Rudeney

I'll bet it doesn't hold for long.

OR-CLK350

I did have the same problem years ago. First I tried superglue but it didn’t last long... later I used something stronger from Locktite (sorry can’t remember the exact product name) which has lasted about 4 yrs. I seem to remember the operation was more abrupt (and noisy) when the arm was broken.

Leigh Jenkins

Thanks Rodeney,

I’m taking it to a top guy on Monday. Seems no one is willing to break it for me! Oh well!! I do have the info you told another poster from Parts.com. Or I might need to buy some Locktite glue! 😃😃

Stevie Palmer

I can confirm I had the exact same problem too. Just snapped the plastic off. Now opens and closes silently and no clunking.

Leigh Jenkins

Thanks! I went to a top shop and they also said it would do the trick. So glad I found this site and the posts!

rmetzner49

Rudeney, my local MB dealer said this was caused by "the spring loaded hinges wear out over age". What crap! They wanted $1,400 to replace the two hinges. The key plastic part you have to get rid of is the slotted part so it can't ever engage the lower shaft again.
For insurance, I also cut the upper broken piece off flush. I didn't remove the pieces because the hinge pin is riveted. Voila ! No more banging when the lid closes.

Bob Metzner

Rudeney

Yes, the plastic does get brittle over time, and yes, the dealers will stick it to you every time!

rmetzner49

I thought it was important to point out what "plastic" you were referring to. Just reading all of the replies was confusing until I actually got in there and sorted out the issue.

I've provided the picture to remove ambiguity. I Hope my explanation furthers your advice. Had I not gone looking for those "$700 hinges", I might not have found this thread.

Bob M.

Pinal Patel

I had the same issue with loud clunk during roof opening closing. The noise seems to be coming from the hinge. So I checked and one of the plastic arm was broken and so I cut that off. But the noise was still there so I ended up cutting the second arm which was intact. But then I had issue with the closing. I noticed that the remaining plastic piece was interfering with the roller. The trick is to remove the plastic material in contact with the roller but it's not that simple. So I removed the springs on both sided holding the center plastic arm. So now it's closing very smoothly and quietly.

Pinal Patel

Now I have an issue with soft lid not fully closing after removing plastic arms off from both hinges. I didn’t have this issue before. In order to close, I have to manully push the lid up when its upright then it would slide back in. Wondering now if I should have left one of the arms which was intact. Anything else could be causing this apart from it.

rmetzner49

So on June 2nd, you post it was "closing very smoothly and quietly" and 13 days later the lid no longer closes?
A picture of your HINGE would be much more helpful than several pictures of your lid not closing. Please send a picture of your hinge(s) so we can have a look.
You will have to determine what changed in 13 days. I'll take a picture of MY hinge tomorrow, but I doubt the hinge is the problem.
Look carefully at what changes when you physically "push the lid up" before closing.

Pinal Patel

Hi there,

When I took the arms off the thumping noise was gone. On the same day, I did have lid closing issues but after few trials I did manage to close the lid. I thought maybe it was because of some material that was still there so yesterday I took the hinges off and removed the debris so nothing gets in the way. I am still having the same issue. It seems like the flaps on the lid are not catching during closing. And I did notice that when the lid is coming down the passenger side tends to give in (strut issue?). Another thing I noticed was the roof kinds of obstructs the same strut. Some time the lid actually touches the trunk when it is up and I have to manully push it away with little force. Is there any adjustments that is required for the lid? Everything else seems to be fine. The pictures are attached.

rmetzner49

It looks like the recent issue is a separate issue from the hinge plastic nonsense. I can't get my car in the garage to look at how mine operates today, but I will tomorrow.
The thing you refer to as the "strut" I think is the hydraulic cylinder/actuator and something DOES look out of sync if it touches the top's canvas as shown in the picture.
You said earlier, you removed the hinges to service the plastic. Are you sure you got the hinges back in exactly the same position?
Stay tuned, I will have an answer for you tomorrow, or at least a suggestion of what could be the problem.

Bob M.

Pinal Patel

Hi Bob,

The hinges were installed exactly the way they were supposed to be. There is no way you could install them incorrectly. Even before removing the hinges the same issue was there. I have attached the picture and video of the passenger side the lid gives up and that side is closer to trunk compare to driver side. I think the cylinder (earlier I referred to as strut) seems to be an issue. I checked the cylinder but no aignnof leakage. But will appreciate if you could shed some light. Thank you.

rmetzner49

Wow, your top is a lot speedier than mine. I looked briefly at what mine does with the lid, and the difference in height is only 1/4". When the lid is fully open, the cylinder pin on the left side is 4-1/8" and 4-3/8" on the right.
I'm not sure how the cylinders reach their stroke at the same time but it seems like you have something out of sorts when your lid is crooked like that.

A long while ago, I invested in a Scanner, the iCarsoft-MB-II. You can find them on Ebay for around $150. Given a dealer will charge you $125 every time he connects a scanner to your car, it seemed a worthwhile investment. It's already paid for itself when I had Power Seat problems and Intake Manifold Flap problems.

I haven't personally interrogated the Soft Top Module but it's my understanding this tool will let you see error codes and such. When I connected it to the Driver's Seat Module, it let me watch on the screen, the switch state change as I pressed the button, and the rotation of the motors running the seat (the motors have Hall Effect Sensors).

Where I'm going with this, I've seen some posts where Micro-Switches and relays in the Top Mechanism fail. One guess at this point for your lid problem is a failing switch which the Scanner would help you find.

Bob M.

Pinal Patel

Hi Bob,

Appreciate your help and guidance. I think it’s worth investing into the scanner tool for sure.

Both lid cylinders reache their full stroke height but when I am lowering it that’s when the left side sort of collapses. So either it’s the bad the cylinder or the hinge. I do think the plastic arm is required so that the hinge on side remains guided. If you see in the video left hig on one side gives up that is the reason the plastic arm was broken in the first place. Its a poor design. I would try replacing the cylinder but its almost $1000. I would try with the hinge first. Not sure if any of the limit switches are bad. But will keep you posted.

rmetzner49

From what I, and others have learned in this forum, those plastic pieces are ONLY there to hold the lid in the upright position for maintenance. You're certainly welcome to your opinion, but I don't believe it's correct.
It sounds like you know the LEFT cylinder is problematic, and what I would do is buy a used cylinder off Ebay for around $160 shipped to you.

That's why your top lowers so much faster than mine, because the cylinder isn't holding.

Then I would dismantle your old cylinder and try to determine what's worn out.

My shop manual tells me the part for the left and right cylinder is A209 800 1272, so if you successfully determine you can rebuild the old cylinder, you will have a spare in case the other one goes out.

Bob M.

CaptSnedd

Hi All,

Is there anything special with the replacement of the hinge? Bracing for the compartment lid, etc.? I am guessing I want to make sure I do not put undo on the affected side cylinder to cause what the gentleman above had? My hinge is on its way, and I would like to change it as soon as it gets in. Any shop manual guidance on this?

Thank you all!

Warren Pfister

I had this happen to the right (passenger side) hinge on my 2006 CLK 350. Dealer wanted $989 to fix/replace. Took my Sadie back home, removed the broken plastic halves and mechanism now works smoothly again, no binding/clunking because the broken pieces were in the way.

ranjan Agarwal

Mine is a Mercedes-Benz CLK200K convertible. 2007.

Alas I didn't find this forum earlier. Paid $575 for the hinge from Merc dealer. Repair scheduled this Thursday.

The reason I bought the part is because the roof was not operating. I was only able to get the windows down and it stops at that.

Any idea what could be the issue?

Thanks in advance.

SimonColeman

Hi, I'm having this same issue, plastic hinge is broken on one side, i think from reading advice i will just attempt to remove the part. Can anyone be a bit more specific about what i need to remove, i.e just the part that is broken or the entire piece? Also, not sure about the 'rabbit ears' part.

SW KIM

Your pic is very helpful. Thank you.
I get rid of plastic arm already
but
Should I remove moving plastic thing connected spring in bottom too?

And what will happen rabbit ears besides hinge rotate frontside?
Does it need to get rid of plastic what I mentioned?