JimPap

How tight should you tighten the oil filter cover?

This is on a 2008 C300.

Sorry for being in the wrong forum, but everybody is still asleep over in the correct forum.

Serndipity

Not sure if the filtering arrangement is the same however, for a CLK320, the oil filter cap should be torqued to 25Nm.

When I change oil/filter, I just tighten the filter cap to where it's a tad more than snug.

The key to prevent leaks is to make sure the cartridge is fully seated and install the large O ring in the grove just below the caps lip (not up against the lip).

JimPap

Our filter caps much be a little different.

What appears to be the correct position for the large o ring is a grove next to the the lip.

Are you saying that your grove is further away from the lip, not right next to it?

UPDATE:

Thanks for putting that idea into my head about the groves.

Looking at the instruction sheet, it clearly shows the o ring going into the second grove. Since the instructions showed the grove just below the lip also, I'm satisfied that the instructions aren't for another model car.

I'm not sure how I did it 8 months ago.

Thanks for the help!!!

Serndipity

When the O ring is in the grove, there will be a small space between the O ring and the cap's lip.

Also be sure the lube all the O rings with some oil before installing them.

I find it easier to add the new oil through the filter opening.

I also pull off the plastic engine cover (very easy to do) when I change the oil. With the engine running, this makes it easy to verify that there is not a leak.

JimPap

Yeah, that's the one where it should be. I originally had put it in the one above that one next to the lip. That explains the gusher. It was kind of interesting to see the gasket get pushed out of the way and the pencil size stream of oil come shooting out of the car. Hit some ladders I have stored in the corner. The one thing you don't want oil on are ladder steps and we nailed them.

Wonder why MB even has that last grove next to the lip.

I let the car run in the garage for a while before taking out on the road for 5 miles. No leaks!!!

Thanks again for the help.

Serndipity

If you had a gusher that was quickly spotted and corrected, you probably will not need to do the following.

Typically, when the large O ring is improperly installed, there is an undetected slow oil leak (which is why I pop off the engine's top cover to inspect for leaking) that drips down the side of the engine and collects in the large splash shield underneath the front of the car.

After the leak is corrected, wipe down any engine/ suspension components bearing oil and remove the splash shield and clean it of any accumulated oil (otherwise the pool of oil will continue slowly exit through the shield's drip hole onto the ground for days).

wesrick

I realize this is a really late reply, but I just had this same problem.

It was from the oil filter o-ring. Apparently the one that comes with some of them is really soft and squeezes out after it has been running. Very frustrating. The oil continued to flow down the engine, and then back to the back of the engine, then flying onto one of the catalytic converters and burning off giving a frustrating oil burning smell.

Fixing that little o-ring (replacing with a new, good one), and then cleaning off the engine with break cleaner fixed it up, good as new.