W208 2000 clk320
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Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 535
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From: Franklin, MA
2006 CLK 350/. 2009 CLK 350/2005 Both White
W208 2000 clk320
`Look for some tips on a starter removal and reinstall.
My sons car is being towed home and I am sure it's the starter.
Full power to all systems but nothing when turning the key.
I was not able to find any youtube videos that could help
My sons car is being towed home and I am sure it's the starter.
Full power to all systems but nothing when turning the key.
I was not able to find any youtube videos that could help
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 209
From: Boston North Shore
2001 CLK320 Cabrio
IMHO, sans some further basic troubleshooting you may spend good money to replace the starter (e.g do you mean the starter motor?) and then find out that it was not the problem.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 13
From: Franklin, MA
2006 CLK 350/. 2009 CLK 350/2005 Both White
Oh I understand that completely I just wanted some information in advance that’s all I used to be a mechanic with Mercedes but it’s been a while. And I just want some tips and tricks I found the problem. It turns out that the trunk light indicator was on which KB false reed causing the trunk light to be on and it must be a short somewhere. I disconnected the bulb in the trunk jumped in the car everything‘s OK. The problem was my son as instructed I told him turn on your headlights and try to start the car and tell me if the lights go dim apparently he didn’t do that right because he said they’re still bright. Because I wanted to differentiate whether it was a dead battery or a bad starter . Young generation I guess they don’t want to do much effort anymore it’s pretty sad but the problem is solved
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 209
From: Boston North Shore
2001 CLK320 Cabrio
Great.
The starting system is part new school and part old school.
The new school involves the drive authorization system ( a.k.a DAS), which was implemented to prevent vehicle theft.
When you insert the keyfob into the ignition switch, an encrypted digital commutation occurs that unlocks the steering wheel.
If successful, you'll be able to turn the ignition switch to position 3, which should then start the vehicle.
If the vehicle does not start (i.e. crank), it's because after releasing the steering wheel lock, an additional encrypted digital commutation is sent to engine control module (i.e. ECU), which if successful, then powers the old school (a.k.a. traditional) starting system.
Since you indicted that you were able to fully turn the ignition switch to the start position, I was going to suggest the following, which would completely rule out a DAS malfunction.
Specifically, remove the starter motor starting relay, located in the drivers side fuse/relay box and then using a multimeter, verify that the ECU is property powering the motor starting relay (Note: the contacts for relay's coil are printed in the relay cover).
Thereafter, you're only dealing with basic old school technology, where a good shade tree DIYer should be able to troubleshoot and repair.
The starting system is part new school and part old school.
The new school involves the drive authorization system ( a.k.a DAS), which was implemented to prevent vehicle theft.
When you insert the keyfob into the ignition switch, an encrypted digital commutation occurs that unlocks the steering wheel.
If successful, you'll be able to turn the ignition switch to position 3, which should then start the vehicle.
If the vehicle does not start (i.e. crank), it's because after releasing the steering wheel lock, an additional encrypted digital commutation is sent to engine control module (i.e. ECU), which if successful, then powers the old school (a.k.a. traditional) starting system.
Since you indicted that you were able to fully turn the ignition switch to the start position, I was going to suggest the following, which would completely rule out a DAS malfunction.
Specifically, remove the starter motor starting relay, located in the drivers side fuse/relay box and then using a multimeter, verify that the ECU is property powering the motor starting relay (Note: the contacts for relay's coil are printed in the relay cover).
Thereafter, you're only dealing with basic old school technology, where a good shade tree DIYer should be able to troubleshoot and repair.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 13
From: Franklin, MA
2006 CLK 350/. 2009 CLK 350/2005 Both White
I already know all this stuff like I said I figured it out within three minutes when the car arrived at my house. I was just looking for instructions on how to remove a starter in case that was the problem but as far as doing diagnostics for starters I mean I’ve done many I’m all set one of the simplest way for an amateur is to do a few things that’s what I was explaining in my comment. How to do the basics when the car is not in front of you
I once took my car to a specialist who deals with foreign cars and he was reading all the codes testing these testing that he thought it was the Sam. I was convinced it had something to do with the ABS because supposedly it was checked twice and rebuilt. I finally said to the mechanic listen let’s put a used ABS system in the car get something very close to the existing serial numbers and see what happens. Sure enough I was right this poor guy spent six hours three separate times totaling six hours all for nothing. I’m glad he didn’t charge me because I’m the one who actually figured out what the problem was I just had him program everything after.
Why am I talking about this to explain that I do know how to do diagnostics again it was my son‘s car he was 100 miles away so I was just telling him to do certain things just to make sure before he he told it all the way to my house which now we found out was for nothing . As far as for getting out the short it’s the trunk switch or the trunk motor. The car is rotting on the fenders it has 200,000 miles what did I do to fix it I just remove the bulb and that’s it we’re done
I once took my car to a specialist who deals with foreign cars and he was reading all the codes testing these testing that he thought it was the Sam. I was convinced it had something to do with the ABS because supposedly it was checked twice and rebuilt. I finally said to the mechanic listen let’s put a used ABS system in the car get something very close to the existing serial numbers and see what happens. Sure enough I was right this poor guy spent six hours three separate times totaling six hours all for nothing. I’m glad he didn’t charge me because I’m the one who actually figured out what the problem was I just had him program everything after.
Why am I talking about this to explain that I do know how to do diagnostics again it was my son‘s car he was 100 miles away so I was just telling him to do certain things just to make sure before he he told it all the way to my house which now we found out was for nothing . As far as for getting out the short it’s the trunk switch or the trunk motor. The car is rotting on the fenders it has 200,000 miles what did I do to fix it I just remove the bulb and that’s it we’re done
Last edited by karayjay; Jan 29, 2022 at 08:02 AM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 535
Likes: 13
From: Franklin, MA
2006 CLK 350/. 2009 CLK 350/2005 Both White
No, it was a dead battery because the trunk light was on. I just disconnected the trunk light wire. I’m trying to remember what a starter is like on a 208. I’m sure there’s a ton of YouTube videos they can’t be that hard. I know on the 208 you got a raise the engine, a few inches up for access of removal. Which sucks if you don’t have a lift.
Are we 100% sure that it’s a starter? And not some electrical connection or something to that effect. are you gonna have to take the exhaust down but here’s a good video
Are we 100% sure that it’s a starter? And not some electrical connection or something to that effect. are you gonna have to take the exhaust down but here’s a good video
