CLK-Class (W208) 1998-2002: CLK 200, CLK 230K, CLK 320, CLK 430 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Electricity problems with CLK year 2000

Old Jun 24, 2025 | 05:09 PM
  #1  
itarumaa's Avatar
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W208 year 2000 3.2l v6 auto
Electricity problems with CLK year 2000

Hi,

greetings from Finland. I have year 2000 CLK, 3.2l v6 aut. Driven about 152 000km. I have problems with it and I have done a quite much investigation together with an AI. Please see below the results.🧾 W208 CLK Parasitic Draw Diagnostic Summary

Owner: Autio Vehicle: Mercedes-Benz W208 CLK Issue: Excessive battery drain when parked Normal Draw Target: ~0.04–0.05 A Original Draw: ~0.57 A

✅ Final Diagnosis Overview

Status

Total Draw

Notes

All fuses removed

~0.04 A

Healthy sleeping current

All fuses in

~0.57 A

Excessive draw diagnosed

Problem fuses removed

~0.05 A

Acceptable resting state achieved

🔌 Fuse-Level Draw Findings

Trunk Fuses

Fuse

Draw (A)

Systems Powered

Remarks

5

0.34

Trunk light

Light stays on; switch misreads closed trunk

6

0.09

PSE, alarm prep (possible)

Suspected partial wake trigger

9

0.09

Interior lighting delay

Light/delay module may stay awake

10

0.09

Soft top ECU, rear SAM

Could be retaining memory or misfiring

11

0.09

Comfort access, antenna amp

Potential for backfeed

Under-Hood Fuses

Fuse

Draw (A)

Systems Powered

Remarks

8

0.10

Seat/mirror adjustment (L), heater, locking

Comfort module may stay live

17

0.10

Seat/mirror adjustment (R), heater, locking

Mirror heater logic may be affected by ambient sensor

26

0.42

Instrument cluster, HVAC panel, residual heat

Major draw—cluster or heater system not sleeping

41

0.10

Residual heater, horn, rear defroster

Heater pump likely culprit

🧩 Connected Issues
  • Ambient temp sensor (front bumper): History of malfunction → may trigger mirror heaters (F8/F17) and residual heat logic (F26/F41)
  • Cluster wake signal (F26): Prevents CAN sleep → causes draw across other fuses
  • Soft top ECU & PSE (F10/F6): Systems known to stay active longer than they should
  • Interior delay relays (F9/F11): Can hold voltage longer if capacitor/memory circuit fails
🛠 Recommendations
  • Repair or adjust trunk light switch/latch
  • Consider isolating mirror heater circuits if ambient temp errors continue
  • Unplug or test cluster, PSE, soft top ECU individually to confirm sleeper draw
  • Evaluate replacing or disabling residual heater relay/module if not used
Quite many problems as you can see. I have done some car wrapping and both mirrors were removed multiple times. I had to create then new electricity connections for the heating part. I stripped the ends of the wires and used a shrink connector with tin.I think this should be ok connection so I do not think this is the main cause of the problem. Also at least 2-3 years I have had problems with ambient temp sensor that shows the outdoor temperature. Would be great to fix this one as well. Currently today was a quite good day and I have been improving a lot. When I started to search the problems the amps leak was quite high, even 3-4 amps, now it is 0.57-0.60 A. I use digital multimeter to measure this. So, what should I do next, any ideas?
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Old Jun 24, 2025 | 07:51 PM
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From: Hollywood, CA
W209, W124
I don’t know what all that text is, doesn’t it say your trunk light stays on? Or is that just a list of guesses?
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Old Jun 25, 2025 | 02:11 AM
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itarumaa's Avatar
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W208 year 2000 3.2l v6 auto
AI was quite eager to think trunk light is faulty, but it is not. This car is mystery case, but when I measured yesterday I was able to get some results:

The problem fuses that draw current are:

Trunk fuses
5,6,9,10,11

Under the hood fuses
8,17,26 and 41

So quite a list. I think they are connected somehow. When those fuses are NOT in place, the current draw is around 0.05 A, this is ok I think.
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