Ginstech

Hi guys. I need help your help. I took my clk 320 to a mercedes repair shop ( the guy worked on mercedes exclusively ). My convertible top was working intermittently and the dealership wanted $1300 to fix the switches in the top to fix it. This guy tellers me he can fix it. he runs the codes and nothing came up on the pump so he wants to operate it a few times to see what happens. He ran it up and down up and down until he got a pump over heat code. Then it died. Now the thing is busted and what should have been a $1300 fix is now $4000. He claimed it is not his fault and was very nasty about the whole thing. I am very upset about this. What can do about it? Any help would be appreciated.

Serndipity

The W208 series CLK convertibles have been around 14 years now.

The system is quite complex, consisting of a controller, hydraulic pump, (7) hydraulic cylinders, several locks, numerous position/limit switches, relay etc..

However, if you search this forum, you will find numerous excellent threads covering roof failures and repairs.

That said, the first thing to do would be to check that the hydraulic fluid level in the pump's reservoir is between the min/max markings.

I believe that you'll find failure of the pump is rare, but should that be your problem, while Mercedes no longer supplies new replacement pumps, it can be rebuilt.

Ginstech

Thank you Serndipity. I would not know where to begin, I am an older woman and unfortunately I don't know enough about my car to fix it my self. I would love to send my pump to someone who could rebuild it. I saw Top Hydraulics here, but I can't get the pump out my self.

Serndipity

Ginstech

Your next step would be to have the problem further diagnosed and repaired by a trusted, qualified mechanic.

By changing parts, *****-nilly will be much more expensive to repair in the end.

Sometimes a forum member can make a recommendation, but it would be be based on location specifics.

Your initial description does appear to a problem in the hydraulic system, which is why I suggested to begin by checking the pump's fluid level, which is very easy to do.

At http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/c...y-instructions , click on:

Rear Bow Lock Replacement, Case Cover Lock Replacement and Hydraulic Fluid Flush(3.5Mb).pdf

On page 4, you will find easy instructions of how to do this.

If the level is to low, there is likely a leak in the hydraulic system and from the experiences of others, Top Hydraulics has been an excellent source of rebuilt repair components.

It is also possible that the over heat code is being caused by a broken (or weak) lift assist cables.

Ginstech

Wow, my cable are weak. I will attempt to check the fluid levels. I live in Chicago if anyone has a recommendation as to whom I could take my car to and get this fixed properly.

Thank you again.

Serndipity

If you don't receive a recommendation here, you could try posting at:

https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-tech-talk-41/

or see if one has been recommended here:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/reco...-repair-shops/

Top Hydraulics

Ginstech,

Serndipity has posted some sound advice for you. It looks like the very same topic has been covered in BenzWorld, as well.

Here is an abbreviated version of my response to your other thread, in hopes that it may help future readers:

It is very common for the pump motors to overheat and burn out, even if the relay does not stick. Running a few cycles up and down should not hurt a motor in good condition, so this was going to happen sooner or later. Be glad it happened in a shop, as opposed to you getting stuck on the road.

Unfortunately, the signal for the pump motor overheating usually comes far too late. Conversely, you can look at it as purely a diagnostic tool, and at least it will tell someone with the proper readout tool (which your mechanic apparently has) what actually happened.

The good news: Top Hydraulics can rebuild your pump and make it better than a new one. See CLK pump rebuild.

Taking the pump out of the trunk and replacing it does not take a very skilled mechanic; it only takes some time. Joetwa's DIY, hosted on our website, shows how to get access to the pump: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/W208...eplacement.pdf [as already mentioned by Serndipity]

Once the access is made, all the mechanic has to do is unplug the electric connector, unscrew the retaining plate for the hydraulic hoses, pull out the hoses piece by piece (they remain in the retaining plate), and unbolt the pump from the car. Drain all the fluid out of the reservoir. Done.

While your mechanic is taking out the pump, consider having them take out the tonneau cover lock and the rear bow lock at the same time. It only takes a few minutes extra at that point. Put them in the same box that you are shipping the pump in, and Top Hydraulics will upgrade the cylinders in those locks for an additional $55/ea.

Pump part numbers for reference:

2088001048 aka A 208 800 10 48 (model years 1998 and 1999)

2088000230 aka A 208 800 02 30 (many models up to VIN -070017)

2088001748 aka A 208 800 17 48 (all models starting with VIN -070018)

Hydraulic cylinder part numbers for reference:

1298001672 aka A 129 800 16 72 (rear bow lock cylinder mounted in lock p/n 1247700426)

1298000072 aka A 129 800 00 72 (case cover lock cylinder mounted in lock p/n 1247500684 or 2087500984)

2088000072 aka A 208 800 00 72 (main drive cylinders)

2088000172 aka A 208 800 01 72 (bow tension cylinders)

2088000272 aka A 208 800 02 72 (storage cover lift cylinder)

Klaus
Top Hydraulics, Inc
www.tophydraulicsinc.com