MBWorld... I am freaking out! About 1 or 2 months ago I had a problem 2 different times where when I got on it I got on it hard in 1st & 2nd (I was manual shifting) a bunch of lights flashed on the dash and it jerked/hesitated extremely rough and I lost power for a second then it would continue accelerating at about the same rate it does when traction control kicks in then the tires grip. When somebody else was driving the car in auto they experienced a rough hesitation in first while slightly getting on it to move in traffic but was not sure if any lights flashed on the dash. So I took it to the dealer while getting other items serviced and they checked the computer and said everything was working correctly but the tranny software needed an update so they updated it.


Now today... I washed and waxed the car so i decided to take it for a little drive and as I accelerated in first I let 1st rev up to about 4k and shift into second... I waited for 2nd to build up to about 3k and I got on it hard. As soon as I got on it the same thing happened as what happened 2 months ago...

I immediately pulled my phone out to see if I could catch it on video so I had proof. Well, seconds later I imitated what I did before and BAM... heres the video of what happens

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQI21...ature=youtu.be

Do any of you have any clue what could be happening? Im pretty worried considering I have only had the damn car for 6 months... so all help will be greatly appreciated!


If it helps it is a 2008 CLK550 with 35,000 miles.

 

Put the cluster into voltage monitor mode (instructions are here on the forum - you triple-tap the reset stalk which the ignition switch in position 1 to access the hidden menus). Then, repeat the drive and see if your voltage varies. You may have a bad voltage regulator that is causing this.

 

Thanks for the reply! I will try that today... Does it have to do what it did in the video or should I just repeat what I did? Reason I ask is because last night I took it out again and it wouldn't do it again. Also, how big of a deal is it to replace the voltage regulator and am I doing the car harm if I contiue driving it?

I have no clue wether its related or not but very often I only have to turn the key once but it's clicks for about 2 seconds before it starts... which seems longer than it should. Anyway, both problems could be because of needing a new battery?

Thank you again for your help!

 

If you get clicks when trying to start, you have a weak battery, which could just be due to age, or you could have an alternator (or regulator) problem that's not keeping the battery properly charged. Let's here about the voltage readings - at rest, during start, and while driving.

 

Voltage Results...

After a 30 Min drive and sitting for 10 mins Off (came home and saw your comment)


Start Up 10.9 ( the lowest it goes down and comes up real quick)

Idle 14.2 - 14.4

When I tried to replicate what happened in the videos 13.9 (I did realize it was in Comfort after i got home last time it was in Sport... if it makes a difference I could redo it)

After that the start up was 11.2

 

Comfort/sport makes no difference. Those voltages look OK, but 13.9 seems just a little low - normal operating voltage is around 14.2. I'd keep an eye on it and if you get to where you can duplicate it again, check the voltage.

 

So after watching the voltages for a while and it happening to be 2 more times (wasnt watching the voltages then of coaurse) I just thought I was going to have to deal with it.


As I was cleaning the engine bay I decided to take apart the airbox as I wanted to see how it was designed. When I took the cover off as I sat it on the floor I noticed dirt falling out so I figured I would take it apart to clean the air filter. When I finally got it off and took the air filters out I was appalled to find the dirt that was in there.

I have had it at the dealer 2-3 times since I bought it 6 months ago last time being 2 months ago. Last time I mention this problem and I got the usual "We cant confirm the problem". I cant believe they never noticed this. So now what I am wondering is could this have been my problem? If so could it have caused any damage? Also, while it was off I wiped my fingers across the metal screen guard where the tube from the airbox mounts (the last screen before the air goes into the engine) and it was black so I wiped it off). Now that I did wipe it off Im wondering if it was ok that I touched it... is this a problem?

I ended up scrubbing the container that holds the air filter with soap and water and vacuuming the air filter out just to hold me over until I can get a new filter. (Im hoping auto zone will have one so I can get it tomorrow)


Also, is this the correct Genuine OEM Air Filter?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-2-Air-Fi...600#vi-content


Heres some pics...

1st Filter:




2nd Filter:

 

Part number for the air filter 112-094-06-04.
Mann is supposed to be OEM.

 

Shame on that dealer. I'm not sure they even changed that filter before selling you the car! Which makes me question the car's overall health, and especially the battery, as everyone is suggesting. Did they even give you some fresh brake pads?

This is exactly why I don't entrust my car's health entirely to the dealer. I do my own oil and filter changes. I monitor fluid levels as much as I can. I usually pick up filters in bulk from rockauto.com. Their Mann (oem) filters are reasonably priced at about $20 and they usually offer a 5% discount that takes the bite out of a huge order.

 

HU 718/5 X Oil Filter Element - Metal Free $ 7.9

C 3698/3-2 Air Filter Element $ 23.73

http://www.mannfiltersrus.com/

I noticed the MAF screen being covered in a black when I last changed my air filters. I thought it was due to the air cover maybe not being seated well during some dyno testing. It was the 1st time seeing it so dirty. I used a microfiber towel while holding a vacuum near the screen while cleaning.

I had been using K&N filters but decided they did not improve performance (not enough to notice anyway) and I did not want the risk of MAF sensor problems.

 

Yo thats a crazy story
cuz the same thing happened to my 2008 white clk 550!
it happened about a year ago when I changed to K&N filters....it would be super jerky how u described, all the lights coming on...i have to turn off car and restart

I got a full refund from K&N, i used oem filters...and the problem went away...i even cleaned my MAF sensor....now I use prodry...and haven't had that problem since...it was scary...but i'm sure its due to the air filter since you are having that problem with a dirty filter.....probabaly MAF is dirty.

 

I cleaned my MAF sensor every six months.....

 

Thanks for all the info and part numbers. Im going to call the dealer tomorrow to see if they have the air filters in stock because today I was driving and the "check Engine" light poped on so I took it to AutoZone to get the code checked and it came up as "Fuel Trim Bank 1 & 2 " The shop said it might have to do with me having the key turned one notch to the right while taking it apart ( I was listening to music) or the car is running lean because I blew the air filter out with a compressor and now the dirt is packed in so It's not hgetting as much air as before. That second one I have to call because the car is pulling so much harder in second and third than it was. I did drive the car another 10-15 miles after they reset it and it hasn't come back on but I drove 25 miles before it came on the first time.


Egwu Its funny you mention that because before I bought the car they made a big point about they thoroughly go over the car and check it to make sure there is at least 60% of brakes left and blah blah blah... 1 week later I was back at the dealer because the brakes felt worn. Needless to say they had to replace the fronts because they were worn.


Sleepyheadz Ahhh bro Im so glad this has happened to somebody else. I thought I was alone with this problem. Its scary as hell when it happens because all the lights flash like your engine is going to freaking blow. I really hope the filter along with the MAF being dirty is the problem. i was thinking about getting a prodry over mann but I hesitate because I've read a few horror stories about aftermarket air filters. Do you think I should just stick to stock or do you think there is noticeable power increase or feel with the pro dry filters?


P.S how do you clean your MAF sensor?

 

It sometimes does not take too long to get large stuff like leaves sucked into your airbox, especially on the V8. I'm always surprised at the size of the grit in there - small gravel really. But those filters are nasty, and have not been changed any time recently. Probably in 50,000 miles.

 

And if you want to really think you ruined your car, do like me and clean your MAF while still in the car. I thought I waited long enough for all the cleaner to dry out, but when I started it it blew more smoke than a coal-fired train and I think every light but the one in the glove box came on. Shut it down and it was all good after that.

 

Hahahah nice one Yidney! I actually just lol... thanks for the good laugh! Believe it or not my car actually only has 36,000 miles on it and the car is up to date with everything... the owner before took it to the dealer for EVERYTHING including details every 2 weeks. Im going to check the carfax to see when the last time it was changed.


I decided I'm going to take it my MB mechanic this week sometime to get the MAF cleaned because I would rather not touch it.


Thank you all for all of your help and advice!

 

I clean my MAF just like M-bENZ. I simply remove the part and spray the sensor thoroughly with off the shelf electronic cleaner. I use the CRC QD Electronic Cleaner brand that comes in a red can. You can get it from any parts store or walmart. It comes with a little extension that allows you to spray and reach the sensor through the MAF screen. No need to remove the sensor from the MAF part body/shell.

Yes, just as Yidney experienced, the cleaner is alcohol based and highly flammable . So, I let the MAF dry thoroughly after cleaning. However, it evaporates quickly enough though, due to its alcohol. I go over the sensor several times till I feel it is clean enough.

 

I thought about doing it like you guys did but I decided against it because I'm too afraid to screw something up... plus my MB mechanic is really reasonable so doing it myself isn't going to save me much if anything.


Today I did notice the car sometimes flutters when idling... I watched the rpm and it goes from 600 to 500 when it flutters. Could this have to do with the air filters and the MAF?

 

LOl thats crazy...yeah my car would flutter the rpm too...ESPECIALLY when i was slowing down and coming to a complete stop....i would just go with regular stock air fiflter....our car is 382 hp...even if it did add 2 HP, do you think you'd notice your car running at 384 hp? LOL

 

my car was doing the shudder/shimmy at idle too. took it in and they found a cracked intake manifold, said it was causing the car to think it was running lean then rich and switching back and forth constantly. also had the christmas tree dash shutdown happen once at idle. have the intake manifold checked out.

 

Did u end up fixing this issue? ive got the same problem. I think it may be an ESP issue because when I turn it off it doesn't do it anymore.