Another Wierd Ignition - Everyone Stumped
06-07-2013, 10:15 AM
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Another Wierd Ignition - Everyone Stumped
Dealing with the CLK320 Cab w/ 155K.
Intermittent problem with the ignition. Turn ignition on and key goes all the way - column unlocks; all lights light; doorlocks work; heater, headlights work; dashboard looks and sounds normal in running mode. Everything fires up except the starter doesn't turn over. Sometimes it'll give a little hesitation before turning over. Sometimes it'll turn over on the second or third turn of the key. Lately it'll flat not start with no warning. I've been left stranded twice in the last two days. When I let it set for a couple of hours it fires right up as if nothing has happened. It never fails to start in the morning thus giving me a false sense of security.
This problem actually reared its head a year or two ago, then it goes away for up to several months. I finally took it to the stealership late last summer. They couldn't pinpoint a definite problem, but said the key was the likely culprit. $400 later (diagnostic time, key, and re-programming) I had a new one. The problem went away until last week when the same damned problem reared its ugly, debilitating head.
Yes, I've had the starter wiring checked and all is good. No codes thrown (per independent mech. and stealership). Battery is fully charged.
This one has everyone stumped. One thought I had is that it's temperature related (outside temp). It's been 80-90 degrees F for the last few days and I've had the top down. It was giving me fits last summer. The humidity is relatively dry (I'm not in Houston or Savannah).
Has anyone else seen or heard of this one? Am I looking at a new ignition switch? Something else?
Thanks for your response.
Intermittent problem with the ignition. Turn ignition on and key goes all the way - column unlocks; all lights light; doorlocks work; heater, headlights work; dashboard looks and sounds normal in running mode. Everything fires up except the starter doesn't turn over. Sometimes it'll give a little hesitation before turning over. Sometimes it'll turn over on the second or third turn of the key. Lately it'll flat not start with no warning. I've been left stranded twice in the last two days. When I let it set for a couple of hours it fires right up as if nothing has happened. It never fails to start in the morning thus giving me a false sense of security.
This problem actually reared its head a year or two ago, then it goes away for up to several months. I finally took it to the stealership late last summer. They couldn't pinpoint a definite problem, but said the key was the likely culprit. $400 later (diagnostic time, key, and re-programming) I had a new one. The problem went away until last week when the same damned problem reared its ugly, debilitating head.
Yes, I've had the starter wiring checked and all is good. No codes thrown (per independent mech. and stealership). Battery is fully charged.
This one has everyone stumped. One thought I had is that it's temperature related (outside temp). It's been 80-90 degrees F for the last few days and I've had the top down. It was giving me fits last summer. The humidity is relatively dry (I'm not in Houston or Savannah).
Has anyone else seen or heard of this one? Am I looking at a new ignition switch? Something else?
Thanks for your response.
06-07-2013, 11:21 AM
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CLK W208
All it takes is a quick search on this Fourm and you would find your answer. The problem is related to your CPS also known as crank position sensor. After its worn out once the engine gets to operating temps it wouldn't work, in some cases car shuts down and in some cases once you shut the car down it won't start back up until you let it sit for sometimes up to two hours depending on how warm the engine is. It's a small sensor that sits on te driver side of your transmission body right where it connects to the engine. It's about $60 and changing it is a simple 10 minute job if the engine bay is cool. Google CLK W208 CPS and you'll see picture of it pop up.
06-07-2013, 03:51 PM
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Thanks for the tip VIPclk320. I did search ignition and ignition switch both here and on the tech forum. I could not find anything that mimicked my symptoms. None of those responses mentioned the CPS. I think it's kind of like looking up how to spell a word in the dictionary - you have to know how to spell it to be able to look it up and find out how to spell it.
Wouldn't a bad CPS throw a code?
PP, I actually have a shiny new M-B brake switch sitting on the shelf. But wouldn't a failed (or stuck) brake switch give other symptoms - gear shift not working, for example? Would it throw a code?
Wouldn't a bad CPS throw a code?
PP, I actually have a shiny new M-B brake switch sitting on the shelf. But wouldn't a failed (or stuck) brake switch give other symptoms - gear shift not working, for example? Would it throw a code?
06-07-2013, 06:45 PM
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2000 CLK 430
When my cps went bad, there was no error code. Got left stranded twice, once at a drive thru, had to push the car out and let it sit for an hour before i could drive home. Next was stranded in the middle of the road waiting at a light, had to push it to a gas station , left it there, went shopping for a few hours close by, came back and it fired up fine, drove home did some research here and ordered the cps, swapped it out in 20 min after i found it and have not stalled since
Last edited by CurYousGee; 06-08-2013 at 01:44 AM.
06-08-2013, 12:01 AM
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320 clk
Gorgerider did you find the answer to your issue?
My clk has the exact symptoms as yours. It always starts in the morning but once the temperature outside heats up it will not always start. Sometime you will have to turn the key 20 to 30 time before it starts. Sometime it seems like if you turn the key and wiggle it just right it will start sooner.
My clk has the exact symptoms as yours. It always starts in the morning but once the temperature outside heats up it will not always start. Sometime you will have to turn the key 20 to 30 time before it starts. Sometime it seems like if you turn the key and wiggle it just right it will start sooner.
06-08-2013, 09:09 AM
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Nope. It seems there were a couple of other responses to this thread, but those posts don't appear. They were from the guy at Pelican Parts. He also thought it might be the cps, but then seemed to receded from that. He also thought it might be a couple of really spendy computer modules. I don't know where the hell his posts went.
When cps goes bad does everything light up and work? I would think that a bad cps would also have a bad running engine as one of its symptoms. Once the car does start it runs as if nothing ever happened - it has never shut down while running.
Because the car starts when I let it set for a few hours, it kinda follows the cps route. For $50 it's worth a try. It'll be next week before I get a chance to get under the hood.
Like I said, I haven't seen symptoms exactly like these from posts on this forum.
When cps goes bad does everything light up and work? I would think that a bad cps would also have a bad running engine as one of its symptoms. Once the car does start it runs as if nothing ever happened - it has never shut down while running.
Because the car starts when I let it set for a few hours, it kinda follows the cps route. For $50 it's worth a try. It'll be next week before I get a chance to get under the hood.
Like I said, I haven't seen symptoms exactly like these from posts on this forum.
06-08-2013, 11:17 AM
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320 clk
What makes me think its the ignition switch is that moving the key in certain positions seem to make it start?
What makes me think it could be something different is how the outside temperature seem to affect when it starts?
What makes me think it could be something different is how the outside temperature seem to affect when it starts?
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06-10-2013, 11:53 AM
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mercedes clk 230
I have the exact same problem with my CLK 230K. She can go for months with no problems then all of a sudden you go to start her up and NOTHING! THE lights come on, radio starts but there is no ignition! I have changed the battery and put in a new starter motor but still no joy.
One thing which on occasion does work (but is highly embarrassing) is to lift up the bonet and start banging about with a tin (de-icer) aerosol I have which I'm sure is not really good for the car BUT after doing this, I turn the ignition and she starts.
Because of this I was thinking that maybe there is a loose connection somewhere under the bonnet and that by a quick jolt with the de-icer it reconnects again. I have no idea but any help would be much appreciated. I'm about to jump in my car and venture out but the thought of the car not starting at some point and getting stranded is not a great feeling.
Please HELP!!!!
One thing which on occasion does work (but is highly embarrassing) is to lift up the bonet and start banging about with a tin (de-icer) aerosol I have which I'm sure is not really good for the car BUT after doing this, I turn the ignition and she starts.
Because of this I was thinking that maybe there is a loose connection somewhere under the bonnet and that by a quick jolt with the de-icer it reconnects again. I have no idea but any help would be much appreciated. I'm about to jump in my car and venture out but the thought of the car not starting at some point and getting stranded is not a great feeling.
Please HELP!!!!
06-10-2013, 12:16 PM
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On the times that mine won't start I usually hear a single click. It sounds like it is coming from under the hood and close to the passenger side fire wall. If it was a ford I would replace the solenoid.
06-10-2013, 12:55 PM
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
I thought the click would be part of the normal start up procedure. I always kind of wait to hear the click before I turn to the start position. Training from my MG's with SU fuel pumps, I suppose.
06-10-2013, 02:07 PM
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@ Raceredi @Gorgerider. Before I changed the starter motor on mine I also used to hear the 'click click' sound and was told that it was a faulty solenoid which could only be fixed by replacing the whole starter motor.
Now when she doesn't start the 'click click' sound has stopped.
Now when she doesn't start the 'click click' sound has stopped.
06-16-2013, 10:14 PM
#12
The "wont start" definition needs further clarification.
If by wont start, you mean that the engine cranks over but wont fire, then that is most likely associated with the Crank position sensor ( OR another basic problem, like no fuel, no spark etc)
HOWEVER, if by wont start, you mean that on turning the key to the "start" position, you get nothing, ie NO CRANK, then that's an entirely different problem.
The latter, which has plagued my 2000 delivered CLK430, has taken me months and months of fault finding to identify.
The problem is either
1. Most likely, The Shifter mechanism.
In fact Mercedes recognised that the shifter was dodgy and upgraded it in 2003( I have been told)
Mercedes part# 202 267 08 24, supersedes the old part # 202 267 04 24
or,
2. (unlikely) The Park/Neutral lockout switch, which is inside the gearbox. To replace it you need to purchase a "conductor plate" which is a DIY job, and well described on here.
I have spent hundreds of hours trying to source the appropriate information from Mercedes and other sources. In the end, I ran out of testing that I could perform and the shifter was the last straw.
The Transmission control units do not fail very often at all, the Shifters fail very often, through water / dirt ingress into the unprotected circuit board and through a fault that seems to occur if the car is left with a flat battery for any length of time. The upgraded shifter (I am told) offers little better water protection, but the electronic glitch seems to have been rectified.
There are other possible problems, but very unlikely.
One key indicator, is to have a look at the dash next time it wont start and check the "gear indicator". IF its a white block, I will bet my left ******** that its the shifter.
Why - basically the Shifter, Trans control unit, ECU and EIS ( and DASH) talk to each other via CANB ( two wires that carry data rather than having individual wires running for each circuit).
When the key is inserted, the EIS reads the key ( no battery is required in the Key fob at this stage). The EIS sends the key code to the ECU, which compares the two, and if its a valid key, allows the EIS, to withdraw the locking tab in the EIS which allows the key to turn and withdraws the locking bolt on the steering column ( This is a whiring/click sound near the key).
Now you can turn the key to "accessories / ignition" ect.
On turning to "start" the shifter, sends a signal to the TCU, and tells it what gear its in ( N or P) AND the N/P safety lockout in the gearbox is also used to confirm this. ( this prevents the start cycle if say the shifter linkage had fallen off, while the car was in D or R but the shifter itself was in N or P)
So with both the Shifter and the N/P safety Lockout are N or P, it sends a signal to the TCU, the TCU then sends the "ready for start" signal to the ECU via the EIS.
The ECU, generates a single earth output to the K40 relay which energises the Starter motor solenoid.
SO - a longwinded explanation ( and I have left s few bits of info out, but will do a full writeup soon.)
I am happy to answer any questions, but this info was not even well understood by some Mercedes technicians. They simply rely on the CANB data signal and a "swap it out" method of fault finding.
I hope your problem is simpler as the NEW MB PRICE is $1900ish, or $600 from Ebay ( genuine MB). You cant buy the individual circuit boards in the shifter mechanism, its a whole unit.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Dave
If by wont start, you mean that the engine cranks over but wont fire, then that is most likely associated with the Crank position sensor ( OR another basic problem, like no fuel, no spark etc)
HOWEVER, if by wont start, you mean that on turning the key to the "start" position, you get nothing, ie NO CRANK, then that's an entirely different problem.
The latter, which has plagued my 2000 delivered CLK430, has taken me months and months of fault finding to identify.
The problem is either
1. Most likely, The Shifter mechanism.
In fact Mercedes recognised that the shifter was dodgy and upgraded it in 2003( I have been told)
Mercedes part# 202 267 08 24, supersedes the old part # 202 267 04 24
or,
2. (unlikely) The Park/Neutral lockout switch, which is inside the gearbox. To replace it you need to purchase a "conductor plate" which is a DIY job, and well described on here.
I have spent hundreds of hours trying to source the appropriate information from Mercedes and other sources. In the end, I ran out of testing that I could perform and the shifter was the last straw.
The Transmission control units do not fail very often at all, the Shifters fail very often, through water / dirt ingress into the unprotected circuit board and through a fault that seems to occur if the car is left with a flat battery for any length of time. The upgraded shifter (I am told) offers little better water protection, but the electronic glitch seems to have been rectified.
There are other possible problems, but very unlikely.
One key indicator, is to have a look at the dash next time it wont start and check the "gear indicator". IF its a white block, I will bet my left ******** that its the shifter.
Why - basically the Shifter, Trans control unit, ECU and EIS ( and DASH) talk to each other via CANB ( two wires that carry data rather than having individual wires running for each circuit).
When the key is inserted, the EIS reads the key ( no battery is required in the Key fob at this stage). The EIS sends the key code to the ECU, which compares the two, and if its a valid key, allows the EIS, to withdraw the locking tab in the EIS which allows the key to turn and withdraws the locking bolt on the steering column ( This is a whiring/click sound near the key).
Now you can turn the key to "accessories / ignition" ect.
On turning to "start" the shifter, sends a signal to the TCU, and tells it what gear its in ( N or P) AND the N/P safety lockout in the gearbox is also used to confirm this. ( this prevents the start cycle if say the shifter linkage had fallen off, while the car was in D or R but the shifter itself was in N or P)
So with both the Shifter and the N/P safety Lockout are N or P, it sends a signal to the TCU, the TCU then sends the "ready for start" signal to the ECU via the EIS.
The ECU, generates a single earth output to the K40 relay which energises the Starter motor solenoid.
SO - a longwinded explanation ( and I have left s few bits of info out, but will do a full writeup soon.)
I am happy to answer any questions, but this info was not even well understood by some Mercedes technicians. They simply rely on the CANB data signal and a "swap it out" method of fault finding.
I hope your problem is simpler as the NEW MB PRICE is $1900ish, or $600 from Ebay ( genuine MB). You cant buy the individual circuit boards in the shifter mechanism, its a whole unit.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Dave
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06-17-2013, 03:52 AM
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I just thought i'd add my 2 cents worth here as this is intreging.
Firstly as OZCLK430 said, if the car cranks but does not start this will be diffrenet issue to trying to turn the key but with no crank.
If the car does crank however and you have ruled out your CPS being bad, and you have a new working fuel pump then there is one more thing I would check. Its interesting that you the problem seems to be associated with temperature, so have you checked the Fuel pump relay in the trunk? I had an issue that when there was moisture in the air it would take ages to start as the relay contacts had a film of dirt build up and seemed to get worse with moist air.
Try giving it a little clean or you can use a 'jump' wire to close the circuit in the relay plug.
The fuel pump relay is in the trunk under the carpet at the back on the right in a small black plastic cover. Pull the relay and use a thin knife to ease the case off the relay from the bottom. You may find two knives are best to work on two sides simultanesously. You will see the contacts in side, and use a little bit of card to slide in and clean the dirt of the contacts.
If it is the relay, they are cheap and can be bought everywhere inc Mercedes dealer.
good luck
Firstly as OZCLK430 said, if the car cranks but does not start this will be diffrenet issue to trying to turn the key but with no crank.
If the car does crank however and you have ruled out your CPS being bad, and you have a new working fuel pump then there is one more thing I would check. Its interesting that you the problem seems to be associated with temperature, so have you checked the Fuel pump relay in the trunk? I had an issue that when there was moisture in the air it would take ages to start as the relay contacts had a film of dirt build up and seemed to get worse with moist air.
Try giving it a little clean or you can use a 'jump' wire to close the circuit in the relay plug.
The fuel pump relay is in the trunk under the carpet at the back on the right in a small black plastic cover. Pull the relay and use a thin knife to ease the case off the relay from the bottom. You may find two knives are best to work on two sides simultanesously. You will see the contacts in side, and use a little bit of card to slide in and clean the dirt of the contacts.
If it is the relay, they are cheap and can be bought everywhere inc Mercedes dealer.
good luck
06-17-2013, 10:31 AM
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Thanks to all for chiming in on this.
OK. To reiterate:
When it fails to start there is no cranking.
It has never failed or shut down once it has started.
It has never run poorly (stumbled, missed, etc.) once started.
It has never thrown a code indicating CPS or other sensor.
Car has not had a flat battery that coincided with the no-start problem (it went low once.
It always starts after sitting at least a couple of hours.
It seems to be affected by temperatures over approx. 80 F.
No symptoms from last summer until a week ago.
Unfortunately, I can't check the gear indicator - light bulb in the instrument cluster is toast.
Here are the theories/solutions put forth:
Use a rattle can and bang around - no definite cause identified (hey, it was worth a shot, SistarB).
CPS. Symptoms don't fit except for CurYousGee. No information as to whether temperature had an effect for him. Any thoughts CYG?
Starter motor solenoid. No click from solenoid when ignition is turned to start. My previous post was misleading in that the click to which I referred was from the dash and not the engine bay. Symptoms don't fit.
Ignition switch. The switch always seems to read the key and it always turns all the way to start. Fiddling with the switch position has no effect. Not a likely cause.
Brake pedal switch. Trans shifter does not lock up. Symptoms don't fit.
Fuel pump relay. When it fails the car doesn't crank. Symptoms don't fit.
That leads us to OZCLK430 and the shifter/P-N lockout switch. It sounds like you have some chops on this one, Dave. Did replacing the shifter actually fix the problem? Were your symptoms the same as mine, and, apparently, SistarB? I found this used one this morning on fleaBay for $160. The stealership says it is the same as the one from my car and will swap out (donor VIN supplied in the listing). Here's the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-ME...a86586&vxp=mtr
Whaddya think? Should I pull the trigger?
Edit: I went ahead and ordered it. If it doesn't work for me then someone else can likely use it.
Now all I have to do is figure out how to replace it. And yes, VIPCLK320, I still don't know how to properly search this forum. I spent an hour and couldn't come up with the right combination of search words. Any ideas?
OK. To reiterate:
When it fails to start there is no cranking.
It has never failed or shut down once it has started.
It has never run poorly (stumbled, missed, etc.) once started.
It has never thrown a code indicating CPS or other sensor.
Car has not had a flat battery that coincided with the no-start problem (it went low once.
It always starts after sitting at least a couple of hours.
It seems to be affected by temperatures over approx. 80 F.
No symptoms from last summer until a week ago.
Unfortunately, I can't check the gear indicator - light bulb in the instrument cluster is toast.
Here are the theories/solutions put forth:
Use a rattle can and bang around - no definite cause identified (hey, it was worth a shot, SistarB).
CPS. Symptoms don't fit except for CurYousGee. No information as to whether temperature had an effect for him. Any thoughts CYG?
Starter motor solenoid. No click from solenoid when ignition is turned to start. My previous post was misleading in that the click to which I referred was from the dash and not the engine bay. Symptoms don't fit.
Ignition switch. The switch always seems to read the key and it always turns all the way to start. Fiddling with the switch position has no effect. Not a likely cause.
Brake pedal switch. Trans shifter does not lock up. Symptoms don't fit.
Fuel pump relay. When it fails the car doesn't crank. Symptoms don't fit.
That leads us to OZCLK430 and the shifter/P-N lockout switch. It sounds like you have some chops on this one, Dave. Did replacing the shifter actually fix the problem? Were your symptoms the same as mine, and, apparently, SistarB? I found this used one this morning on fleaBay for $160. The stealership says it is the same as the one from my car and will swap out (donor VIN supplied in the listing). Here's the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-ME...a86586&vxp=mtr
Whaddya think? Should I pull the trigger?
Edit: I went ahead and ordered it. If it doesn't work for me then someone else can likely use it.
Now all I have to do is figure out how to replace it. And yes, VIPCLK320, I still don't know how to properly search this forum. I spent an hour and couldn't come up with the right combination of search words. Any ideas?
Last edited by gorgerider; 06-17-2013 at 11:05 AM.
06-18-2013, 06:29 AM
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mercedes clk 230
Wow! @02CLK430 @A1EK @RORF @Gorgerider - really impressed with your ideas. Obviously being a mere chick, I'm going to hand over all this info to my Dad as he will understand better ;-) I'm on my way out now, de-icer aerosol can in hand. Wish me luck on returning back home without getting stranded! lol! Big thank you for your help :-)
06-18-2013, 10:32 AM
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SistarB, Welcome to the forum.
I went to town yesterday at about 1:00 pm. Sun was out and temp was about 85 F. Two stops and no problems starting. Car dash and console were shaded, top up and all windows open. After shopping in the final store for about half an hour the no-start problem reared its head. Car was parked with sun on the console and temp was up to over 85 F. After half a dozen tries with the ignition switch the car started and I was able to get home.
Later that evening I had another errand to do. Temp was cooler (about 75 F). No problems getting it re-started, but it sat for an hour and a half before I went to start it.
I keep coming back to the idea that the failure is triggered by temps over 80 F. I took the car for the evening run because I'm getting more confident it's temperature related. Last week I ran 250 miles up to Seattle. I decided to take the car because the weather was going to be crappy for the 24 hours I was going to be on the road. It never failed to start. I'm going to continue to test this theory and try to further confirm it. I just hope I can do so without having to walk home.
I went to town yesterday at about 1:00 pm. Sun was out and temp was about 85 F. Two stops and no problems starting. Car dash and console were shaded, top up and all windows open. After shopping in the final store for about half an hour the no-start problem reared its head. Car was parked with sun on the console and temp was up to over 85 F. After half a dozen tries with the ignition switch the car started and I was able to get home.
Later that evening I had another errand to do. Temp was cooler (about 75 F). No problems getting it re-started, but it sat for an hour and a half before I went to start it.
I keep coming back to the idea that the failure is triggered by temps over 80 F. I took the car for the evening run because I'm getting more confident it's temperature related. Last week I ran 250 miles up to Seattle. I decided to take the car because the weather was going to be crappy for the 24 hours I was going to be on the road. It never failed to start. I'm going to continue to test this theory and try to further confirm it. I just hope I can do so without having to walk home.
06-18-2013, 04:01 PM
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Its a common problem for clks. Fix ur crankshaft position sensor. It's an easy DIY but just hard to reach the part where it is located. It has nothing to do with the weather. It happens when ur car heats up after driving it.
06-19-2013, 01:23 PM
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I just heard from a Benz service manager whom I got to know a couple of years ago. He also suggested I replace the CPS (albeit with the caveat that it was a guess on his part). That makes at least three suggestions to go ahead and replace it, but I'm still not quite convinced that's the culprit because once started, it never fails to run perfectly without shutting down or running badly. However, $50 and a couple of busted knuckles tells me it's worth a shot. The shifter came today and I'll have it as backup. If the CPS works, I'll put the shifter back on fleaBay (unless someone here wants it).
I have to go to Seattle again tomorrow. The good news is that the weather is going to be crappy again. I'll let you all know if I need a ride back home.
I have to go to Seattle again tomorrow. The good news is that the weather is going to be crappy again. I'll let you all know if I need a ride back home.
06-25-2013, 05:05 PM
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I finally got around to replacing the CPS this morning. A couple of things to note:
1). The bolt was not the E-8 female torx socket that the stealership has in their schematic diagrams and that have been mentioned elsewhere on the forum. The bolt was a 5mm hex-head socket (male hex wrench needed).
2). The most common suggestion to keep the bolt from falling was to use a little grease to hold the bolt head to the wrench/socket (of whatever flavor). I didn't want to take a chance on dropping the thing so I peeled off a 1/8" piece of good sticky duct tape and wrapped it around the bolt head and CPS body such that the bolt was straight in the hole. I positioned it so it protruded about 1/8" below the flange so the bolt would meet the hole before the CPS was flush with the transmission housing. I nailed the bolt in the hole on the first shot. After a few turns I pulled the tape and continued to tighten.
Now I'll have to figure out whether or not this is the fix I've been looking for. I just hope the assessment doesn't involve a bunch of walking.
1). The bolt was not the E-8 female torx socket that the stealership has in their schematic diagrams and that have been mentioned elsewhere on the forum. The bolt was a 5mm hex-head socket (male hex wrench needed).
2). The most common suggestion to keep the bolt from falling was to use a little grease to hold the bolt head to the wrench/socket (of whatever flavor). I didn't want to take a chance on dropping the thing so I peeled off a 1/8" piece of good sticky duct tape and wrapped it around the bolt head and CPS body such that the bolt was straight in the hole. I positioned it so it protruded about 1/8" below the flange so the bolt would meet the hole before the CPS was flush with the transmission housing. I nailed the bolt in the hole on the first shot. After a few turns I pulled the tape and continued to tighten.
Now I'll have to figure out whether or not this is the fix I've been looking for. I just hope the assessment doesn't involve a bunch of walking.
06-28-2013, 09:30 AM
#21
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Well, it ain't the damned CPS.
In the morning I went for an errand between 0800 and 0900. Car started going out and coming back. Temp was about 70 F.
In the afternoon I went to hit a few ***** at the local driving range. I forgot to park the car in the shade. Top up and windows up. Temp was 85 F when I returned two hours later. No start. I rolled the car into the shade, popped the hood, dropped the top, and opened the doors and windows to allow whatever was too hot to get cooler. Another hour-and-a-half later it started on the second turn of the key.
The good news is that I got another hour-and-a-half in on the practice green. The bad news is that I had to keep explaining to kind people in the parking lot that I didn't need a jump and that the car would start. Eventually.
I guess it's time to replace the shifter unless someone else has had an epiphany or something came to them in a dream.
In the morning I went for an errand between 0800 and 0900. Car started going out and coming back. Temp was about 70 F.
In the afternoon I went to hit a few ***** at the local driving range. I forgot to park the car in the shade. Top up and windows up. Temp was 85 F when I returned two hours later. No start. I rolled the car into the shade, popped the hood, dropped the top, and opened the doors and windows to allow whatever was too hot to get cooler. Another hour-and-a-half later it started on the second turn of the key.
The good news is that I got another hour-and-a-half in on the practice green. The bad news is that I had to keep explaining to kind people in the parking lot that I didn't need a jump and that the car would start. Eventually.
I guess it's time to replace the shifter unless someone else has had an epiphany or something came to them in a dream.
07-09-2013, 04:59 PM
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1999 CLK 320 Coupe
I'm probably going to start a new topic about this (and search the archives a little more), but since there are some real experts with ignition problems in this thread, I want to quickly share my similar, but not quite identical issue:
About two months ago I started experiencing a problem where I turn the key in the ignition, and it turns over and sounds like the engine has started for a split second, but then the engine instantly shuts off/dies. It has been doing this at random times maybe 1 out of 7 starts. This morning i got scared because it did it three times in a row, which was a first.
There are two related codes thrown related to systems mentioned in this thread, one is visible on my OBD-II scanner, and the other was only visible to my mechanic on his computer:
OBD-II code P0700, transmission control system (malfunction indicator lamp request), PENDING (evidently it hasn't triggered again because the code is now gone and I didn't reset the codes).
On the big computer, I don't know which specific code it was, but my mechanic told me he saw something related to the ignition switch (I believe he said that it would be $1900 to replace the related part). He says he's seen the same issue I'm having on one or two other benzes very recently.
Is my issue separate from what everyone has mentioned here, or the same? I recently had everything wrong with the car fixed but my mechanic said the ignition issue is inconclusive and that I should see what happens.
About two months ago I started experiencing a problem where I turn the key in the ignition, and it turns over and sounds like the engine has started for a split second, but then the engine instantly shuts off/dies. It has been doing this at random times maybe 1 out of 7 starts. This morning i got scared because it did it three times in a row, which was a first.
There are two related codes thrown related to systems mentioned in this thread, one is visible on my OBD-II scanner, and the other was only visible to my mechanic on his computer:
OBD-II code P0700, transmission control system (malfunction indicator lamp request), PENDING (evidently it hasn't triggered again because the code is now gone and I didn't reset the codes).
On the big computer, I don't know which specific code it was, but my mechanic told me he saw something related to the ignition switch (I believe he said that it would be $1900 to replace the related part). He says he's seen the same issue I'm having on one or two other benzes very recently.
Is my issue separate from what everyone has mentioned here, or the same? I recently had everything wrong with the car fixed but my mechanic said the ignition issue is inconclusive and that I should see what happens.
07-11-2013, 04:19 PM
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W208 CLK 200 Sport
you could try this: aim your key at the reciever on your doorhandle, have the key within an inch from it, press unlock, then put it in the ignition. worked for my spare key, it didn't work before I did this. Must add to that that the second key has not been used in ages causing the car to "forget" it. I then did this and two days later it didn't work again, just repeat what I just described and it starts just fine with both keys. Though this is in europe, I don't know if they're different in US
08-19-2013, 07:24 AM
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mercedes clk 230
UPDATE - I've been out of the country for a month but came back to my Merc which started first time! Obviously, this good luck did not last long and before I knew it she was back to her old ways and starting intermittently.
I decided to take her to yet another garage and the guy there convinced me that the problem was with the relay. £75 later and my car was running perfectly - for 3 days - and then the same old same old - still not starting!
I'm taking her back to the garage this week but I have a horrible feeling that there's not one person on this planet that knows what is wrong with my car!!??
Has anybody else on here sorted out there starting problems yet or am I gonna have to admit defeat?
I decided to take her to yet another garage and the guy there convinced me that the problem was with the relay. £75 later and my car was running perfectly - for 3 days - and then the same old same old - still not starting!
I'm taking her back to the garage this week but I have a horrible feeling that there's not one person on this planet that knows what is wrong with my car!!??
Has anybody else on here sorted out there starting problems yet or am I gonna have to admit defeat?
08-19-2013, 10:22 AM
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2000 clk 320 cabriolet
Another update: I went and replaced the shifter and shifter bushing this week at the recommendation of OZCLK430. To my surprise, I got it all back together with no extra parts. I did, however, have to buy a set of round-head hex wrenches (and I hate buying more tools). As mentioned above, the problem is that the car fails to start when it's over 80 F. My first test drive was at about 87 F and it didn't fail to restart on a four-stop errand run. I have some more testing to do before the weather cools off, and I have a few finnies crossed, but my hopes are definitely up.
Don't give up SistarB. This problem has been around my car for two years and it's taken this long to finally nail it down. I think you'll be able to do the same. My cost to fix it was a wrong part (CPS) at $50 and half an hour. Then the used shifter and grommet cost $170 and a couple of hours. If you let the mechanic guess, he's in control and you have a huge chance of getting a big bill and no solution. My suggestion is that you "drive the boat" and direct their work in a more proactive manner. Even if you're the one doing the guessing and you get it wrong, it won't cost any more than if he was the one doing the guessing. If you're right, you'll have saved yourself money because the mechanic won't be spending his time (and your money) chasing a flock of geese. I'm just sayin'.
Many thanks to OZCLK430 for his dedication and help in figuring out what I hope is the solution to my, and hopefully others', problem. If I happen to run into him some day he'll never be able to buy an adult beverage when I'm around. It's on me, OZ.
Don't give up SistarB. This problem has been around my car for two years and it's taken this long to finally nail it down. I think you'll be able to do the same. My cost to fix it was a wrong part (CPS) at $50 and half an hour. Then the used shifter and grommet cost $170 and a couple of hours. If you let the mechanic guess, he's in control and you have a huge chance of getting a big bill and no solution. My suggestion is that you "drive the boat" and direct their work in a more proactive manner. Even if you're the one doing the guessing and you get it wrong, it won't cost any more than if he was the one doing the guessing. If you're right, you'll have saved yourself money because the mechanic won't be spending his time (and your money) chasing a flock of geese. I'm just sayin'.
Many thanks to OZCLK430 for his dedication and help in figuring out what I hope is the solution to my, and hopefully others', problem. If I happen to run into him some day he'll never be able to buy an adult beverage when I'm around. It's on me, OZ.
