Can'f find the clunk! 02 CLK55 AMG W208
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CLK55 AMG Cabrio
Can'f find the clunk! 02 CLK55 AMG W208
I have a 2002 Clk55 AMG and the other day I heard a "Clunk" from the right front passenger side. All the expert help I sought concluded it was most likely a control arm bushing. So as the car was going up in the air anyway I had the upper and lower control arms replaced. A camber kit added on both sides. All the ball joints, shocks, the entire tie rod assembly, the steering dampener replaced, And just because it was a little off center I replaced a sway bar bushing. All parts lashed to spec and in for alignment. On the way home from alignment you know what happened, Clunk!!!
So back on the lift checked all the replacement parts inspected the upper and lower spring pad and supports , and just for good measure tightened the three bolts of the steering gear box that are in the drivers side wheel well. All seems in order so I am dumbfounded and need suggestion as to what to do next.
The clunk does not happen all the time, sometimes over a bump sometimes not. It will make the noise when I go in reverse, or apply the brakes or just make a sharp turn and there is no consistency in it and quite frankly it is driving me nuts,
I bought the car in march of this year with 50k miles The first owner was a Mercedes dealer, who sold it to a gentleman in Colorado where it sat garaged with only 8k miles in 5 years. Its black on black and if everyone is telling the truth, italked to both owners before buying it it has only gone through the car wash 6 times in its life. The now 22+ year old paint looks close to showroom perfect. Please if anyone has any suggestion I am open to exploring what ever works.
So back on the lift checked all the replacement parts inspected the upper and lower spring pad and supports , and just for good measure tightened the three bolts of the steering gear box that are in the drivers side wheel well. All seems in order so I am dumbfounded and need suggestion as to what to do next.
The clunk does not happen all the time, sometimes over a bump sometimes not. It will make the noise when I go in reverse, or apply the brakes or just make a sharp turn and there is no consistency in it and quite frankly it is driving me nuts,
I bought the car in march of this year with 50k miles The first owner was a Mercedes dealer, who sold it to a gentleman in Colorado where it sat garaged with only 8k miles in 5 years. Its black on black and if everyone is telling the truth, italked to both owners before buying it it has only gone through the car wash 6 times in its life. The now 22+ year old paint looks close to showroom perfect. Please if anyone has any suggestion I am open to exploring what ever works.
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2001 clk200 avantgarde komp. convertible
Unknown Clunk
Good day from the UK. Have look at your engine and gearbox rubber mountings. If one has split from its bonding. It will allow movement and clunk against the underside bodywork.
You say changing to reverse and breaking or cornering will cause the clunk. There is a lot of weight and torque going on under the car. A split or perished mountain will allow the
engine and gearbox to move.
You say changing to reverse and breaking or cornering will cause the clunk. There is a lot of weight and torque going on under the car. A split or perished mountain will allow the
engine and gearbox to move.
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Joined: Mar 2018
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Clk320 Cabriolet Convertible
2003 clk320 cabriolet with AMG sport package, clunk!
I feel your frustration...my clk320 had been doing the same exact thing! I assumed it had something to do with my front suspension, breaking system commpoents or loose mounts or some body part component was worn or loose.
I knew it had a few components that needed maintenance that i planned on replacing or upgrading so I decided to wait and see if the clunk remained after the planned work was done before I did any specific troubleshooting.
Unfortunately none of the work i had done resolved it. Which includes;
New Larger 17" wheels and rubber.
upgraded to ceramic pads/shoes
drilled and groved rotors.
all 4 wheel bearing replacement.
front upper and lower control arms and bushings.
inspected and lubed all 4 window regulators where possible.
checked accessory and exhaust components for ware, damage or replacement needs.
I repaced ignition coil packs, wires plugs
I couldn't find anything that pinpointed to the "clunking".
It wasn't until I started getting a engine misfire on cylinder 3 p303 error codes /check engine light that i discovered by a pure coincidental luck what was causing the "clunking" noise troubleshooting vacuum li es for leaks.
while up by the fuse box on the driver side of the engine compartment (there are similar ones on the passenger side fender as well) are holes that lead into hollow cavities in the fender. That where I spotted a screw driver and after a little further investigation a 10mm socket at the bottom. Which i imagine were the previous owners.
Once I Removed the items so went the clunks"! I wouldve never thought to look there directly, clunks it did me!
Skip
I knew it had a few components that needed maintenance that i planned on replacing or upgrading so I decided to wait and see if the clunk remained after the planned work was done before I did any specific troubleshooting.
Unfortunately none of the work i had done resolved it. Which includes;
New Larger 17" wheels and rubber.
upgraded to ceramic pads/shoes
drilled and groved rotors.
all 4 wheel bearing replacement.
front upper and lower control arms and bushings.
inspected and lubed all 4 window regulators where possible.
checked accessory and exhaust components for ware, damage or replacement needs.
I repaced ignition coil packs, wires plugs
I couldn't find anything that pinpointed to the "clunking".
It wasn't until I started getting a engine misfire on cylinder 3 p303 error codes /check engine light that i discovered by a pure coincidental luck what was causing the "clunking" noise troubleshooting vacuum li es for leaks.
while up by the fuse box on the driver side of the engine compartment (there are similar ones on the passenger side fender as well) are holes that lead into hollow cavities in the fender. That where I spotted a screw driver and after a little further investigation a 10mm socket at the bottom. Which i imagine were the previous owners.
Once I Removed the items so went the clunks"! I wouldve never thought to look there directly, clunks it did me!
Skip
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Newbie
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 3
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CLK55 AMG Cabrio
Good day from the UK. Have look at your engine and gearbox rubber mountings. If one has split from its bonding. It will allow movement and clunk against the underside bodywork.
You say changing to reverse and breaking or cornering will cause the clunk. There is a lot of weight and torque going on under the car. A split or perished mountain will allow the
engine and gearbox to move.
You say changing to reverse and breaking or cornering will cause the clunk. There is a lot of weight and torque going on under the car. A split or perished mountain will allow the
engine and gearbox to move.
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Newbie
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 3
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CLK55 AMG Cabrio
Sorry should have posted. It turned out to be poor quality sway bar bushings. Because we swapped those first they got checked off the list. On inspection looked to be in great shape,
We tightened the new ones down, nothing on visual inspection, moved onto the next thing. Finally out of pretty much desperation, we started replacing all the bushings and mounts and
when we dropped the way bar we found the interior lining of the bushing had failed. After the purchase of a set of Hotchkis performance bushings with new billet mounts , we dropped the sway bar and cut off all the stock mounts
and installed the prothane bushings and mounts. End of clunk. the failure of a $25 part ended up costing quite a lot of money.
Downside: spent a lot of time and Money and heartache chasing a chimera
Upside: New front suspension, control arms, shocks, springs, tie rod assembly, pitman arm, steering box mounts ,upper and lower ball joints added a
Camber adjustment kit repacked the bearings on the hub, new drilled and slotted rotors, Performance pads, rebuilt calipers and a high quality alignment
She is a beast now 425 at the dyno and tight as a drum
We tightened the new ones down, nothing on visual inspection, moved onto the next thing. Finally out of pretty much desperation, we started replacing all the bushings and mounts and
when we dropped the way bar we found the interior lining of the bushing had failed. After the purchase of a set of Hotchkis performance bushings with new billet mounts , we dropped the sway bar and cut off all the stock mounts
and installed the prothane bushings and mounts. End of clunk. the failure of a $25 part ended up costing quite a lot of money.
Downside: spent a lot of time and Money and heartache chasing a chimera
Upside: New front suspension, control arms, shocks, springs, tie rod assembly, pitman arm, steering box mounts ,upper and lower ball joints added a
Camber adjustment kit repacked the bearings on the hub, new drilled and slotted rotors, Performance pads, rebuilt calipers and a high quality alignment
She is a beast now 425 at the dyno and tight as a drum
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 40
Likes: 2
CLK430
Sorry should have posted. It turned out to be poor quality sway bar bushings. Because we swapped those first they got checked off the list. On inspection looked to be in great shape,
We tightened the new ones down, nothing on visual inspection, moved onto the next thing. Finally out of pretty much desperation, we started replacing all the bushings and mounts and
when we dropped the way bar we found the interior lining of the bushing had failed. After the purchase of a set of Hotchkis performance bushings with new billet mounts , we dropped the sway bar and cut off all the stock mounts
and installed the prothane bushings and mounts. End of clunk. the failure of a $25 part ended up costing quite a lot of money.
Downside: spent a lot of time and Money and heartache chasing a chimera
Upside: New front suspension, control arms, shocks, springs, tie rod assembly, pitman arm, steering box mounts ,upper and lower ball joints added a
Camber adjustment kit repacked the bearings on the hub, new drilled and slotted rotors, Performance pads, rebuilt calipers and a high quality alignment
She is a beast now 425 at the dyno and tight as a drum
We tightened the new ones down, nothing on visual inspection, moved onto the next thing. Finally out of pretty much desperation, we started replacing all the bushings and mounts and
when we dropped the way bar we found the interior lining of the bushing had failed. After the purchase of a set of Hotchkis performance bushings with new billet mounts , we dropped the sway bar and cut off all the stock mounts
and installed the prothane bushings and mounts. End of clunk. the failure of a $25 part ended up costing quite a lot of money.
Downside: spent a lot of time and Money and heartache chasing a chimera
Upside: New front suspension, control arms, shocks, springs, tie rod assembly, pitman arm, steering box mounts ,upper and lower ball joints added a
Camber adjustment kit repacked the bearings on the hub, new drilled and slotted rotors, Performance pads, rebuilt calipers and a high quality alignment
She is a beast now 425 at the dyno and tight as a drum
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