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Brake pad rotation

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Old 06-17-2009, 08:44 PM
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09CLK550Cab 61k miles
Brake pad rotation

So here's an unusual idea:

My rear brakes squeak, and the dealership said it needs new rotors and pads. It's not due to wear it's due to the grooves in the rear rotors. Or so they say.

So it's $570 for pads and rotors, so that's too much for a squeak.

What if I did something crazy and ROTATED my pads on the rear brakes (either swap the two on a single rotor, or swap left rotor with right rotor).

I mean, what will that do? Is it bad? Will bad things happen? Or am I limited to a worst case of no improvement?

I think it might be the best thing ever since it will reduce grooving!
Old 06-18-2009, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by trikoid
So here's an unusual idea:

What if I did something crazy and ROTATED my pads on the rear brakes (either swap the two on a single rotor, or swap left rotor with right rotor).

I think it might be the best thing ever since it will reduce grooving!

Rotated the pads from left to right won't cause any problem. Rotated the rotors from left to right will cause premature wear on some rotors in the longer run. Most high performances rotors, like cross/drilled rotors can only install one way. Just like directional tires can only install one way and can not be rotates for better wear. The center/inside part of the rotor design is very importance. The grove you see inside is designed in a way to channel the air throught for better cooling of the rotors. In a non-high performance rotor, the grove as neutral. Which mean the rotors can spin each direction and still get the same amount of air throught the rotors. On high performances rotors, the grove is designed one direction for maximun air flow throught the rotors for maximun protection to prevent over heat of the rotors. Just like in direction tire, if you install the tires wrong way, the grove on the tire will no longer able to channel the way fast enough and the car will start to hydroplane. Most people can't tell which way to install the cross/drilled rotor by looking at it, the rules of thump is, you want the rotor "suck" air throught the rotors and not force air throught it. Because force air creates drags, drags creates weight and weight waste horse power.


If your car still on your original pads, which mean your rotors are still good (mine still on original pads with 45k miles), I recommended you get new pads and re-surfaces your rotors (about $15 ea. rotors at any auto parts). This is almost like getting new rotors and pads. I believe mercedes does not recommend resurface the rotors on some models.

Last edited by Klinh; 06-18-2009 at 12:59 AM.
Old 06-18-2009, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Klinh
I believe mercedes does not recommend resurface the rotors on some models.
yeah my car (they said the rotor is soft....and not to turn it)
Old 06-18-2009, 07:32 AM
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Yes, my dealership says that they never, ever turn rotors, since they start out so thin anyway. But I could go to some shop and do it to smooth them out.

I have OE rotors, so they are flat and plane, not slotted or drilled.

And I think I wasn't clear in my first email. I meant swapping pads only (not rotors).

So my idea was either to:
1. Switch positions of the two pads on a single rotor (so for the left rotor, swap the two pads, and install them in the reverse direction).

2. Switch pads from left rotor with the right rotor, so the left pair of pads would move to the right rotor, keeping the same direction.

Does any one know if pads are directional?

Option 1 is definitely easier, since I can jack up one tire at a time.

Any votes? I know I'm being cheap, but it's free!
Old 06-18-2009, 04:55 PM
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i would buy some new pads since you will have the car up and pads off....i just changed my pads it cost me $56....very F...ing Easy.

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