CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Transmission, turbo, or ???

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Old 09-15-2024 | 03:30 PM
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neeillyb's Avatar
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CLK320
Transmission, turbo, or ???

Hey everyone. Beautiful day for a drive with the top down. 200 miles to the river and back for lunch. Car has had some hard shifts 1-2, 2-3 for about a week. Checked fluids, all good, no burn smell in tranny. I have noticed a weird smell, thought maybe just some oil from the valve covers as they are leaking a little. Well, coming off the interstate, stopped for the light, and she needed a little extra gas to get moving and the check engine light came on. Wasn't far from home so backroaded it, and the car would not shift, ran it about 40mph and 3000 rpm for about 5 miles. Got home and in the garage no problem, and here she sits. I ran my ODB scanner on it, and the following codes appeared. P0715 Turbine / Input Shaft Speed Sensor A Circuit, P0161 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2, P0455 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (Gross Leak / No Flow)

I'm going to start my diagnosis as I am able this week, but any hints, suspicions, etc on where to look would be appreciated. This car has been golden for 130,000 miles so I guess it is time for things to go wrong. I am hoping not the transmission or a turbo rebuild, maybe just sensors. I'll take whatever you guys can offer. It is an extra car, so I can tinker, but this is the perfect top down cruising weather and would like to get her back on the road soon. Appreciate any help and will answer any questions if you have them.

Thanks.
Old 09-16-2024 | 03:41 AM
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clk 320
I make efforts to refrain from posting in automotive forums, but you sound like a reasonable person who can construct sentences, here it is:

Evap could be as simple as the fuel filler cap coming loose or losing its sealing properties. The evap system is basically a bunch of hoses, seals, and the charcoal canister. Sometimes those codes can be misleading and not point at the exact cause. If you have troubles filling up, the charcoal could have been destroyed from overfilling. There is a thread somewhere for deleting it.

The box clearly points to the speed sensors on the conductor plate. At such low mileage the box should be otherwise mint, if serviced properly and driven with a modest bit of mechanical sympathy.

Since you have a scanner that reads transmissions, I'd assume you are on the DIY side of the river. If I were you, I'd
1) drop the pan, which automatically forces you to do a partial fluid refresh, about 3-4 litres
2) inspect and take out the connector on the side - if the pilot bushing has been weeping oil it means the outer o-ring has failed, so most likely the inner one has as well. In that case, take TCU out from passenger footwell, open and inspect for oil.

TCU replacement / repair may be in store.

3) drop the valve body and inspect the speed sensors for hairline cracks / chips / wear / anything apart from a mint surface

There are shops that replace just the speed sensors. A new OEM conductor plate is also not expensive.

4) replace pilot bushing (or the two o-rings, if you know what you are doing and can source the proper rings)

---

Finally, the car is very low. If you do DIY, raise it a good amount, so you can work properly, keep the jack in place, and add jack stands, and spare wheels under the sides. If the car falls on you, that's it.

Let us know how it goes.
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DeLasse (09-18-2024)
Old 09-16-2024 | 10:45 PM
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CLK320
Originally Posted by smihb
I make efforts to refrain from posting in automotive forums, but you sound like a reasonable person who can construct sentences, here it is:

Evap could be as simple as the fuel filler cap coming loose or losing its sealing properties. The evap system is basically a bunch of hoses, seals, and the charcoal canister. Sometimes those codes can be misleading and not point at the exact cause. If you have troubles filling up, the charcoal could have been destroyed from overfilling. There is a thread somewhere for deleting it.

The box clearly points to the speed sensors on the conductor plate. At such low mileage the box should be otherwise mint, if serviced properly and driven with a modest bit of mechanical sympathy.

Since you have a scanner that reads transmissions, I'd assume you are on the DIY side of the river. If I were you, I'd
1) drop the pan, which automatically forces you to do a partial fluid refresh, about 3-4 litres
2) inspect and take out the connector on the side - if the pilot bushing has been weeping oil it means the outer o-ring has failed, so most likely the inner one has as well. In that case, take TCU out from passenger footwell, open and inspect for oil.

TCU replacement / repair may be in store.

3) drop the valve body and inspect the speed sensors for hairline cracks / chips / wear / anything apart from a mint surface

There are shops that replace just the speed sensors. A new OEM conductor plate is also not expensive.

4) replace pilot bushing (or the two o-rings, if you know what you are doing and can source the proper rings)

---

Finally, the car is very low. If you do DIY, raise it a good amount, so you can work properly, keep the jack in place, and add jack stands, and spare wheels under the sides. If the car falls on you, that's it.

Let us know how it goes.
Dropped the pan and the valve body tonight. Pretty simple process. Pretty clear the board/sensor is shot. Places my order for the kit, now to wait for delivery. May do a few other things while it’s in the air.

Thanks for the feedback.
Old 09-17-2024 | 04:18 AM
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clk 320
That's a quick win! Did you check solenoid resistance? Might be worthwhile to check the valves on the side, to keep busy till the plate arrives.

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