Change out the radiator coolant
#3
Omar26 wth is the BG ?? lolz and can i do it by myself?? Ok I just want to do a simple flush like just changing out the old coolant and refill with the new one I mean thats it lolz. Do you know where to refill after u drain it?? I heard there is no radiator cap on our car so is that true??
#4
My CLK owners manual tells me to change the coolant at 15 years or 115k miles, so there is no need for you to panic! Just make sure that the anti-freeze ratio is correct - unless you are in Florida of course.
I do have the details on my WIS that I could post here if you really are interested. It looks fairly straight-forward, but you would have to get underneath the car with the covers removed.
I do have the details on my WIS that I could post here if you really are interested. It looks fairly straight-forward, but you would have to get underneath the car with the covers removed.
#5
My CLK owners manual tells me to change the coolant at 15 years or 115k miles, so there is no need for you to panic! Just make sure that the anti-freeze ratio is correct - unless you are in Florida of course.
I do have the details on my WIS that I could post here if you really are interested. It looks fairly straight-forward, but you would have to get underneath the car with the covers removed.
I do have the details on my WIS that I could post here if you really are interested. It looks fairly straight-forward, but you would have to get underneath the car with the covers removed.
Thanks,
Andy
#6
Omar26 wth is the BG ?? lolz and can i do it by myself?? Ok I just want to do a simple flush like just changing out the old coolant and refill with the new one I mean thats it lolz. Do you know where to refill after u drain it?? I heard there is no radiator cap on our car so is that true??
BG is a company tht has different flush machines n conditoners for cars. most dealers use BG products
#7
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#9
#10
The cabin filter is located on top of the battery. Replace coolant is best by using the coolant flush machine to remove/exchange 100%. For DIY, to remove 100% old coolant, you MUST remove the drain plug on the block, if not only the old coolant from the radiator come out.
#11
Here's the info from a screen save of my WIS DVD.
I hasten to say that I have not done the job myself. It seems that you drain at two places. The coolant quantity, spec and anti-freeze ratio are on another page.
Clipped Items 1 & 2 are just about opening the hood, and removing the cover under the engine. Note that you fill at the radiator expansion tank.
I hasten to say that I have not done the job myself. It seems that you drain at two places. The coolant quantity, spec and anti-freeze ratio are on another page.
Clipped Items 1 & 2 are just about opening the hood, and removing the cover under the engine. Note that you fill at the radiator expansion tank.
#12
so there are two plugs that I need to loose right ??
1st : the radiator drain plug
2nd: the crankcase drain plug
then after that u just refill from the compensation tank. Am I missing anything ???
Andy
1st : the radiator drain plug
2nd: the crankcase drain plug
then after that u just refill from the compensation tank. Am I missing anything ???
Andy
#13
Andy
#14
I assume that this means that after the refill you must get any trapped air out of the coolant circuit. To do this you would have to run the engine briefly to get the water pump operating. Leave the cap off the compensation tank while doing this and note any bubbles coming up. Finally, top-up the coolant to the correct level if required.
Maybe also put the heater on to let the hot water get to that area. (I'm not sure if M-B use a heat exchanger there)
I do know that an air lock in the coolant system can stop the heater working. Do you have the water/anti-freeze proportions already?
#15
Further thoughts on this topic.
1) I misled you about item 2 on the WIS.
#2 Disconnect battery ground if draining at crankcase. I assume that the water might gush onto connectors, etc. Obviously you would reconnect when draining is complete. Personally I would omit this step and just take care.
2) The anti-freeze type is important for your engine. Mobil GS 333 Extra is one of many listed as it contains anti-corrosion agents. Recommended proportion is 50% water/50% AF. Total quantity of coolant in the system is 11.5 liters.
3) From doing this job on other cars, I remember that a very slow fill of the coolant mixture is the best procedure to prevent air-locks.
1) I misled you about item 2 on the WIS.
#2 Disconnect battery ground if draining at crankcase. I assume that the water might gush onto connectors, etc. Obviously you would reconnect when draining is complete. Personally I would omit this step and just take care.
2) The anti-freeze type is important for your engine. Mobil GS 333 Extra is one of many listed as it contains anti-corrosion agents. Recommended proportion is 50% water/50% AF. Total quantity of coolant in the system is 11.5 liters.
3) From doing this job on other cars, I remember that a very slow fill of the coolant mixture is the best procedure to prevent air-locks.
#16
No.......you should do the hard one first like the crankcase drain plug. If you can't remove the crankcase plug then don't waste your time and money by DIY. The coolant system on the Clk is self bleed system. That's why you see the tiny hose that connected from the upper radiator to the coolant reservior. That's hose allow air ro escape. Just fill up the coolant reservior until it full and tight the cap. By closed the cap allow pressure to build up and that pressure will activate the thermostat to open and allow water to circulate and bleed out the air. Run your engine with heater for at least 5-10 mins until it reach operating temp. Then shut it down and top of the coolant reservior. Be really carefull opening the coolant cap when the engine is hot. Good luck.
#17
No.......you should do the hard one first like the crankcase drain plug. If you can't remove the crankcase plug then don't waste your time and money by DIY. The coolant system on the Clk is self bleed system. That's why you see the tiny hose that connected from the upper radiator to the coolant reservior. That's hose allow air ro escape. Just fill up the coolant reservior until it full and tight the cap. By closed the cap allow pressure to build up and that pressure will activate the thermostat to open and allow water to circulate and bleed out the air. Run your engine with heater for at least 5-10 mins until it reach operating temp. Then shut it down and top of the coolant reservior. Be really carefull opening the coolant cap when the engine is hot. Good luck.
#18
2003-2006 Clk model are the same chassis (w209) and so I would think it in the same location I mentioned in my other post. It would be really costly for tooling if Mercedes changed the location of the cabin filter. I also own an 2001 Clk 430 (w208) and the cabin filter is under the glove box like many other older Mercedes model.
#19
2003-2006 Clk model are the same chassis (w209) and so I would think it in the same location I mentioned in my other post. It would be really costly for tooling if Mercedes changed the location of the cabin filter. I also own an 2001 Clk 430 (w208) and the cabin filter is under the glove box like many other older Mercedes model.
#22
Here is the cabin filter on a RHD UK car. Your's may be on the other side.
Get used to removing it because your battery lives underneath. Undo 3 clips, and 'unhook' the plastic assembly. The replaceable paper filter element is beneath. It can be a hassle to refit the plastic box - it has to be in exactly the right position for the clips to work.
Get used to removing it because your battery lives underneath. Undo 3 clips, and 'unhook' the plastic assembly. The replaceable paper filter element is beneath. It can be a hassle to refit the plastic box - it has to be in exactly the right position for the clips to work.
#23
Here is the cabin filter on a RHD UK car. Your's may be on the other side.
Get used to removing it because your battery lives underneath. Undo 3 clips, and 'unhook' the plastic assembly. The replaceable paper filter element is beneath. It can be a hassle to refit the plastic box - it has to be in exactly the right position for the clips to work.
Get used to removing it because your battery lives underneath. Undo 3 clips, and 'unhook' the plastic assembly. The replaceable paper filter element is beneath. It can be a hassle to refit the plastic box - it has to be in exactly the right position for the clips to work.
Andy