!!!!!!!HELP!!!!!! Brake Rotor Removel
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From: Hampton, GA
CLK500 SPORT
!!!!!!!HELP!!!!!! Brake Rotor Removel
hey guys can't get my front brake rotor off....took the caliper off and removed the screw from the rotor but the rotor will not move....am i missing something...i have been kicking it to see if its just rust but no luck
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Flame3g,
Use the "search" feature PLEASE !!!!!! I and many others from other forum posted it before. All you need is can of corrosion eater, rubber hammer and a couple beers for the job. Btw, the rear is even hard because of the parking brake.
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From: Hampton, GA
CLK500 SPORT
didn't do the rears yet wanted to try out these new rotors first......i will probably let sonic ms do the rears when they put my springs and stuff on.....mine were rusted on pretty good just make sure u get some wd-40 and a good rubber mallet
Last edited by Flame3g; Feb 13, 2010 at 10:24 PM.
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The rust build up is normal. Get one of those rust penetration can from Autozone work best.
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2001 E55, 2002 ML55, 2002 SL500, 2003 CLK55
Sometimes nothing will work other than a good whack from a metal mallet.
No waiting and it'll come off after a couple of good whacks.
Remember to keep the retaining screw on but loose so that it will allow the rotor to be loosened but not enough that the rotor will fall off.
No waiting and it'll come off after a couple of good whacks.
Remember to keep the retaining screw on but loose so that it will allow the rotor to be loosened but not enough that the rotor will fall off.
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...
Originally Posted by Flame3g
thanks guys....bought some PB Stuff from autozone....sprayed it on waited like five minutes and smacked the **** out of it with a rubber mallet and BBBAAAMMM.....finishing the other side now thanks for all the help...love this forum
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CLK500
rotor
Get a rubber mallet and smack hard all around the rotor and it will come lose..just built up with rust
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
2001 E55, 2002 ML55, 2002 SL500, 2003 CLK55
What I do use when reinstalling the rotors is a thin film of anti-seize paste before reinstalling the new rotor.
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10 speed bicycle
+1I have done countless brake jobs, as well as seen many other professionals do countless brake jobs. This is how it is always done.
BTW, Nice MV!
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Folks, if you have a BFH, penetrating oil really isn't necessary. The shock of the hammer will brake loose the rotor. I've done well over 30-50 brake jobs on BMW and Mercedes and never used penetrating oil and all the rotors came loose nicely.
What I do use when reinstalling the rotors is a thin film of anti-seize paste before reinstalling the new rotor.
What I do use when reinstalling the rotors is a thin film of anti-seize paste before reinstalling the new rotor.
Yes, you've done it many times so you know it will come out with a couple hard shock of the hammer. You have to understand that most of the people here, it their first time of doing it so they're afraid to knock it hard enough to loose it. As for the anti-seize paste, same goes with the spark plugs and the grease/lube for the plugs boots.
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
2001 E55, 2002 ML55, 2002 SL500, 2003 CLK55
Yes, you've done it many times so you know it will come out with a couple hard shock of the hammer. You have to understand that most of the people here, it their first time of doing it so they're afraid to knock it hard enough to loose it. As for the anti-seize paste, same goes with the spark plugs and the grease/lube for the plugs boots.
But that's what I'm trying to get across, don't be afraid to knock away. Many times on these forums, a first timer will be nice enough to chime in but offer either erroneous info or info that's not completely correct. I'm just hoping to steer folks in the correct direction.
One more thing, a rubber mallet may prove frustrating if the rotor is really rusted on.
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Klinh, I hear you.
But that's what I'm trying to get across, don't be afraid to knock away. Many times on these forums, a first timer will be nice enough to chime in but offer either erroneous info or info that's not completely correct. I'm just hoping to steer folks in the correct direction.
One more thing, a rubber mallet may prove frustrating if the rotor is really rusted on.
But that's what I'm trying to get across, don't be afraid to knock away. Many times on these forums, a first timer will be nice enough to chime in but offer either erroneous info or info that's not completely correct. I'm just hoping to steer folks in the correct direction.
One more thing, a rubber mallet may prove frustrating if the rotor is really rusted on.
I still remember my first time doing it. I has my front end on the jack stand. I was afraid to hit that sucker any harder because the car might just fall off the stand.
. Plus, at the shop where the car is on the lift, it alot easier to give it a full wack when you standing. About 8 months ago, I did a complete brake jobs front and rear on my 2001 clk 430. I was afraid to hit the rear rotors at full blow because i was afraid the emergency brake spring load might pop out inside. So I decided just to pry it out and it work.
Last edited by Klinh; Feb 18, 2010 at 01:13 AM.
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
2001 E55, 2002 ML55, 2002 SL500, 2003 CLK55
I still remember my first time doing it. I has my front end on the jack stand. I was afraid to hit that sucker any harder because the car might just fall off the stand. . Plus, at the shop where the car is on the lift, it alot easier to give it a full wack when you standing. About 8 months ago, I did a complete brake jobs front and rear on my 2001 clk 430. I was afraid to hit the rear rotors at full blow because i was afraid the emergency brake spring load might pop out inside. So I decided just to pry it out and it work.
. Plus, at the shop where the car is on the lift, it alot easier to give it a full wack when you standing. About 8 months ago, I did a complete brake jobs front and rear on my 2001 clk 430. I was afraid to hit the rear rotors at full blow because i was afraid the emergency brake spring load might pop out inside. So I decided just to pry it out and it work.Just remember to rotate the rotor gradually as you hit it.
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Folks, if you have a BFH, penetrating oil really isn't necessary. The shock of the hammer will brake loose the rotor. I've done well over 30-50 brake jobs on BMW and Mercedes and never used penetrating oil and all the rotors came loose nicely.
What I do use when reinstalling the rotors is a thin film of anti-seize paste before reinstalling the new rotor.
What I do use when reinstalling the rotors is a thin film of anti-seize paste before reinstalling the new rotor.
