Need advise!! Please help
09-26-2017, 02:01 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Need advise!! Please help
What's up guys! I was a proud owner of a W210 E430 but it got totalled and I'm looking at purchasing a 2001 CLK 55 AMG coupe that has 114,460 miles and the asking price is $7990. I don't know much about this model and so I need your help on what I need to look out for like common problems and what I should check for. Is the price good for the mileage? Please help and thank you for your help in advance.
Last edited by vishanthram; 09-26-2017 at 02:03 AM.
09-26-2017, 08:19 AM
#2
Super Member
I have had 2...a 430 and 55....over 100K on each....basically car is bullet proof...common issues (cheap fixes) are replacement MAF (throws O2 sensor problem) and crank position sensor (car stalls when hot). Another annoying issue is warning light of BAS turns out to be a faulty brake light switch $15 fix. All three of these are really nothing issues if you can use a screwdriver.
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vishanthram (09-27-2017)
09-27-2017, 11:57 AM
#3
Junior Member
Yup, go for it the W208 CLK chassis is solid. Got a 2001 CLK320 that has 177K miles of smiles on the odometer and still going strong.
Last edited by device2; 09-27-2017 at 11:59 AM.
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vishanthram (09-27-2017)
09-27-2017, 10:21 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Thats awesome to hear! I just wanted to make sure that the vehicle didn't have any know common engine problem or transmission problems anything like that. Your advice very good to hear. I really need a car to go anywhere. I'm a Marine and i've been stuck to my barracks room for about a month because i wanted to saved my money to buy a car rather to spend it on taxi. I am very good with working on things myself and so when those mentioned problems happen, i will fix them myself. Any other things should look into when buying the car? Also is the asking price fair?
09-28-2017, 09:45 AM
#5
Junior Member
Vishanthram,
Are looking at getting the vehicle from a dealer or private seller, check Kelley Blue Book value for the car and TrueCar.
That way you can make the best informed decision, unless you are going for looks and self indulgence. At which point the only important part is what you are personally willing to pay. As others have said the W208 is solid, I have the 320 (V6 engine) I do all my own maintenance too so cost are kept low and most spending is down to parts and tools. Mercedes are a bit pricy at least parts can be if you stick to buying brand name. You can get Original Manufacture parts minus the added MB brand name much cheaper, same part and quality. Also maintenance cost are up there if you take it to a stealership, it's usually more economical to find a reputable Independent shop and cost for maintenance beyond your normal scope are knocked by half. The usual European mechanic rate for is about $65 per hour if not more.
Having the autohobby shop on base can be a great resource and aid to keep cost down come maintenance time.
S/F.
Are looking at getting the vehicle from a dealer or private seller, check Kelley Blue Book value for the car and TrueCar.
That way you can make the best informed decision, unless you are going for looks and self indulgence. At which point the only important part is what you are personally willing to pay. As others have said the W208 is solid, I have the 320 (V6 engine) I do all my own maintenance too so cost are kept low and most spending is down to parts and tools. Mercedes are a bit pricy at least parts can be if you stick to buying brand name. You can get Original Manufacture parts minus the added MB brand name much cheaper, same part and quality. Also maintenance cost are up there if you take it to a stealership, it's usually more economical to find a reputable Independent shop and cost for maintenance beyond your normal scope are knocked by half. The usual European mechanic rate for is about $65 per hour if not more.
Having the autohobby shop on base can be a great resource and aid to keep cost down come maintenance time.
S/F.
Last edited by device2; 09-28-2017 at 10:00 AM.
09-28-2017, 05:29 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Vishanthram.......IMHO, the asking price seems to be somewhat on the high side. I would strongly suggest checking KBB, CarGuru, NADA, TrueCar etc. for current pricing, as well as having a qualified shop do an inspection (e.g. motor mounts, brake lines, leaks, suspension etc.).
I've owned my 2001 CLK320 cabriolet since new and as others have said, mechanically, these cars have proven to be extremely reliable.
After many years of reading this board regarding transmission issues, the vast majority of issues have been electrical in nature and more importantly, preventable.
Specifically:
1. Although the owner's manual states that the transmission as having a life time fluid fill and no service required, MB has since discovered otherwise, with a recommendation that it be serviced at 40K miles and every 40K miles thereafter. This solved the issue of wear contamination (e.g. Graphite clutches) causing failure of the conductor plate module, located inside the transmission. The service is basically changing the transmission fluid and filter.
2. There is a wiring harness that runs from the transmission control unit and the transmission. However, where the harness exits the transmission, though a bushing, fluid leakage has been a very common problem. Fluid can wick along the harness and cause the the main control unit to fail. Fortunately a fairly inexpensive and redesigned pilot bushing has been made available, to prevent this problem.
A qualified shop should be able replace the fluid, filter, pan gasket and pilot busing for around $300.
3. A liquid spill onto the center console, will usually causes a shift control module, located underneath, to fail. FYI, MB updated the shift control module, to be spill resistant, on W208s produced on/after 4/1/2001.
Lastly, as preventive maintenance, I would replaced the idler pulley (a.k.a guide pulley). This is a plastic pulley with a single bearing. Being the smallest of all the pulleys in the accessory belt system, it spins the fastest and as a result, either the bearing seizes and/or the pulley's plastic body breaks apart. When this occurs, you loose power braking/steering, engine cooling, alternator charging the battery, as well as collateral damage (e.g. serpentine belt, engine overheating etc.) The cost of a new replacement pulley is around $10 and it's was a very easy DIY. When I replaced mine at 85K miles, I found 3 beginning hair-line fractures.
Let us know what you decide to do.
I've owned my 2001 CLK320 cabriolet since new and as others have said, mechanically, these cars have proven to be extremely reliable.
After many years of reading this board regarding transmission issues, the vast majority of issues have been electrical in nature and more importantly, preventable.
Specifically:
1. Although the owner's manual states that the transmission as having a life time fluid fill and no service required, MB has since discovered otherwise, with a recommendation that it be serviced at 40K miles and every 40K miles thereafter. This solved the issue of wear contamination (e.g. Graphite clutches) causing failure of the conductor plate module, located inside the transmission. The service is basically changing the transmission fluid and filter.
2. There is a wiring harness that runs from the transmission control unit and the transmission. However, where the harness exits the transmission, though a bushing, fluid leakage has been a very common problem. Fluid can wick along the harness and cause the the main control unit to fail. Fortunately a fairly inexpensive and redesigned pilot bushing has been made available, to prevent this problem.
A qualified shop should be able replace the fluid, filter, pan gasket and pilot busing for around $300.
3. A liquid spill onto the center console, will usually causes a shift control module, located underneath, to fail. FYI, MB updated the shift control module, to be spill resistant, on W208s produced on/after 4/1/2001.
Lastly, as preventive maintenance, I would replaced the idler pulley (a.k.a guide pulley). This is a plastic pulley with a single bearing. Being the smallest of all the pulleys in the accessory belt system, it spins the fastest and as a result, either the bearing seizes and/or the pulley's plastic body breaks apart. When this occurs, you loose power braking/steering, engine cooling, alternator charging the battery, as well as collateral damage (e.g. serpentine belt, engine overheating etc.) The cost of a new replacement pulley is around $10 and it's was a very easy DIY. When I replaced mine at 85K miles, I found 3 beginning hair-line fractures.
Let us know what you decide to do.
Last edited by Serndipity; 09-28-2017 at 05:32 PM.
