Suspension question for W209 and W203
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Nor Cal
S500 W220 Sport w/ Black Lorinser LM5(Sold), CLS500 Designo Edition, Kleeman effect w/ Kleeman Exh
Suspension question for W209 and W203
Do you guys know if the complete suspension (strut/shock/springs) from a
W203 C-Class will work on a CLK500 W209 straight across?
W203 C-Class will work on a CLK500 W209 straight across?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 2
From: Witness Protection Program
06 CLK350 -SOLD! 2010 Cadillac SRX Premium Turbo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 3
From: Mesa, AZ
2011 E550 Sedan
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 77
Likes: 2
From: Nor Cal
S500 W220 Sport w/ Black Lorinser LM5(Sold), CLS500 Designo Edition, Kleeman effect w/ Kleeman Exh
ok thanks guys. I found a pretty good deal for H&R coil overs but it came off a W203 C-Class thought it may fit...guess not.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,748
Likes: 0
From: A Canadian in Dubai, United Arab Emirates
'05 C200K SS, '05 Kleemann CLK500K, '08 Hummer H3 & '92 Z34 5sp (track car in Canada)
Still not the same, spring rates are different for the front and rear. They will fit but they are not engineered/designed for the CLK500 weight distribution. The CLK350 & C350 coil overs are the same.
Trending Topics
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 217
Likes: 19
From: Chicago, IL
2003 CLK500, 2003 CLK55, 2008 CLK550
Yes, the w203 stuff is a direct swap to the w209. Some of the parts actually have w203 stamped on them. The sway bar end links are one of the parts that may not swap over. Check to see if you have 10mm or 12mm sway bar end links.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 2
Mercedes Benz clk550
Alignment or suspension problems? Or both..
Hello fellow mb enthusiasts,
I've noticed a tire wear on each front's, after not even 80 miles of driving. It's on the outside 'edge', like there would be too much camber (I think). But I was wondering if it could be something else. To describe better the way it's worn out, think of it as if the tire would be at 120 degrees like this : 0 but in worse (instead of 90, standing up straight like this: 0) with 10% of the outer side tire only touching the road. It's not like this of course, it's just to describe the wear. The edge worn out is about half to 3/4 inch wide all around. The rest looks completely new as it should for new tires.
It doesn't handle that great when driving curbs, and shocks are definitely worn out and ready to be changed too.
Regarding the wear of the tire is it due to a poor alignment or is it something in the suspension?
Thank you in advance for your input and thoughts on the matter.
I've noticed a tire wear on each front's, after not even 80 miles of driving. It's on the outside 'edge', like there would be too much camber (I think). But I was wondering if it could be something else. To describe better the way it's worn out, think of it as if the tire would be at 120 degrees like this : 0 but in worse (instead of 90, standing up straight like this: 0) with 10% of the outer side tire only touching the road. It's not like this of course, it's just to describe the wear. The edge worn out is about half to 3/4 inch wide all around. The rest looks completely new as it should for new tires.
It doesn't handle that great when driving curbs, and shocks are definitely worn out and ready to be changed too.
Regarding the wear of the tire is it due to a poor alignment or is it something in the suspension?
Thank you in advance for your input and thoughts on the matter.
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
You should have the alignment checked. The only adjustment most alignment shops can make is toe. There are special fluted bolts available to adjust camber, but before using those, I recommend replacing all four front control arms. The torque strut (a.k.a. upper control arm) uses a fluid-filled bushing at the frame mount point. That bushing will deteriorate and leak and cause alignment issues. If, after replacing the control arms, you still have camber issues, then have the bolts installed. You may have a challenge finding a shop that does that - they will have to be familiar with these MBZ suspensions. Also, when buying parts, get good quality OEM (Lemfoerder) or OE (Mercedes-Benz) parts. Most all other aftermarket parts are Chinese junk of dubious quality.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 2
Mercedes Benz clk550
Thank you Rudeney
Can't they change just the strut bushing? Then just the arms bushings to save cost?
If i understand well, I need to do in order:
1- Change lower and upper control arms front and back
2- add adjusting camber bolts if still problems with alignment
How about the back suspension arms btw?
Is that correct?
Thank you for your precious advices.
If i understand well, I need to do in order:
1- Change lower and upper control arms front and back
2- add adjusting camber bolts if still problems with alignment
How about the back suspension arms btw?
Is that correct?
Thank you for your precious advices.
Last edited by alexandergreat; Sep 4, 2018 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Misreading
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
The bushings can be replaced, but they are a major PITA to remove from the control arm as they are press fit. and you have to remove the control arms for that job, too. Basically, the money you save in buying only the bushings will likely be consumed by labor (and unless you have a press, it's not DIY). If you shop around, you can get a full set of new Lemfoerder front control arms for around $350.
i would not look at the camber bolts unless replacing the control arms doesn't put it back in alignment. And if it doesn't, it means something else is bent (steering knuckle or axle carrier).
i would not look at the camber bolts unless replacing the control arms doesn't put it back in alignment. And if it doesn't, it means something else is bent (steering knuckle or axle carrier).
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 217
Likes: 19
From: Chicago, IL
2003 CLK500, 2003 CLK55, 2008 CLK550
There are bushings that you can buy for the control arms. However, buying the complete part with it already pressed in can sometimes be cheaper. This is because of the time and tools required to press in the bushings. If you are doing it yourself, it can be easier/cheaper to just unbolt an old arm and bolt in a new one.
Can't they change just the strut bushing? Then just the arms bushings to save cost?
If i understand well, I need to do in order:
1- Change lower and upper control arms front and back
2- add adjusting camber bolts if still problems with alignment
How about the back suspension arms btw?
Is that correct?
Thank you for your precious advices.
If i understand well, I need to do in order:
1- Change lower and upper control arms front and back
2- add adjusting camber bolts if still problems with alignment
How about the back suspension arms btw?
Is that correct?
Thank you for your precious advices.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 64
Likes: 2
Mercedes Benz clk550
Ouch...
Thank you Rudeney. Great advices. Ouch, that sounds like at 1200 minimum at a garage for the 4 arms plus labor ...
Now, I must find someone competent enough to do this. It's odd because in previous posts, I mentioned that the mechanic could not finalize the alignment as there was always a pull to the right after each correction (3 tries). I was advised to try the camber bolts kit to solve this. But now it seems that it's better to try changing the control arms first...is that because of the new information about the way the tires wear (as I described in previous posts) that the arm replacement solution is better? Please let me know when you get a chance.
And thank you so much for your time!
Now, I must find someone competent enough to do this. It's odd because in previous posts, I mentioned that the mechanic could not finalize the alignment as there was always a pull to the right after each correction (3 tries). I was advised to try the camber bolts kit to solve this. But now it seems that it's better to try changing the control arms first...is that because of the new information about the way the tires wear (as I described in previous posts) that the arm replacement solution is better? Please let me know when you get a chance.
And thank you so much for your time!
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
The reason I suggest trying control arm replacement prior to using camber bolts is due to the design the front suspension. The control arms attach to the front axle carrier (a.k.a. engine cradle). It's a substantial rectangular frame made from very strong tubular steel. The axle carrier and control arm geometry are fixed, and that is why there is no simple adjustment for camber or caster. Unless the car has been in an accident severe enough to bend the control arms or axle carrier, then the only thing that can adversely affect camber and caster are the control arm bushings and ball joints.Using camber bolts is simply a way to overcome worn bushings and ball joints, so why not fix the root of the problem.
The main culprit is the "upper" control arm, called the torque strut. Once its rubber bushing cracks and its fluid leaks out, it's pretty much useless. Not only will it adversely affect the alignment, ride and handling will suffer. These bushings last about 6 years or 50K miles before they start to deteriorate. Time may be more of a factor than miles on rubber.
The main culprit is the "upper" control arm, called the torque strut. Once its rubber bushing cracks and its fluid leaks out, it's pretty much useless. Not only will it adversely affect the alignment, ride and handling will suffer. These bushings last about 6 years or 50K miles before they start to deteriorate. Time may be more of a factor than miles on rubber.
