Hey guys/gals,

Has anyone performed a shorty header or exhaust manifold install? I'd like to install my own headers, but I'm not sure if there's room without lifting the engine (as the WIS recommends).

Any DIY notes or photos? Thanks!

 

I had a local mechanic do it and he didn't have to lift the engine which was a 320. you probably have less room on the 55. There are instrucitons out there on the forum somewhere that talks about the manifold studs. If they come out of the block when removing them you have to remove the nut and re-torque them back into the block before installing the header. definitely use new oem gaskets. they are cheap so don't skimp by using after market crap. there is also a tightening pattern. It's not center out like one might think but if I remember it is back/firewall to front. I honestly don't remember but there is a DIY out there somewhere.

 

Thanks man! Definitely using OEM gaskets. I appreciate the note about torquing pattern, i'll look further into that.

 

I got some tips that I can post as soon as I can find them.

 

• Remove all the nuts from the studs before reinstalling them. This is because of the flange thickness difference (1/4" to 3/8"). The back cylinders are common to have the studs come out when the manifolds are removed.

*The factory exhaust manifold studs are already a high-carbon hardened steel; this is the same material that ARP uses.

• The key lies in the order in which the nuts are tightened: Always tighten the bolts starting at the back of the engine, moving forward- start with the flange closest to the firewall, tighten both nuts, then move forward one flange, tighten the two nuts, etc. The nuts should be torqued to 20nm or 15 lb/ft.

*Don't tighten all of the top nuts first, then all of the bottom nuts next. Torqueing from the back to the front will ensure the sealing surface of the header flange is square to the cylinder head on every runner as it is torqued down.

• After the headers are installed, run the car for twenty (20) minutes and then let cool to ambient temperature.

The factory exhaust manifold studs are already a high-carbon hardened steel; this is the same material ARP.

What you need to do is this:

Loosen all of the manifold nuts- no need to take them off, just loosen them 7-8 thread to where the header will move around slightly. The key lies in the order in which the nuts are tightened: Always tighten the bolts starting at the back of the engine, moving forward- start with the flange closest to the firewall, tighten both nuts, then move forward one flange, tighten the two nuts, etc. -Don't tighten all of the top nuts first, then all of the bottom nuts next- this is likely why you have an exhaust leak at the head. Torqueing from the back to the front will ensure the sealing surface of the header flange is square to the cylinder head on every runner as it is torqued down.

 

Thanks Ghost! How much room is there to work? Is it doable just by lifting the vehicle and removing the coil-packs? I'm trying to avoid fooling with the engine mounts.

 

Thanks Ghost! How much room is there to work? Is it doable just by lifting the vehicle and removing the coil-packs? I'm trying to avoid fooling with the engine mounts.

 

Is it doable just by lifting the vehicle and removing the coil-packs?

That is exactly what my mechanic did but I don't see why you need to lift the car other than to get to the bolts at the end of the manifold where it connects to the down tube.

 

hey da_guitarist, did you ever end up installing your own headers? I'm thinking of doing the same.

 

Ha, no they're buried in a storage unit. I've changed jobs and moved 3 times since then

And I'm getting married and buying a home both this weekend. Been a busy year!!

 

Nice, congrats. It doesn't look like it will be too bad; I think if I remove the washer fluid and coolant reservoirs and coils I should have just enough room.

 

Where did you get your short headers? Just curious.{;o)

 

Ghetto eBay ones Worth a shot to see if it sounds/looks better.

 

I just got my "ghetto ebay" short tube headers today, and I can't wait to slap 'em on. I was hoping to pick up gaskets at the dealer, but no luck so I'll have to wait for UPS.

Anyway, I noticed an issue with one of ports. Where the takeoff from the cylinder head meets the main pipe, there is a bit of a lip. It seems the hole was cut a little too small before the pipe was welded. I don't think it's a big deal, but do you think it's worth trying to grind it down a bit? I'm a bit worried about doing more harm than good, so I'd rather do nothing, but if you think it'll be a problem, let me know.

By the way, sorry for hijacking guitarist. Ghost's instructions sound pretty straightforward, but I'll let you know if I learn any nuances relevant to our 55s.

 

that is definitely going to interfere with exhaust flow. I would grind it out. Just make sure you don't get the metal too hot. Granted, it gets hot with the exhaust gases but I'm takin red hot will weaken the metal.

 

probably will interfere with the flow some (reduce the speed of exhaust exit)

if you grind it some, make sure not to damage or risk the weld.

Post pics of the install if you can!!

 

I was able to grind it down a fair bit, and it looks a lot smoother. I'm hoping to have time to get 'em on this weekend; I'll have my camera.

 

So you think it can be done without unbolting/lifting engine? Just coilpack and car lift? If so, I might jump on it before March is up.

I got frustrated with the $500+ install offers for these $250 test run headers.

 

I'm just going by what dlbehrns said. If it requires more than that, I won't be doing it myself.

I was going to change my spark plugs anyway, so once I have all the coil packs out, I should have a better view to see if it's doable.

 

I gave the install a shot this weekend while I was changing spark plugs. The first header (passenger side) went in with no problem. I ran into some trouble, however, with the two bottom middle nuts on the drivers side exhaust manifold. They were both frozen pretty solid with rust/corrosion. I tried penetrating spray, a propane torch, and plenty of elbow grease, but they wouldn't budge. I ended up putting it back together with one aftermarket header (passenger side), and one stock manifold (driver's side), so it was half a success. I thought about trying to cut the nuts off, but I'm worried I'd end up having to drill out the studs, and tap new holes. I found a nut splitter online, so I've ordered it, and hopefully I'll have the second header on by next week.

Aside from the two stubborn nuts, the install was pretty easy. Unbolting the brake and washer fluid reservoirs and moving them to the side will give you a lot more room to work; you don't need to drain the fluid from either. Other than that, use PLENTY of pentrant spray (see broken socket below), and unbolt the cats first (13mm bolts accessible from under the car) so the manifold's not flopping around while you try to reach them. A couple of the studs came out with the nuts, no big deal, just replace them before putting the nut back on. Also, you'll need a swivel bit and long extension for the cats, and it's tough to get a socket on the nuts on the bottom manifold on the driver's side, so I used a box wrench.

Here are some pics (don't forget to remove all stowaway rodents from the splash shield!)

 

I added a DIY to the w208 "How To" thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ml#post5063328

 

Where did you get those headers and how much did you pay?

 

I got them on ebay for ~$375 including shipping.

As I mentioned, a minor amount of grinding was required to smooth the inside of one of the tubes, but now they look pretty smooth inside. They're also a total of ~5lbs lighter than the factory manifolds.

P.S. Renntech shorties definitely look like a better design, but for <1/10 of the price, I'm happy.

 

Those look so similar to these

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...prototype.html

 

I agree, they look almost identical to the first design iteration. I must admit the "new design" looks a bit nicer, but I guess maybe it never made it into production.

I think I'm not supposed to promote non-sponsored vendors, but this is the set I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ben...item5ae4e2b56b

Thanks for pointing out that thread, btw. I hadn't found it before my header search began, but it has some great info.