Wrexial

I've been scouring this forum and other sites over the past few days for as much info as I can find about replacing a damaged shifter assembly in my CLK320. Seems like it's doable as a DIY job for around $250 as opposed to my local repair shop wanting $1,100 for the repair.

However, I have a few very specific questions that I can't seem to find definitive answers to.

1) My repair guy (independent, not dealership) says that a used shifter assembly will not work for this repair because each one has to be VIN-coded to match the specific car. He said a used one will already have been VIN coded, so only a brand new "blank" one will work. Is this true?

2) If a used shifter assembly will work, how would I go about getting it VIN coded to my car? Would I need to take it to a dealership for this? Or to an authorized MB repair shop? Could I get the assembly VIN-coded before I install it in my car, or does it have to be installed and hooked up first?

3) I have a model year 2000 CLK. Can I install a shifter assembly from any year between 1998 and 2003? Are those years all compatible parts-wise?

4) I'm not experienced with any sort of advanced car repair or maintenance work (I have changed tires, installed batteries), but I feel like I could attempt this one if I had a detailed set of instructions with pictures (or maybe a YouTube video, etc.). Is there something like that available online or could someone who's done this specific repair point me in the right direction?

FYI, I do not have the OBD "P" codes since I took it to a repair shop to get the problem diagnosed. The mechanic did tell me that the entire shifter assembly needed to be replaced, though. The problem started after taking my car through a car wash and getting the inside cleaned and vacuumed. I guess some liquid got down into the assembly at some point during that process.

Serndipity

I believe what your mechanic is referring to, is that that replacement shift modules need to be VIN specific.

The early W208s (e.g. 1998 and 1999?) did not offer paddle shifting, so a replacement shift module, new or used, for these model years, would not work well.

Paddle shifting was added around MY 2000. The exact production time-frame of features / upgrades, even within a MY, is VIN specific.

Spilled liquids on the center console was an ubiquitous problem that required the replacement of the shift module.

As a result, beginning with production, from April 1, 2001 on, MB installed a 'spill resistant' shift module. Additionally, the engine management system was upgraded (e.g. to Bosch version 2.8), in MY 2001 on.

Long story short, the key is replacing your module with a part number suitable for your specific vehicle VIN. Because there may be an upgraded part that works, I would suggest the following.

If you're in the US, you can search the on-line MB Electronic Parts Catalog (i.e. EPC), by VIN, at no cost, for the current part number. Use the forum search feature for info on how to access the EPC.

Alternatively, your local MB parts department, can also provide the VIN specific part number.

I believe that further forum searching will provide DIY replacement details.

Lastly, mechanically, the 722.6xx transmission has proven to be bullet proof, with the vast majority is issues being caused by failures in one of the 3 the electrical modules. Sadly, with some preventative maintenance, the entire transmission system would be bullet proof.

Ignore that your owner's manual states that the transmission has a lifetime fill and never requires servicing. Based on experience, MB has since recommended that the transmission be serviced at 40,000 and every 40,000 miles thereafter. Specifically.......

The electrics on the conductor plate module, located in the value body, become contaminated with normal wear deposits (e.g. graphite from the clutches). The PM is to change the fluid and filter as now recommended above.

Additionally, the wiring harness, from the transmission can wick fluid onto the transmission control module (i.e. TCM) and cause it to fail. The bushing (a.k.a. pilot bushing) should be checked at each service for leakage and if necessary, replaced.

Wrexial

Thanks for the info, Serndipity. I tried accessing the EPC website "EPCNet Online" but it looks like it's subscription based and costs $75 to join. Is there any way to find out the VIN specific part number I need for free? I suppose I could always call a local dealership to get this info, correct?

I found this listing for a used shifter on eBay that looks like it would work.



So just to confirm, if I:

1) Purchase a VIN-specific used shifter assembly (like the one listed above on eBay)
2) Remove the old/damaged shifter and install the new/used one, following the DIY replacement procedure(s) I find on this site or others

... then the car will start up and drive as it did before the shifter assembly got damaged? Is there anything I'm missing here? Anything I'd need a dealer or mechanic to do in terms of clearing fault codes or programming the electronics inside the shifter assembly, etc.?