So I always use the roof in manual mode due to hydraulic oil leaking once and never could figure out if worth it to fix it since the car has issues cosmetically anyway. In any case.... sorry to come across as a newb but I would greatly appreciate any advice for the following. I can donate to site if needed. My mechanic did not know how to fix. In a nutshell for some reason i can dump the soft top into the back per usual but when i try to close the metal closure on top of trunk the latch wont penetrate ( for lack of better word lol) the receiving metal portion. This portion is the same portion that requires the benz wrench tool to open the metal portion to allow the soft top to be pulled out. I have tried the tool but the receiving latch here stays closed and stuck and will not accept the incoming cobalt blue metal closure to lock it all down in place. There is nothing visible in the way nor those annoying side flaps. Any input i smuch appreciated! Thank you so much.

 

well i made progress and was able to get latch down and issue seems to be trunk is staying open and keeps opening on its own as if there is pressur eon it. I was able to get metal latch to stay in place and locked to fully secure the top down. Problem is now the trunk is jarred out ward about 10-20 degrees.

Is anyone aware how to fix so latch is properly aligned AND trunk can close and no gaps or overlapping. Why is the trunk and or metal closure near trunk able to be manipulated like that by just pressure.

 

Good Morning,
As many folks will attest, the truck latch switch has issues. If the trunk goes down and latches correctly, you will hear it "click" as the truck latched completely down. The vacuum/pressure pump comes on and energizes the system.
if the pump fails it could be for several reasons:
1. The truck latch is faulty, broken vacuum line (doubtful),
2. The pump has a broken impeller.
3. Truck latch is broken and leaking. (these have a HIGH failure rate)

I have experienced the truck latch issue on one vehicle and a pump issue on another. Both where pretty easy fixes. The truck latch is the easiest. I would not mess around like many have done.... go to MB and get a new one!!

The pump is a little more problematic. The actual replacement of the impeller is pretty easy.... however, getting the pump set correctly is a little more involved. The challenge comes in finding the "sweet spot" where the pump fuchion correctly with the vehicle running and not running. Whe the car is just sitting, the battery puts out around 12.65vDC ..... when running it generates around 14.5vDC. This causes the pump to produce varied amounts of output and voltage draw. I endied up fabricating a test station to monitor pressure or vacuum as well as current draw. I also had a 20amp fuse in the line so I would know if it was going to blow a fuse.

The screws that secure the impeller housing is used to adjust everything..... and they are very....VERY touchy!!!! I mean REALLY touchy!!!!

With that said, it only took about 20-30 minute to do the repair (not including building my testy station). Good thing is I now have the station for other vehicles... and it was fun designing and building it. If you are a DIY person.... it is FUN!!!!I purchase the items from McMaster-Carr and Amazon. Total cost was about $65

In short I had around $125 in the total repair. (impeller and test station). Learned a lot and enjoyed the challenge.

Good luck,
Mark