w208 Seat wire diagram ???
03-24-2014, 02:46 PM
#1
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1999 mercedez benz clk 430
w208 Seat wire diagram ???
Does anyone have a wire diagram or schematic for the power seats on a clk 430I am having a problem with the seat back not locking in on the passanger seat. I found a broken wire on the second connector from the door on the control modual under the seat. I fixed it but no difference. Also where are the fuses for that function on the seat, I found one burnt out fuse in the trunck. That fixed my driver seat fore and aft function.
03-25-2014, 09:49 AM
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1999 mercedez benz clk 430
Have not looked at fuses under hood or in doorjam/ side of dash board.
Any idea of what fuses go to what in any of the fuse boxes. Most older cars whould have listed that in the manual but I guess the Benz does not.
Any idea of what fuses go to what in any of the fuse boxes. Most older cars whould have listed that in the manual but I guess the Benz does not.
03-25-2014, 10:02 AM
#4
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There should be a card under the lid of the fuse box. If not than I'm sure one could be found online. I personally would go through and check all of them.
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Reggiexp (05-02-2018)
05-02-2018, 10:40 AM
#7
hey
'could be my double din radio but that is on the sigar lightner that only works with the key, or my amp maybe i dont know, but some thread said eletric seat do draain the battery and its useless that its always on cause i dont have memory thing i just got forward and up and down on the seat.
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05-02-2018, 11:32 AM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
When the car is off, some circuits still draw power from the battery (e.g. central locking, radio, anti-theft etc.) however, If more than 50 milliamps is being drawn, something is using too much battery power and you need to isolate the circuit responsible for the high current draw.
You can do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable and connecting an amp meter in series, between the cable and battery post. Next, begin pulling fuses, one by one, to find the circuit responsible for the high current draw. By isolating the circuit, you will greatly narrow down the problem area. Then you can disconnect potential modules, look for short circuits, make sure dome/trunk/glove box lights are switching off etc.
Off means key out of the ignition. Additionally, wait a few minutes before testing, because after the car is turned off, the current draw will be much higher, due to time delay circuitry that needs to end.
You can do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable and connecting an amp meter in series, between the cable and battery post. Next, begin pulling fuses, one by one, to find the circuit responsible for the high current draw. By isolating the circuit, you will greatly narrow down the problem area. Then you can disconnect potential modules, look for short circuits, make sure dome/trunk/glove box lights are switching off etc.
Off means key out of the ignition. Additionally, wait a few minutes before testing, because after the car is turned off, the current draw will be much higher, due to time delay circuitry that needs to end.
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Reggiexp (05-02-2018)
05-02-2018, 11:47 AM
#9
When the car is off, some circuits still draw power from the battery (e.g. central locking, radio, anti-theft etc.) however, If more than 50 milliamps is being drawn, something is using too much battery power and you need to isolate the circuit responsible for the high current draw.
You can do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable and connecting an amp meter in series, between the cable and battery post. Next, begin pulling fuses, one by one, to find the circuit responsible for the high current draw. By isolating the circuit, you will greatly narrow down the problem area. Then you can disconnect potential modules, look for short circuits, make sure dome/trunk/glove box lights are switching off etc.
Off means key out of the ignition. Additionally, wait a few minutes before testing, because after the car is turned off, the current draw will be much higher, due to time delay circuitry that needs to end.
You can do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable and connecting an amp meter in series, between the cable and battery post. Next, begin pulling fuses, one by one, to find the circuit responsible for the high current draw. By isolating the circuit, you will greatly narrow down the problem area. Then you can disconnect potential modules, look for short circuits, make sure dome/trunk/glove box lights are switching off etc.
Off means key out of the ignition. Additionally, wait a few minutes before testing, because after the car is turned off, the current draw will be much higher, due to time delay circuitry that needs to end.
