Warmregards from Singapore,
may be you would have an idearegarding my problem. My roof goes down without problems but after I drive fora couple of minutes, stop and want to close there is no reaction for roof tocome up. When I then switch off the car, let it rest and "reset" forabout 45 mins. This doesn't happen everytime, sometimes it closes withoutissues. What I have done is to let my local mechanic with a genuine analytic MBprogram check the issue and I have now spent almost 1.5k in exchanging 3 limitswitches that were described as faulty and the problem is still the same, so Iam quite upset about that. In the meantime it seems (unrelated issue) that oneof the roof hydraulic tanks is leaking, so that is something that I may need totake care of later too...). Would you have an idea what could be the root causeof my "reset"problem, would much like to get your comment. With warmregards
PeterSchellenberger

 

I seriously doubt that your problem was due to (3) limit/position switches simultaneously being faulty.

That said, as often the case, when the power roof fails to operate properly, due to low voltage (e.g. less than 11 volts) or replacement of a limit/position switch, the roof might need to be re-synchronized. This is done by opening and closing the roof manually. Doing so, insures that all the switches are set to their correct on/off states, as required at each stage of power roof operation. The detailed procedure to do this is explained in the 'practical hints' section of your owner's manual.

You also mention that one of your roofs hydraulic tanks is leaking. I believe you meant hydraulic cylinders.

A leaking cylinder will not produce the necessary pressure to reliably operate the power roof. Additionally, it could leave some of the limit/position switches out of kilter (e.g. incorrect on/off states), which is likely why there were diagnostic codes. The codes only isolate a problem area, which needs further trouble shooting, before parts are just replaced. All the limit/position switches should have first been checked for proper operation, which only requires a multimeter (e,g, measure voltage and resistance ohms), to verify circuit voltage and that the contacts open/close. Note: make sure that the pressure relief screw is turned back to fully clockwise prior to attempting power roof operation.

The hydraulic cylinders have external and internal rubber seals that deteriorate and leak. The power roof in our A208 uses 7 hydraulic cylinders....see https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/...benz-a208-info for more information.

By far, the usual cylinders that leak, are the rear bow lock and/or case cover units. An external seal leak could easily be checked visually, by removing the carpeting in the case cover area. The cylinders are differential (e.g. 2 way action) and problems with the internal seals would show up by observing the movement (e.g. slow, sluggish, failure to complete) during the corresponding stage of operation.

The above link also provides DIY instructionals as well a pricing to have a faulty cylinder rebuilt.