CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

Changing Air Filter

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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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2004 CLK320
Changing Air Filter

I like to change the air filter of my 2004 CLK320.

Is there a DIY writeup on this? Also need the instructions how to remove the engine cover, don't want to break any clips.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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You shouldn't break any clips removing the covers - they use very solid metal spring clips and rubber knobs. Remove the front part first, then the two cold air intake tubes, then the main cover (that is actually the air filter housing).
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudeney
You shouldn't break any clips removing the covers - they use very solid metal spring clips and rubber knobs. Remove the front part first, then the two cold air intake tubes, then the main cover (that is actually the air filter housing).
I never saw how to remove the engine cover. Do I just pull the cover upward?
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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To remove the front piece, pull up on the front edge and then slide forward. The intake tubes just have to be pulled loose from both ends. The large cover (air cleaner housing) just pulls straight up. It has two metal clips on the front, and the rear rests on the MAF sensor housing. When you replace it, make sure it seats properly on the MAF sensor.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudeney
To remove the front piece, pull up on the front edge and then slide forward. The intake tubes just have to be pulled loose from both ends. The large cover (air cleaner housing) just pulls straight up. It has two metal clips on the front, and the rear rests on the MAF sensor housing. When you replace it, make sure it seats properly on the MAF sensor.
Thanks Rudeney.

I did manage to remove the front piece. To remove the larger cover, do I pull up?
I saw 2 intake tubes on both ends, do they pull right out?
Any screws to remove when changing the air filters?

Last edited by mis3; Jan 2, 2012 at 01:14 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mis3
Thanks Rudeney.

I did manage to remove the front piece. To remove the larger cover, do I pull up?
I saw 2 intake tubes on both ends, do they pull right out?
Any screws to remove when changing the air filters?
Yes, you pull up - and slighty forward - just like Rudeney said. There are torx screws holding the covers over the actual filters. But no screws to remove the housing from the car .
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:22 PM
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And by the way, I buy original MB air filters. Not because they filter better or I'm a purist - but I tried aftermarket once and the sealing foam around the edge was much stiffer than on an MB filter and deformed the cover when it was tightened down. I didn't like that, so I got originals.

Last edited by Yidney; Jan 2, 2012 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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And also by the way - the intake tubes can be hard to slip back on fully if they are even slightly cold. Shoot a hair dryer at the end for a minute and they will slip on much easier.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Yidney
Yes, you pull up - and slighty forward - just like Rudeney said. There are torx screws holding the covers over the actual filters. But no screws to remove the housing from the car .
Sorry, i am confused Do i remove this torx screws or not?
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mis3
Sorry, i am confused Do i remove this torx screws or not?
Yes and no. You have to unscrew them, but they do not come completly out. They are designed that way. You are not going to break anything like you seem to fear. Go grab your housing and wiggle it up off the engine. You won't hurt anything. Flip it over and you will see the screws.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 03:26 PM
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the only thing you might break is the front of the airbox which is ot attached by the metal clips.

all i do is remove the intake hosing and then grab the intake at the center gently pull upwards. should come right off. its one of those things you will know what to do next after you flip it upside down.

gl
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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I just remove the rear engine cover and the air filters are in inside the engine cover !!!
Thanks all for your help.

It happened that the air filters were not dirty at all. The last 2 times they were changed were 03-Jun-2010 and 26-Mar-2011.

So, I just banged them against the wall a few times until no more dust and put them back on. I did see some 'sand' (???) in the air filter housings which I blew off. I will replace the filters in maybe 6 months.

Last edited by mis3; Jan 2, 2012 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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i found a couple of bugs in mine lol...and a cig butt
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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I sure hope I did put everything back correctly.

If I didn't, would I get a mallfunction?
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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mis3, you sound like me... all worried... until I started reading all the great info on MBWorld. The guys that hang around here are absolutely the best when it comes to information and help. And they got me to "Just do it"! I've worked on my cars and bikes since the early sixties, but these newfangled techno-rockets are somethin' else.
(Thanks to all the MBWorld guys... you are the BEST!)
:-Jerry
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mis3
I sure hope I did put everything back correctly.

If I didn't, would I get a mallfunction?
The only thing that can sometimes be an issue is not getting it seated fully over round air intake at the rear. Just make sure that is fully seated. It can throw a code eventually, but the bigger issue is sucking unfiltered air into the engine.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 01:25 AM
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CLK 320
there's another writeup out there, but this is a good start. if you search this forum you will probably find a link to it....

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...er-change.html
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Yidney
The only thing that can sometimes be an issue is not getting it seated fully over round air intake at the rear. Just make sure that is fully seated. It can throw a code eventually, but the bigger issue is sucking unfiltered air into the engine.
I checked.
I pushed on the rear engine cover and found there was little or no wiggle room underneath. So, it must be installed properly.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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There should be enough room to put your fingers on the underside of the rear cover to feel and make sure the cover is seated properly over the MAF sensor gasket.

And this doesn't apply to the OP, but some engines have a vacuum hose attached to the front of the rear cover, sitting right on top of the engine. If yours has this, don't forget to reattach it.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudeney
There should be enough room to put your fingers on the underside of the rear cover to feel and make sure the cover is seated properly over the MAF sensor gasket.

And this doesn't apply to the OP, but some engines have a vacuum hose attached to the front of the rear cover, sitting right on top of the engine. If yours has this, don't forget to reattach it.
I re-attached the 2 intake hoses when I put back the rear engine cover but don't know about this vacuum hose.

I have driven the car for 2 days and did not notice any irregularity.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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Yours doesn't have the vacuum hose -that's only on the 3.5/5.5 engines.
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