Turbo questions
btw. what muffler did you get and hat size inlet and outlet?
Exhaust Manifold
Turbocharger
Intercooler
Hot and Cold Pipes (Intercooler)
Test Pipe and Down Pipe (Exhaust)
Upgraded Exhaust (no cat, no resonator)
Then Fuel Management:
Fuel Injectors
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Fuel Pump
Then you would most likely have to use a wideband tune rather than an ECU tune unless you know a good dyno tuner that does custom work. Best bet is to use a wideband though being you're running a unique setup.
Internal wise, built bottom end will always help.
And I know I'm missing some other stuff, but thats basics. Probably gonna run you a pretty penny. But I'm not letting out my secret setup I'm working on for my car so I just give you basics. :p
He's considering on setting up the turbo near the exhaust..
My only question was that, if our Cars are made to handle turbos?
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Exhaust Manifold
Turbocharger
Intercooler
Hot and Cold Pipes (Intercooler)
Test Pipe and Down Pipe (Exhaust)
Upgraded Exhaust (no cat, no resonator)
Then Fuel Management:
Fuel Injectors
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Fuel Pump
Then you would most likely have to use a wideband tune rather than an ECU tune unless you know a good dyno tuner that does custom work. Best bet is to use a wideband though being you're running a unique setup.
Internal wise, built bottom end will always help.
And I know I'm missing some other stuff, but thats basics. Probably gonna run you a pretty penny. But I'm not letting out my secret setup I'm working on for my car so I just give you basics. :p
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Then you find the turbo that meets your needs, then times that by two. Then you need two wastegate, i recommend Tial because that is what i run and have ran on previous cars and it holds great power. Dual exhaust manifold, dual Down Pipe, Dual intercooler charge core system and customer intake manifold. Then EMS, boost controller, EGT guage, Wideband, etc... to put togerther a detailed list it will take probably a full page.
Also 3k? i dont think so for a quality build, for example Dual GT35R DBB water turbo and dual Tial 44m Wastegate brand new will run you close to that price. Thats two turbo, two wastegate.
Not trying to put you down, just being realistic, i would love for you to prove me wrong but i dont think you can pull it off for that price. For me, i would not put cheap parts on the CLK, i sure didnt put cheap parts on my supra for my single turbo build and im telling you from expereice its expensive.
. I always want to drop a supercharger on the 350, but I kind of want to keep the CLK as a collector's car. I don't really want to kill the car. But anyways, that would be cool if someone did mod their 350.-Kevin
Then you find the turbo that meets your needs, then times that by two. Then you need two wastegate, i recommend Tial because that is what i run and have ran on previous cars and it holds great power. Dual exhaust manifold, dual Down Pipe, Dual intercooler charge core system and customer intake manifold. Then EMS, boost controller, EGT guage, Wideband, etc... to put togerther a detailed list it will take probably a full page.
Also 3k? i dont think so for a quality build, for example Dual GT35R DBB water turbo and dual Tial 44m Wastegate brand new will run you close to that price. Thats two turbo, two wastegate.
Not trying to put you down, just being realistic, i would love for you to prove me wrong but i dont think you can pull it off for that price. For me, i would not put cheap parts on the CLK, i sure didnt put cheap parts on my supra for my single turbo build and im telling you from expereice its expensive.
I guess This mod is going have to take sometime to think about.
Also, are you saying that I should to TT, rather than single?
you're basically starting with a car that has to have EVERYTHING done from scratch. most likely you'll be adapting fuel management from other AMG cars such as injectors, pump, etc. your computer wont ever be switched out for an e-tune or enthalpy or anything crazy and you'll have to go stand alone wideband for tuning. he'll have to custom fab your manifold if you go with a front mounted turbo/s.
part wise, a good reliable high boost turbo is going to run you in the ballpark from 500-1000 depending on who you choose and what sizes you go with. so that can easily already be 1/3 of your 3k. so like AZ said, $3000 is going to put you in a predicament of blowing your motor into shreds. honestly, i'd be worried he's going to use BS parts to make you a fully custom builf for 3k. and then tuning, you're not going to find many out there. so if you're going to do any of this project just make sure you understand your car is NOT going to be reliable.
and im sure AZ can pitch in as well, but i've blown the **** out of my first turbo motor, then swapped and did basic bolt ons and engine management and built a reliable boost car. so i know in detail what im talking about. trust us on this. you really need to know your stuff about boost before playing with a car that has nothing readily available for it.
you can always go the route of used stuff and that fine if you acutally check it all before installing, like play in the turbo, flow chart the injectors, deslang any use metal parts, etc...
I am really not pushing you away from what you want, heck i would love to turbo my clk but in the end the cost vs. the final outcome is not worth it for me. If you really want i'll do a parts/cost brake down of what i have in my single turbo build and you can see what it cost but keep in mind that mine came forced induction from the factory so alot of the parts are there already.
chrislis,
Thanks! you seem very know your stuff as well, glad to meet someone who has knowledge he is willing to share in a constructive way.
you can always go the route of used stuff and that fine if you acutally check it all before installing, like play in the turbo, flow chart the injectors, deslang any use metal parts, etc...
I am really not pushing you away from what you want, heck i would love to turbo my clk but in the end the cost vs. the final outcome is not worth it for me. If you really want i'll do a parts/cost brake down of what i have in my single turbo build and you can see what it cost but keep in mind that mine came forced induction from the factory so alot of the parts are there already.
chrislis,
Thanks! you seem very know your stuff as well, glad to meet someone who has knowledge he is willing to share in a constructive way.
So, I talk to the guy yesterday and he was telling me the most cost is going to be on injectors and fuel pump. And Hes considering to use a t3 turbo boosting at 6 psi. Oh and the turbo is connected with the exhaust (replacing the muffler).
But if you can give me the break down of the parts for a single turbo and that great.
Custom Sp 63mm turbo $600-1200
SS manifold, braced, de-slanged and slight polish for flow $200-2000 (depending on brand, custom or mass produced)
horse power freaks 3 row intercooler kit with black pipes $1500
tial 44mm wastegate $250-400
tial 50mm BOV in red $150-350
apexi gt spec exhaust with 3.75 piping $500-1000
Greddy mid-pipe $250
Custom Downpipe $150
MVP Carbonfiber cooling plate $200
Magnaflow High flow Cat/converter $200
Innovate Billet Catch can with breather $150
MVP polished uppper radiator pipe $125
EGT bung welded and DEI wraped downpipe $150
4' aluminum intake w/ new filter $250
-10an Fitting and SS oil return line $125
-6an fitting and SS line/ turbo feed $80
map ecu 1 $650
field harness $300
progressive meth kit $550
AEM Uego Wideband $250
Greddy FATT silver turbo timer $120
Greddy Profect B Spec II black $425
Glowshift Step motor Boost $80
Glowshift Step Motor EGT $110
GlowShift dual pillar pod $40
OE Toyo Trans, rebuilt, enlarged valve $1500
Precision 3800 stall converter
Trans cooler kit $400
**also remember the cost of labor, i did alot of stuff myself (small stuff), but also had to send the cars to different shop due to time constaints. If you have plenty of time and could handle your car being down for a few weeks or months at a time then go at it. But remember to consider labor.
Also remember im running stock fuel for my Supra, 550cc injectors and all. I am making over 550+rwhp with meth injection.
since yours in N/A you need to figure out your fuel needs, you can add $1000+ for injectors if you need it, another $200-300 for a second fuel pump if you need it,
custom fuel rail, SS lines to get the fuel from the tank to the rail, FPR $300, etc...
Then your transmission, how much can it really handle? can you afford a custom built one if you push the power envelope, are you will to swap a GM trans like 480le (4spd with overdrive)?
can you hand the custom build cost of over 2k for the trans and another few thousand for bell housing, drive shaft and such? then what about your diff, axels, tie rods? etc...
So plan what HP you want, work from there. The T3 foot print turbo is great for no lag, but with a V8 and the TRQ it brings you will most likely have a ON/OFF type throttle/power response.
Not fun IMO. you want something you can stay out of boost when you want to but still offer quick spool, i chose the 630 with a high stall, i can stay out of boost with light throttle, but
have instant boost reponse when i mash it.
Ask your "builder" what is included in the 3k, get a list and report back and i'll point out things that are missing.
And honestly the TUNE is probably one of the most important part of the whole thing when it comes to reliability and power. I tell people to pick the tuner, then work
with him to map out the power, build, and budget. A good tuner will know what works with what, and a relistic power goal. Heck, I can hop on ebay and piece together a "kit" for you,
for what you want but it will not last, ive been there and in the end you pay more then you would have if you just did it right the first time. A good tune from the ground up can run anywhere from 500-1500. This is due to a well know tuneable car (like the supra) or a flat out ground up tune. Im just not talking about setting your A/F correct, im talking about timing, safty retards, and overall driveability
"Hes considering to use a t3 turbo boosting at 6 psi. Oh and the turbo is connected with the exhaust (replacing the muffler)"
6psi is a joke, the only time i ever see people run that is maybe OEM (but even then most are setting boost at 1bar from the factory) or if they have a **** kit and did not build it correctly to handle decent boost. I would be willing to bet you will be dissapointed in the power at 6psi, i would want 10+ at the very least.
Also of course the turbo will sit in the line of exhaust gas, that where it gets the spool from! if he is planing to mount the turbo under the car after the header/coller to avoid build a new manifold for you then that would work but you will have lag and a trubo that is sitting under your car, and now have to deal with ground clearance issue. Ive seen people do this but the turbo is litterally mounted where your muffler is right now, talk about a long charge pipe and lag...
My honest advice is say no to the turbo. Get some headders, a real full exhaust, and go nitrous. A wet kit installed correct will give you 100rwhp.
Last edited by AzCamel; Oct 27, 2009 at 06:36 PM.
Last edited by MB Dave; Oct 29, 2009 at 12:29 AM.



