeared . The second time that the lights whent on, I did the same thing , lights disappered .

I was curiouss , so I took the car to MB dealer, for some reasons they call me the next day AFTER i dropped the car the day before early in the morning . They told me that the ESP CONTROL MODULE read failure , the part by itself is $1400 and to be installed $476 more, so I declined the work and fiugred out first what should be the right issue.

Right know my car drives fine, I haven't gotten the lights on again, BTW when these light comes up, the car drives rough, specially the steering wheel.

 

Welcome c63Vil, This is an old long winded thread but I am sure it helps a lot of people when this problem occurs.

I had a shorted seatbelt harness one time and experienced these woes.

Disconnect battery, follow through with ESP, SRS, BAS reset procedures which include engine running doors closed, brake applied. turn the steering wheel from stop to stop. lights will disappear.

If the fault returns while driving then there is an issue to be dealt with by a MB technician. can be steering sensor or wheel sensor, few other problems but the majority of problems stay inherent.

I get a different fuel trim when the CEL is on, Plenty of power but poor quality. possible ECU file to go closer to limp mode when the car gets a hiccup. The SRS modules on my W124 are like new but there is no network to fail on that model as well.

A search in the C63 forum might yield stronger results.
Cheers, Gator

 

I have a 2000 C230K, and I've gotten the BAS/ESP lights, and replaced the brake light switch, to no avail. I also have no cruise control, and the turning of the steering wheel to the left and right 4x did not help at all either. The engine performance is being impacted, as its running quite a bit rougher than usual.


Anyone have any other idea of what the problem could be? What else can I do myself, besides take it to the dealership or a mechanic to have it looked at. I haven't taken it to an Autozone/O'Reilley's to have them read the codes for me or not. The BAS/ESP light lit up randomly for no real reason after we had gotten our first bout of icy weather. Could that be a speed sensor? I haven't had the alignment checked on the car in a long while either, and can do that too. I plan on taking it to get the oil changed so Ill have them check the alignment as well to see if that might fix the issue.

 

Welcome to the forum Strouda, since the reset process didn't clear the fault I would recommend that you have the codes read by a Mercedes Indie or dealer before you start throwing parts at the problem. Autozone/O'Reilleys will use a OBDII scanner which you can purchase yourself (great tool for every DIY to have) to pull codes, but they don't have the Mercedes STAR/DAS/Xentry ability to give you a full diagnosis. Good Luck!!

 

The brake switch is linked to the ABS and Cruise and if the switch is faulty then it will shut down the other features.
The brake switch in my experience needs to be a genuine part and I've had ones fail from the likes of ECP and other places, so go to the dealer as its cheap.
The cruise is also govened by the speed sensors on the wheels, therefore if you have odd size tyres or wear, it will cause the cruise to stop working properly. The ABS is linked to the speed sensors too, so worth checking if there might be some dirt on the end of the sensor first.

Start with the brake switch, start the car and see if the ABS/ETS lights stay off, then watch the dashboard everytime you press the brake to see if this triggers the fault.
If so change the brake switch first and go from there.

 

I've already replaced it and it didn't resolve the issue. Also replaced the associated fuses within the fuse box in the engine compartment, but nothing has helped so far. Reading online, indicators say its either a speed sensor, accelerometer, or something else. Also, the error doesn't come up until after i press on the brake.

 

Okay, so if you've got a genuine Mercedes brake switch let move on. Is connection to the switch okay? If so, check each speed sensor for obvious faults and if possible test them electrically.

 

I know this is an old thread but anyhow... I accidentally pulled the ABS fuse when I was troubleshooting something totally unrelated. I put it straight back but since then the ABS warning light is stuck on. I suppose it needs to be reset somehow because I'm sure there's no actual fault. Anyone know what the trick is? CLK320 2000 W208. Thanks!