billyhead1

So, the old CLK320 stands at 105,000 miles and running strong.

For personal and financial reasons, I want to drive her for 2 more calendar years and then sell - unless something catastrophic happens. With that in mind, I am moving forward with a set of 19" wheels/tires (the original wheels are trashed) and Bilstein HD with Eibach or H&R. Based on the experience/reports of the group here, I am probably not going to do a camber kit, and I don't feel like sways are that important.

But - when I've got the mechanics in there and everything is apart, I want to do a refresh on the suspension, but wondering what parts should be done...

Here's a partial list of the items I had in mind:

- Upper strut bearings
- Rear spring pads (need to find out what pad # I have based on my VIN)
- Torque or 'thrust arm' bushings in the front (noticed they were cracked/aging)
- Ball joints and tie rod ends (assuming here, would like opinions)
- Stock sway bar bushings (again, assuming)

But what else...?

Would appreciate input from the group on this approach, and what other parts should be R&R'ed at the time when the suspension is apart. My end goal, is a tight, clunk-free ride for the next 2 years, and I would hate to have to pull it all apart to fix something that wasn't put right the first time.

TIA for your input.

~ Bill

Rudeney

You need to check your front ball joints (this will require removing them) and if they are bad, just replace the entire thrust arm instead of just the bushing. Also, replace the sway bar end links while you're under there.

lowpost

I have 165,000 miles. I had everything you listed replaced at 140,000. Ball joints also replaced last year. sway bar bushings also replaced. It was all worth it - drives like new! At this point I think my car is worth like 5 grand so I'll keep this around forever.

billyhead1

I am seeing kits like this on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290683240082...ht_1501wt_1108

But reading that Flennor quality and fitment is not great, and I should go with Lemforder bits.

Also, Lowpost, did you do anything to the rear end?

Kevwood

Whoa, that is a smokin good deal for all those parts compared to what I have been quoted here! Of course, if the quality is lacking then its useless.

Rudeney

Those parts are probably OK, but they are not "German" - they are "German replacement" parts, made in China. Not everything from China is crap or substandard, but they may not last over 100K miles like good Lemforder or other brands. Of course at 1/4 the price, if they last more than 25K miles, I guess they are worth the price.

lowpost

No all oringal on the rear except the bearings - replaced at 100,000

kbahl21

You should definatley do the control arms
http://vosmotorsports.com/product_in...control-p-9328

mis3

My w209 is a 2004 CLK320 with 150K miles. The follwing items were replaced on Jun-2010 (maybe 125K miles at the time):
Right front lower control arm
Right front caster thrust arm with busing
Left front tie rod (then 4-wheel alignment)
Left front control arm
Left front caster thrust arm

The car currently rides very well as usual. There have been occasional squeaking noise from the back when go over bumps. I visited MB dealership twice on this issue but they could not find the root cause. My SA advised to leave it until it gets worse.

TechSuperstar

Follow up question...

... I'm at 120,000 mi and am now in need of the right side thrust arm replacement. I do the work myself but have to pay the dealer somewhere around $120 for the alignment afterward.

My question is.. Is it worth doing the entire front end (Upper, Lower, and links) or just doing the single thrust (upper) arm?

I figure it will save money by doing the whole thing since I wont have to get multiple alignments (when other bushings go).

Rudeney

I'd do the whole thing. You should always replace suspension parts in mirrored pairs anyhow, and with the lower being bad, the uppers and tie rods are probably worn, too. You'll really notice some odd handling with the brand new part working with the old ones.

Kreuzfeuer

^^^ This.

I plan on doing the whole service mentioned above to my Crossfire (SLK/C-Class components) at the 80K mark, simply because I drive the p*ss out of mine.

Lowpost -- Sick signature pic...