CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Check Engine, Can't Pass Smog

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Old Jun 3, 2023 | 02:07 PM
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K McCarthy's Avatar
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2002 CLK 430, 2005 CL600, 2009 Smart Fortwo
Check Engine, Can't Pass Smog


Hi, I am having issues with my car. I have done some troubleshooting already, I know the secondary air pump works, removed one of the hoses to the vacuum controlled valves and air is being pressurized in these hoses. I know the vacuum solenoid to the valves works, removed while at first startup and vacuum is there, also can hear a change when removing and replacing the vacuum line so I think the valves are working. I also replaces both )2 sensors on the right side in response to fault codes viewed earlier. I am not quite sure what my next move should be but I will soon have an expired registration due to failing the smog test. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Jun 10, 2023 | 09:55 AM
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2003 S55 AMG, 2005 C320 Coupe, 2020 Jeep Gladiator Mojave
I'm kind of in the same situation except I had a bunch of other things cascade into not completing the smog readiness parameters. The P0171 and 174 are a sign of too much air. I'd say you either have a vacuum leak or need to clean your MAF from everything I've read. The P0410 could be a sluggish or sticking relay. I had the same code and just replaced the relay since it was relatively cheap and most likely original.

For anyone else have smog readiness issues, my problems began after having a dead battery and the car being down for a couple months. My car wouldn't pass the air injection, O2 heater and catalyst readiness test I believe (this was after driving it for about 40 miles). I knew the air injection pump worked, physically checked the diaphragms on the air injection valves for leak-by with a vacuum pump, removed them, confirmed my exhaust ports weren't plugged, cleaned & installed new gaskets on the air valves, changed my vacuum lines between them and large hose that connects them, and then replaced the changeover valve.
*FWIW, there's a thread where I believe it was Marcus who gave a good write-up on how this works. I thought I saved it for reference but didn't.

After all that I got a check engine light and P0150 O2 sensor bank 2, upstream. I did spray some carb cleaner in the driver's side exhaust port. Could that have led to the 02 sensor failure, maybe, most likely? So then I changed the 02 sensor, started the car, P0150 was still active and P0173 fuel trim bank 2 was now active. I warmed up the car, drove it around the block, parked it. I came back out and started it 10 minutes later and the codes were gone.

So now....I have to either go through the driving procedure to get the smog readiness test out of the way or just drive the damn thing until the parameters are met.

Last edited by S_Holford; Jun 10, 2023 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2023 | 02:17 PM
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2002 CLK 430, 2005 CL600, 2009 Smart Fortwo
Thanks for your answer. Since I am in a hurry to get this fixed I have decided to let someone else have a crack at it. I have an appointment at a shop on Weds. I will let you know what I find out.
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Old Jun 12, 2023 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by K McCarthy
Thanks for your answer. Since I am in a hurry to get this fixed I have decided to let someone else have a crack at it. I have an appointment at a shop on Weds. I will let you know what I find out.
No problem. Please let me know how it goes. I’m about to put my car through the paces again. My troubles didn’t begin until I disconnected my battery. My charcoal canister was also removed 6 months ago and the system is looped….so I’m wondering if that’s contributing as well.
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Old Jun 13, 2023 | 06:45 AM
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https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ine-light.html
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Old Jun 17, 2023 | 02:47 PM
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Well, I took the car to a local independent Mercedes mechanic who has a good reputation in the area. He called me and told me that the air pump wouldn't run, they commanded it on with their service software. The pump has run for me every time, I just start the car cold and check it without forcing it on. Since I was fairly certain that they were missing something I took the car home (without my $240 and still check engine on). The next day I pulled the hose which supplies air from the pump to one of the diverting valves and started the car. The pump came on and I could hear the motor run and feel the air coming out from the hose. I thing if I knew what the car's computer was looking for as a feedback I could find the problem. It's definitely not good that the Star tool couldn't engage the relay though. I also have a DAS tool but when I try and actuate the pump relay I get an error code. It says "Communication Error 8.594.6066"
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