dennisspeaks

Thanks for your replies, my trouble shooting skills are very limited, I want to go back to the basic to start from there by replacing those two clips that hold the apron thing up and I just have a feeling that switch has something to do with my problems, either way each should be cheap to replace once I find out what they are called and where i can get them. (and the relay by the pump). This site sure has helped avoid the dealer.

I took the car out yesterday to go to a Celebration of Life service and mysteriously the roll bars worked fine. Since the weather is bad I dared not mess with anything else until I replace the other parts.

Serndipity

Dennis,

Go back a read post #75. It posted incomplete and I have since added a couple of suggestions that may be related to your power roof operation.

bobbyjo9

The voltage arcing created by the operation of the relay will cause the contacts to erode and become rough. This compromises the contact surface area and makes it very susceptible to moisture related failure. Relays can be had for $6-$60 depending if you go to the dealer or your local parts counter.

I know the clips your talking about and sure the local dealership should be able to locate for you. In the meantime, any type of small clamp should be able to override the luggage cover safety switch on the passenger side. Just make sure whatever you choose is secure. If it pops off mid-operation you could be in for a real treat with your top stuck in a less than desirable stopping point!

dennisspeaks

Thanks for the additional info. We have been having frigid temperatures, cold enuf that it takes your breath away, since I don't have a heated garage, it is on hold, I will definitely check out your recommendations.

Thanks a ton!

Dennis

Edward M

First I want to tell everyone, that the pump and relays lay behind a metal plate at the front of the trunk. You need to remove the carpet and about 25 bolts to get to it all. You will find that there really are only 3 things that tend to go wrong. First, if your trunk cover is not fully in place, you will not get the top to work. It is a fault stopping that.

With the roll bar locked in the up position, you will see that you can not get the top to clear the head rest,o it is stuck in either the up or down position. This presents a problem getting to that plate I described. There is another way though.

If you remove the rear seats and the base speaker you can reach in to the filler cap on the hydraulic tank itself. Using a small funnel and tubing, you can fill it from the back seat then. Now you have hydraulic fluid. If the latch was leaking, it needs replaced first or it keeps emptying the tank. When you have replaced it, and refilled the tank, you need to run the roll bar up (even if up already) and hold for 20 seconds. That resets the relay itself. Now they should retract. If not, the first relay next to the pump most likely has failed.

If the top is fully automatic and uses a switch, there is no manual over ride to release. It is a lot of work, but doable. Check for leaks first as that is usually the thing unless it is just the boot cover not fully in position.

dennisspeaks

I am missing one of the clips that hold the boot up. Can someone please tell me what these are called, the part number and where to get them. Thanks.

Dennis

Austinat

Hi Dennis

I presume you are referring to the tray that isolates the hood storage area from the rest of the boot storage area.

I had a similar problem with one broken clip.

I do know what they are called, but decided to make one myself.

I took a piece of hard plastic, cut it to the approximate shape and used my wife's hair dryer to heat it and bend it into shape. I used a pair of clamps with flat blades to hold the plastic whilst heating it (these are generally used to hold 2 pieces of metal together when welding and are similar to Mole grips - pliers will do the same job) as the plastic becomes very hot. I bent the plastic back on itself to enable it to fit over the metal stay, as I could not replicate the original clip that has **** on it to fit in the rectangular hole.

After a little bit of fiddling I had a clip that was similar to the original. Ten minutes with a pair of cutters and a file and I had it to shape.

So far, it is holding and I am happy.

If your microswitch is not closing, try taping it with duct tape in the closed position.

Hope this helps.

Austinat

Austinat

Hi Klaus and Serndipity

Thanks for your advice and good wishes.

I have now put the car back on the road after laying it up over winter.

The hood now works exactly as it should i.e. after opening the hood clamp, the roll bars and windows drop. Pressing the "opening hood" switch initiates full hood operation. When hood is down the chime rings - re-pushing the hood button allows the roll bars to go up and the windows to close.

Any more problems, I know where to come. Thanks guys!.

In the meantime, my son has just bought an MGTF convertible.....

jinark

Thanks for the writeup. This is one of the clearest, best illustrated procedures I've read in my many years of working on cars. I've checked my hydraulic fluid as per your instructions and it's low. I'll flush and replenish the system as per your writeup.