Suspension question for W209 and W203
 

Do you guys know if the complete suspension (strut/shock/springs) from a
W203 C-Class will work on a CLK500 W209 straight across?

The fit may be the same, but spring rates and values will definitely be different between the two models. Probably not a good idea.

+1
because of the weight difference between the w203 engine (anyone) and the w209's 500

ok thanks guys. I found a pretty good deal for H&R coil overs but it came off a W203 C-Class thought it may fit...guess not.

You didnt say that you were talking about coilovers..
in this case I'm not sure since coilovers are adjustable .
I hope someone else can help me out on this one :nix:

Still not the same, spring rates are different for the front and rear. They will fit but they are not engineered/designed for the CLK500 weight distribution. The CLK350 & C350 coil overs are the same.

Same issue
 

Previous owner put a w203 control arm on the clk550. Is it dangerous?

They are the same parts. The only differences are in shocks and springs and that's base don sport package or not.

Yes, the w203 stuff is a direct swap to the w209. Some of the parts actually have w203 stamped on them. The sway bar end links are one of the parts that may not swap over. Check to see if you have 10mm or 12mm sway bar end links.

Alignment or suspension problems? Or both..
 

Hello fellow mb enthusiasts,
I've noticed a tire wear on each front's, after not even 80 miles of driving. It's on the outside 'edge', like there would be too much camber (I think). But I was wondering if it could be something else. To describe better the way it's worn out, think of it as if the tire would be at 120 degrees like this : 0 but in worse (instead of 90, standing up straight like this: 0) with 10% of the outer side tire only touching the road. It's not like this of course, it's just to describe the wear. The edge worn out is about half to 3/4 inch wide all around. The rest looks completely new as it should for new tires.
It doesn't handle that great when driving curbs, and shocks are definitely worn out and ready to be changed too.
Regarding the wear of the tire is it due to a poor alignment or is it something in the suspension?
Thank you in advance for your input and thoughts on the matter.

You should have the alignment checked. The only adjustment most alignment shops can make is toe. There are special fluted bolts available to adjust camber, but before using those, I recommend replacing all four front control arms. The torque strut (a.k.a. upper control arm) uses a fluid-filled bushing at the frame mount point. That bushing will deteriorate and leak and cause alignment issues. If, after replacing the control arms, you still have camber issues, then have the bolts installed. You may have a challenge finding a shop that does that - they will have to be familiar with these MBZ suspensions. Also, when buying parts, get good quality OEM (Lemfoerder) or OE (Mercedes-Benz) parts. Most all other aftermarket parts are Chinese junk of dubious quality.

Thank you Rudeney
 

Can't they change just the strut bushing? Then just the arms bushings to save cost?
If i understand well, I need to do in order:
1- Change lower and upper control arms front and back
2- add adjusting camber bolts if still problems with alignment

How about the back suspension arms btw?

Is that correct?
Thank you for your precious advices.

The bushings can be replaced, but they are a major PITA to remove from the control arm as they are press fit. and you have to remove the control arms for that job, too. Basically, the money you save in buying only the bushings will likely be consumed by labor (and unless you have a press, it's not DIY). If you shop around, you can get a full set of new Lemfoerder front control arms for around $350.

i would not look at the camber bolts unless replacing the control arms doesn't put it back in alignment. And if it doesn't, it means something else is bent (steering knuckle or axle carrier).

There are bushings that you can buy for the control arms. However, buying the complete part with it already pressed in can sometimes be cheaper. This is because of the time and tools required to press in the bushings. If you are doing it yourself, it can be easier/cheaper to just unbolt an old arm and bolt in a new one.

Rudeney beat me to it! Haha.

Another factor in replacing the whole control arm is that you get a new ball joint. These "sealed for life" ball joints are not replaceable otherwise.

Ouch...
 

Thank you Rudeney. Great advices. Ouch, that sounds like at 1200 minimum at a garage for the 4 arms plus labor ...
Now, I must find someone competent enough to do this. It's odd because in previous posts, I mentioned that the mechanic could not finalize the alignment as there was always a pull to the right after each correction (3 tries). I was advised to try the camber bolts kit to solve this. But now it seems that it's better to try changing the control arms first...is that because of the new information about the way the tires wear (as I described in previous posts) that the arm replacement solution is better? Please let me know when you get a chance.
And thank you so much for your time!

The reason I suggest trying control arm replacement prior to using camber bolts is due to the design the front suspension. The control arms attach to the front axle carrier (a.k.a. engine cradle). It's a substantial rectangular frame made from very strong tubular steel. The axle carrier and control arm geometry are fixed, and that is why there is no simple adjustment for camber or caster. Unless the car has been in an accident severe enough to bend the control arms or axle carrier, then the only thing that can adversely affect camber and caster are the control arm bushings and ball joints.Using camber bolts is simply a way to overcome worn bushings and ball joints, so why not fix the root of the problem.

The main culprit is the "upper" control arm, called the torque strut. Once its rubber bushing cracks and its fluid leaks out, it's pretty much useless. Not only will it adversely affect the alignment, ride and handling will suffer. These bushings last about 6 years or 50K miles before they start to deteriorate. Time may be more of a factor than miles on rubber.