CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Steering Gear Box play

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Old 12-14-2009, 07:47 PM
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2000 CLK430
Steering Gear Box play

My turn to ask a question now LOL.

My steering gear box has excessive play causing my car to drift left or right and its starting to really get on my nerves now. Its especially dangerous when I drive on the left lane close to a concrete wall and hit a crack or uneven road. I have replaced the following already and it seemed to help a bit but the problem is still there: new front wheel inner and outer bearings, tightened the 3 steering box bolts on the driver side wheelwell, new steering wheel shock, and even replaced the front tires!! I took it to the dealership to see what they thought it was and they told me that the steering gear box needed to be replaced. They moved the steering wheel side to side kinda fast and there was a knock right next to where the 3 gear box bolts are located.

My question now: Is there a way to tighten up the gear box by tightening anything else up? I know that you can do this to a different car but I have yet to see anything on the W208 Steering box.

Also, has anyone had the steering box rebuilt and if so by whom? The stealership quote me over 2 thousand to fix the steering box.

Any info on how to fix this as cheaply as possible would be greatly appreciated!!

Greg
Old 12-14-2009, 10:52 PM
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2001 CLK55AMG, 2006 E350 4matic, BMW '79 E24 turboed '91E34 turboed
Have you taken it to a decent alignment shop? If you put it up on jackstands, is there any play somewhere else? On bimmers anyhow, the rec ball boxes are really durable and the last place to look. There's a set screw with lock nut on top of them (bimmers). Usually only makes it harder to turn though..sounds like some kind of steering arm play to me. MB noobie here, tryin to help...

Last edited by douginky; 12-14-2009 at 10:58 PM.
Old 12-14-2009, 11:27 PM
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The best thing to do is to buy a rebuilt one and have it installed by a good shop.

You can buy a rebuilt one with yours as a core for about $300 and the labor is about $100 then you have the alignment after with a price that varies at every shop.

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ell=1&oi=spell

I'm going to be doing this shortly with a local shop here but I'm going to replace everything all over again like the entire drag link with all tie rods and a new steering dampener and a new U Joint to go along with the steering box. If this doesn't fix the problem I'm going to drive my car off of a cliff.

Last edited by CLK FAN; 12-14-2009 at 11:32 PM.
Old 12-15-2009, 09:20 AM
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I replaced the entire drag link and tie rods about a year and a half ago and just replaced the steering dampener a couple days ago as well.

I think I may have to take the same path and replace it with a rebuilt one for 300!! Can you PLEASE try and take some pics on how to do this replacement? DIY!!

Greg
Old 12-15-2009, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by douginky
Have you taken it to a decent alignment shop? If you put it up on jackstands, is there any play somewhere else? On bimmers anyhow, the rec ball boxes are really durable and the last place to look. There's a set screw with lock nut on top of them (bimmers). Usually only makes it harder to turn though..sounds like some kind of steering arm play to me. MB noobie here, tryin to help...
Yes, I had it aligned by a good local shop for 90 bucks and then ended up taking it to the dealer so that they could work their majic on it. They stated the alignment was DEAD ON and of course still charged me the hour labor. I think I just need to get it replaced due to the noise I hear from the gear box and the play I have at the steering wheel. Thanks!!

Greg
Old 01-14-2010, 06:14 PM
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Well it's been a minute since I been on here, hope all is well.

Greg, I'm having the same issue as you, as anybody on this board. Sam told me about the problem and I was already investigating this problem since last year trying to figure out wtf is wrong with this car. Last year I got the entire drag link replaced, and got it aligned figured that'd fix the problem.. but it didnt, infact it kinda made it worse. So I knew it wasn't the tires, it wasn't the drag link, nor the idler arms, or the bushings, or the bolts.. it all came down to the steering gearbox. I took it down to my local dealership and just flat out said "look I just wanna figure out what this problem is with my car and go from there, no bs." So the guy was cool took my car for a quick spin and he said yup, it's your gearbox it's missing a tooth. So we went back to his office and he further explained to me and what he said made sense (the guy was chill and knew what he was talking about) if there is a missing tooth in the gearbox the car is trying to correct itself with that tooth so it causes it to slip. So my guess, is the previous owner who sold this car to me hit a curb changed the wheels and never told me but at that time the gearbox wasn't worn out so the problem continued to worsen as I drove it more.

But that's just me and my problem, I dunno if you guys may of had a similar issue. I don't know how long these steering gearbox are suppose to last or how sensitive they are. If I were to make a close guess about these things I'd say they are very sensitive.
Old 01-14-2010, 07:07 PM
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I have pretty much changed everything out on mine as you have done as well including new tires, draglink, ball joints, steering shock (stablilizer bar) and a new alignment and recently Brand new wheel bearings on the front as well.

The car has tightened up quite a bit but its not as tight as its used to be but it definitely doesnt travel around alot like it used to. I dont think mine has a missing tooth, it just feels like it has worn down a bit and it still makes noise when I shake the steering wheel back and forth. I do have plans to replace it but it won't be until I get back from overseas next year.

Greg

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