Fuel Filter
#1
Fuel Filter
Checked my records (2004 CLK320), last time I changed my fuel filter was at 100K KM on Jun, 2007. My car is now almost 200K KM, is it time to change again? Does fuel filter have impacts on fuel consumption?
I also changed my spark plugs at the same time last time. But the plugs should be OK because I drive mostly highway; at least once a month to go to Montreal (from Toronto, 550 KM one way).
I also changed my spark plugs at the same time last time. But the plugs should be OK because I drive mostly highway; at least once a month to go to Montreal (from Toronto, 550 KM one way).
#3
yea its a DIY....
1. go to home depot, buy 4 small clamps...the ones used on water hoses...but smaller. You're going to need them.
2. open hood, remove airbox, and locate valve near the front of engine on passenger side....it has a plastic cap on it...remove cap, get a nice big towel and bleed the fuel from the line by pushing in the pin...
3. jack up rear driverside of car and put it on jackstands.
4. remove splash guards on drivers side.
5. put on safety glasses...unless you want to go blind.
6. remove the torx 20 bolt and 4 hoseclamps holding fuel filter lines.......IIRC
7. break all the clips off of the lines...you cannot reinstall them...so thats why i got you to go buy the clamps earlier....sux when your car is on stands and you need parts.
8. remove all lines....watchout because a lot of fuel will be coming ur way onto ur face...
9. re-install new filter in the same way the old filter sat...
10. reinstall everything....dont forget about ur airbox.
11. prime your ignition several times into 2nd position to prime the filter and lines...listen for the fuel pump to send...
12. Pat yourself on the back for a slack 2hr job well done.
Have a look at the old fuel filter and dump out the black and dirty fuel..
1. go to home depot, buy 4 small clamps...the ones used on water hoses...but smaller. You're going to need them.
2. open hood, remove airbox, and locate valve near the front of engine on passenger side....it has a plastic cap on it...remove cap, get a nice big towel and bleed the fuel from the line by pushing in the pin...
3. jack up rear driverside of car and put it on jackstands.
4. remove splash guards on drivers side.
5. put on safety glasses...unless you want to go blind.
6. remove the torx 20 bolt and 4 hoseclamps holding fuel filter lines.......IIRC
7. break all the clips off of the lines...you cannot reinstall them...so thats why i got you to go buy the clamps earlier....sux when your car is on stands and you need parts.
8. remove all lines....watchout because a lot of fuel will be coming ur way onto ur face...
9. re-install new filter in the same way the old filter sat...
10. reinstall everything....dont forget about ur airbox.
11. prime your ignition several times into 2nd position to prime the filter and lines...listen for the fuel pump to send...
12. Pat yourself on the back for a slack 2hr job well done.
Have a look at the old fuel filter and dump out the black and dirty fuel..
Last edited by Supafly; 08-10-2010 at 07:44 PM.
#5
Ref post #3, I checked with my WIS and have the following comments.
Re 1. WIS advises to open fuel cap to release vacuum in tank.
Re 2. not used.
Re 5a. WIS advises to pinch the 4 fuel lines completely closed with small clamps.
Re 6. WIS shows one bolt securing the retaining tubular bracket.
Re 1. WIS advises to open fuel cap to release vacuum in tank.
Re 2. not used.
Re 5a. WIS advises to pinch the 4 fuel lines completely closed with small clamps.
Re 6. WIS shows one bolt securing the retaining tubular bracket.
#6
Ref post #3, I checked with my WIS and have the following comments.
Re 1. WIS advises to open fuel cap to release vacuum in tank.
Re 2. not used.
Re 5a. WIS advises to pinch the 4 fuel lines completely closed with small clamps.
Re 6. WIS shows one bolt securing the retaining tubular bracket.
Re 1. WIS advises to open fuel cap to release vacuum in tank.
Re 2. not used.
Re 5a. WIS advises to pinch the 4 fuel lines completely closed with small clamps.
Re 6. WIS shows one bolt securing the retaining tubular bracket.
Re 1. Not needed. I did it without.
Re 2. You dont have to either...but im not a fan of having fuel in my face when im underneath my car.
Re 5. Not needed either...diffrent strokes for diffrent folks.
Re 6. I was refering to a TORX #20....not 20 torx bolts.
Clearly from your post you have not done job yourself...
#7
True. I didn't claim that I had. However, if this is a discussion forum, what is your problem with me pointing out that:
a) MB pinch the 4 fuel lines closed. No fuel in your face with their method.
b) You stated that 4 bolts secure the filter. Maybe it has changed, but WIS photo clearly shows 1.
a) MB pinch the 4 fuel lines closed. No fuel in your face with their method.
b) You stated that 4 bolts secure the filter. Maybe it has changed, but WIS photo clearly shows 1.
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#8
True. I didn't claim that I had. However, if this is a discussion forum, what is your problem with me pointing out that:
a) MB pinch the 4 fuel lines closed. No fuel in your face with their method.
b) You stated that 4 bolts secure the filter. Maybe it has changed, but WIS photo clearly shows 1.
a) MB pinch the 4 fuel lines closed. No fuel in your face with their method.
b) You stated that 4 bolts secure the filter. Maybe it has changed, but WIS photo clearly shows 1.
#13
I just purchased a new fuel filter and did some research on the location of this fuel filter.
In contrary to the replies to this post, I read this: "Remove the right rear road wheel, and then the plastic wheel well shroud. It's behind there...".
Where exactly is the fuel filter for a 2004 CLK320?
In contrary to the replies to this post, I read this: "Remove the right rear road wheel, and then the plastic wheel well shroud. It's behind there...".
Where exactly is the fuel filter for a 2004 CLK320?