CLK320 cuts out on hard acceleration
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 502
Likes: 3
From: Bay Area
02 clk 55, 13 GL 450
How are things going Jeff? Have you cured your problem?
I'm still struggling. I bought a OBD2 scanner which can view live data. The one thing I see is when the problem occurs the fuelsys value goes from CL to OL-DRIVE. Any ideas?
I’ve also tested the car without the air filter, that did make it go worse all the way with the problem still in place.
But when I disconnected the MAF (with air filter in place) the car did go smoothly without the problem. Although it did loose a couple of horses…
I’ve just changed the MAF a couple of months ago and do not want buy another just to test.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the MAF does jerk I bit where it sits. So I’m going to try with some silicone to make it air tight around it’s connections.
Has anyone any other ideas on what I could check?
I'm still struggling. I bought a OBD2 scanner which can view live data. The one thing I see is when the problem occurs the fuelsys value goes from CL to OL-DRIVE. Any ideas?
I’ve also tested the car without the air filter, that did make it go worse all the way with the problem still in place.
But when I disconnected the MAF (with air filter in place) the car did go smoothly without the problem. Although it did loose a couple of horses…
I’ve just changed the MAF a couple of months ago and do not want buy another just to test.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the MAF does jerk I bit where it sits. So I’m going to try with some silicone to make it air tight around it’s connections.
Has anyone any other ideas on what I could check?
Don't Know it its the same for 430's and 320's but I have a similiar problem with my 430, took it to my MB mech and he said the transmission sensor that shifts the tranny trough gears is out of sync and needs to be replaced. Not something that will ruin the tranny, but he said the anything at WOT if will bog out for 1/2 second to a second and then kick back in. He also said MB has updated the part 4 times and is now close to $1k to replace. So car is fine for regular driving but cant mash on it without the delay... Might be that...
Im not sure but the "part" sounds like the TCU. However the problem does NOT sound like the TCU. Updated several times sounds like the adaptor plug but that is < 20 bucks so not sure what he meant? I wonder if he was refering to the conductor plate but again, that will usually hold the problem till you cycle the key. Any more info??
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: San Jose, CA
2002 CLK 430
I am probably going to talk to him tomorrow, and will get specifics. From what he was saying it sounded like he was talking about the TCU but no possitive. will keep you posted after I talk to him...
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
-01 C320 w203
Thanks for the tip bobbyjo9. Do you mean the o2 sensor sitting on the exhaust pipe before the cat? Since last time my alternator gave up. (Actually only the voltage regulator) while driving the car only on battery power I did not have any issues! Now with fixed alternator and a new seal under the MAF the problem only occurs while the engine is cold?!
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
CLK 320
I posted a similar question on Benzworld, so I thought I'd try here as well. Under hard acceleration, the car will cut out for about 1/2 a second and then immediately regain full power. The problem is intermittent in nature. As a matter of routine maintenance/to cure low idle, I have recently replaced the coils, plugs, wires, MAF, crank position sensor, thermostat and coolant temp sensor. Yet the problem persists.
It feels like a fuel cut-off gets tripped for a split second, but I'm not sure if that's a likely scenario on these cars.
It feels like a fuel cut-off gets tripped for a split second, but I'm not sure if that's a likely scenario on these cars.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
'02 CLK320 Sport
Unfortunately, I never fully got to the bottom of the problem and have since sold the car. I got things narrowed down to a cold start issue, but mine would be perfect until the outside temp dropped below about 50F. Once the car was warmed up the problem would disappear.
