falls profet

Hey guys,

This problem has been proliferating for a few months now. Forgive me for my ingorance on this, but I'm not sure if this are called the "A" arm or the control arm, but I KNOW this is the source of my problem.

About 6 months ago, a friend and I changed my rear spring pads. I'm always cautious about working on my car, however I think that when we put these bolts back in, we didn't use Locktite and didn't tighten them down enough; we only did it by hand which was probably a bad idea.

The bolts almost look bent, but I'm not for certain...

The noise isn't really a squeak or grind. Just sounds like a bushing is not tight enough or is blown. It's more of a squishy sound, and it REALLY does it bad in reverse...

I tightened both sides down last night with an impact gun, and it still makes the noise...here are some pics of the bolt and area I'm talking about:







(I just put some Lithium grease on 'em in this pic)

Pancho

I've replaced the front LCA's, not the rears, but you haven't mentioned a torque wrench or a torque value. These bolts are supposed to be tightened to a specific torque value.

Also, the fronts should not be tightened until they are in an approximate weight bearing profile, or the new bushings can be damaged. This criterion might also apply to the rears.

Similarly, the front LCA bolts are used to adjust camber, and should be indexed before removal so that the reinstall will reflect the exact same frame/bolt/washer/nut orientation to attempt to preserve the camber alignment. A dealer alignment usually follows.

I expect you will receive more direct responses regarding the rears.

falls profet

Thanks as always Panch!

Yes...unfortunately I don't believe when we put the bolts back in after changing the spring pads, that we tightened them again once the car was set back on the ground. I think they came lose and possibly bent the bolts and blew out the bushings. Carelessness on my part, I accept.

I also have about 200 lbs. in the trunk at all times so I'm sure that played a roll as well.

They are getting replaced Friday, and the parts all together only cost $58 for the new bolts and 4 bushings. I figured I would grab two more bushings and get free shipping...ha ha ha.

I'll post back the effects.

Pancho

It's not a matter of tightening them twice--"tightened them again once the car was set back on the ground". You only torque them down once, when you still have the car on jack stands, but, before you torque them, put a jack under the control arm, and raise it to an approximate driving profile, then you torque down the control arm bolts. You can mount the rim to help you approximate the driving profile. If you torque down the bolts when the suspension is hanging (extended), then you risk turning or tearing the bushings in the brace, once the suspension is compressed by the weight of the vehicle. Make sure that you understand what I am describing.

So, what is the torque value of the bolts ?