2003 CLK430 roll bars go up instead of top going down?
#1
2003 CLK430 roll bars go up instead of top going down?
Hey guys, long time reader but first time poster. I've owned a handful of mercedes through the years and this forum has helped me solved many of the issues I've encountered, except for this one!
I recently aquired a 2003 Clk430 Cabrio, and I love it! Had some cooling system work done and new tires installed. However, there is an issue with the canvas top that I can't seem to figure out.
When I unlatch it, the windows go down as usual and the top light glows red. When I pull the top switch the top does nothing and the roll bars automatically rise to the highest setting. Then the top button flashes slowly. What could this be? After that happens I have to reset the roll bars by holding the button up then back down. And this happens every time I try to lower the top.
Any suggestion before I go to indy? Thanks again!
I recently aquired a 2003 Clk430 Cabrio, and I love it! Had some cooling system work done and new tires installed. However, there is an issue with the canvas top that I can't seem to figure out.
When I unlatch it, the windows go down as usual and the top light glows red. When I pull the top switch the top does nothing and the roll bars automatically rise to the highest setting. Then the top button flashes slowly. What could this be? After that happens I have to reset the roll bars by holding the button up then back down. And this happens every time I try to lower the top.
Any suggestion before I go to indy? Thanks again!
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Gabriel......welcome to the W208 forum
I've enclosed some thumbnails that will provide additional details to my comments.
The lamp on the main power roof switch provides system status and some basic diagnostic information.
It's possible that the RB or lock/unlock mechanism lost synchronization. In that event, MB provided a 'subsequent locking procedure'. It may be worth trying at this time.
Unfortunately, the 1 Hz flashing lamp also indicates that a system error has occurred, which should store a diagnostic fault code.
Make sure that your indy has the MB SDS diagnostic software, which will help find the faulty RB component.
As example......a BI650 0I fault code indicates that the maximum permissible time until the RB extended limit switch (S83/6) is triggered has been exceeded.
The shop should also have the MB toolkit, which would include a 55 pin test cable/connector block, other electrical cables/connectors, pressure gauge with connectors/plugs etc., for further troubleshooting / verifying a faulty component.
As example......using the 55 pin test cable, the RB deployment solenoid and limit switches can easily be checked for their condition and/or wiring harness issues by taking voltage and resistance measurement with a multimeter.
RB repair is a PITA and expensive, due to the labor involved to access the controller/hydraulics in the trunk as well as the RB assembly, located behind the rear seat. Because MB does not sell individual RB components, dealership repair is done by replacing the entire RB assembly, at a cost that approaches what 13 -18 year old W208 is worth.
If you search the forum and have good troubleshooting / DIY repair skills, you'll be able to greatly mitigate the cost. For example, you'll find the limit switches are the same as those used on the R129 class, which MB does sell for around $20. A forum sponsor, Top Hydraulics http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/23-w208-clk , provides quality rebuild services for all the hydraulic components.
I've enclosed some thumbnails that will provide additional details to my comments.
The lamp on the main power roof switch provides system status and some basic diagnostic information.
It's possible that the RB or lock/unlock mechanism lost synchronization. In that event, MB provided a 'subsequent locking procedure'. It may be worth trying at this time.
Unfortunately, the 1 Hz flashing lamp also indicates that a system error has occurred, which should store a diagnostic fault code.
Make sure that your indy has the MB SDS diagnostic software, which will help find the faulty RB component.
As example......a BI650 0I fault code indicates that the maximum permissible time until the RB extended limit switch (S83/6) is triggered has been exceeded.
The shop should also have the MB toolkit, which would include a 55 pin test cable/connector block, other electrical cables/connectors, pressure gauge with connectors/plugs etc., for further troubleshooting / verifying a faulty component.
As example......using the 55 pin test cable, the RB deployment solenoid and limit switches can easily be checked for their condition and/or wiring harness issues by taking voltage and resistance measurement with a multimeter.
RB repair is a PITA and expensive, due to the labor involved to access the controller/hydraulics in the trunk as well as the RB assembly, located behind the rear seat. Because MB does not sell individual RB components, dealership repair is done by replacing the entire RB assembly, at a cost that approaches what 13 -18 year old W208 is worth.
If you search the forum and have good troubleshooting / DIY repair skills, you'll be able to greatly mitigate the cost. For example, you'll find the limit switches are the same as those used on the R129 class, which MB does sell for around $20. A forum sponsor, Top Hydraulics http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/23-w208-clk , provides quality rebuild services for all the hydraulic components.
#3
SPONSOR
Gabriel, welcome to the forum!
This is the first time I have heard of this particular malfunction, and that means it is quite rare. Serndipity has given you an excellent response.
You are probably best off having codes read by an indy. Better yet, since you are a Mercedes fanatic and you will likely be buying more Mercedes in the future, you may want to get a Chinese clone of the Mercedes software, so that you can read codes yourself.
One thing you could try is removing the rear seat, and pulling the connector off the right one of the two solenoids on the roll bar valve 124 800 16 78. The left solenoid (the outer one, in the direction of the car) makes the roll bar retract, and the right one makes it extend. If the roll bar does not extend any more, then there is a chance that the soft top will move.
Klaus
Location of your CLK cabriolet hydraulics
When I unlatch it, the windows go down as usual and the top light glows red. When I pull the top switch the top does nothing and the roll bars automatically rise to the highest setting. Then the top button flashes slowly. What could this be? After that happens I have to reset the roll bars by holding the button up then back down. And this happens every time I try to lower the top.
You are probably best off having codes read by an indy. Better yet, since you are a Mercedes fanatic and you will likely be buying more Mercedes in the future, you may want to get a Chinese clone of the Mercedes software, so that you can read codes yourself.
One thing you could try is removing the rear seat, and pulling the connector off the right one of the two solenoids on the roll bar valve 124 800 16 78. The left solenoid (the outer one, in the direction of the car) makes the roll bar retract, and the right one makes it extend. If the roll bar does not extend any more, then there is a chance that the soft top will move.
Klaus
Location of your CLK cabriolet hydraulics
#4
Junior Member
Klaus, you write:
I have a MY 2000 CLK430 (W208) and my roller has deployed and won't retract with the dash switch nor when doing the "8 second up, then push down" method. I do hear the hydraulic pump running and I do see the rear case cover move slightly up and down when I operate the rollbar switch. My rollbar value is one that you resealed for me a few years ago. I don't see any fluid leaks, and was wondering if I apply power to the left solenoid and also run the pump (using the rollbar switch pushed in the down position) should I expect that the rollbar will lower as long as I have the power applied to the solenoid?
Also if I disconnect one or more hydraulic lines and push the rollbar switch to the down position, I should see fluid squiring out of the line, correct?
One thing you could try is removing the rear seat, and pulling the connector off the right one of the two solenoids on the roll bar valve 124 800 16 78. The left solenoid (the outer one, in the direction of the car) makes the roll bar retract, and the right one makes it extend.
Also if I disconnect one or more hydraulic lines and push the rollbar switch to the down position, I should see fluid squiring out of the line, correct?