H&R lowering spring
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I can't comment on whether you'll be okay without the camber kits, but I will point out that the advertised drop amounts are not always exact: sometimes you get more, sometimes you get less. Luckily, you can fine tune it somewhat with the spring pads (a.k.a., spring isolators), which come in different amounts of thickness and are easy to purchase. In choosing a spring, there are other things to consider besides the advertised drop: rate, progressive vs. linear, quality/reputation, etc.
I see that you're new to the forum, and to the car. I know it can be exciting to start modding it, but you might want to think about:
- Spend a few nights searching this forum and others for things that you're considering doing. Lots of great info in the stickies as well as Marcus's site.
- These are older cars. Before you start changing things, you might want to drive it a while to make sure it doesn't need any immediate maintenance/repair. Not cheap on these cars, and can hurt even more if you just dropped some coin on upgrades and find out you need to fix something else. Even if it doesn't need anything, at least you will get a better idea of what upgrades are more important to you after some more time behind the wheel.
- Not all modifications will make the car better. You have a really nice, well engineered car. Sometimes you find something that's a no-brainer, win-win deal that makes the car better with no downside. Speaking from experience, not everything will work out that way. Sometimes you end up having to do a lot more than you bargained for to get things "right," even for a mod that started out really simple. For example, changing springs alone will often lead to changing shocks sooner than you realized.
Whatever you decide to do, enjoy it. Even though there are many tempting options right at your finger tips, you'll be happier by making sure you research and plan your upgrades. In the meantime, if your car is in good working order, it's already solid, sexy, and way fun.
Regards,
e harmon

and i got my HR from www.tirerack.com
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Just my 2 cents.
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I to was extremely concerned with the ride being to rough. I even called H&R and they said it will ride like stock but with the added performance. They were right. It is not a rough ride at all. It corners better and best yet, no front end dive when I brake hard and no rear squat when I accelerate hard.
I don't have any pics yet. I'll take one and post it. I can say that before I put the springs on I could fit 4 fingers bbetween he tires and fender. Now I can only fit 2. It really looks sweet but not slammed. You will truly enjoy them.
I didn't really look around for price. I paid about $270 on tirerack. I think I saw them as cheap as $240 on Yahoo shopping.
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Think and research long and hard before you pull the trigger on mods.
Here's your options:
1.) Don't buy springs or anything -- then you don't have buy a camber kit!
2.) Buy springs, no kit. You will wear the inside tread like nothing and go through rear tires like no one's business.
3.) Buy springs, buy a camber kit -- do it right. You'll spend about as much on a kit as you would for another set of rear rubber (and rest assured you will need new tires soon w/o adj camber arms) in a few months.
Last edited by dlbehrns; Jun 10, 2010 at 12:16 AM.
If the car is lowered significantly you may need additional toe adjustment as well, and there are limited options for this... there is a factory eccentric bushing available but it's ungodly expensive. The K-Mac camber kit includes adjustable toe bushings too, it's just the squeaking noise that I didn't like (due to the poly bushings), which is why I removed the K-Mac from both of my cars. You also have to be careful when adjusting camber via K-Mac as it affects ride height! Also, the K-Mac is a huge nuisance to install on the LCA's. BT, DT. The K-Mac is better suited to race applications, IMO, unless the noise doesn't bother you - some folks don't notice it.

Here's your options:
1.) Don't buy springs or anything -- then you don't have buy a camber kit!
2.) Buy springs, no kit. You will wear the inside tread like nothing and go through rear tires like no one's business.
3.) Buy springs, buy a camber kit -- do it right. You'll spend about as much on a kit as you would for another set of rear rubber (and rest assured you will need new tires soon w/o adj camber arms) in a few months.

Bro, i was wearing tires like crazy from inside.and i had to go with new set every 2 months max..
u get can camber from Kmac.. they are in Australia, pick the phone up and call em, they have strong accent, LOL

u will save labor if u install em all at once, BIG TIME and Yes K mac will take 5-7 hours to install..
yes it does bring the tires close to the fender very SEXYYYYYY

yes they do make lil noise for first month or two max and once the poly bushing gets break into, u are set to go.
To reduce the noise first two months, spray grease and w40 and it will drop majorly and next thing u know, no more noise and eventually it will go away.
good luck
Last edited by big_mike1979; Jun 10, 2010 at 11:07 PM.

Lowering aka camber is needed = FACT.. trust me on this
I lowered it first time with NO camber and was a mistake and i paid twice for labor and 3 times for tires, go figure
To reduce the noise first two months, spray grease and w40 and it will drop majorly and next thing u know, no more noise and eventually it will go away.

i went to AUto part and grabbed some grease.. i dont recall since i dont have the bottle anymore or use grease anymore since Kmac is fine now.. But i do remember the grease was Green (color wise).. go to auto part and ask em .
I might be able to get the name 2mmorow if u want me too..
ps: there is couple more member here that used grease and it went away as well
Last edited by big_mike1979; Jun 11, 2010 at 12:28 AM.
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