DIY: W209 fix for creaky sway bar bushings (w/pics)
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
I am not sure why mine failed, but the bushings were totally deformed, almost melted looking. They left black rubber residue on my hands when I touched them. It was almost as if they had turned to a partial liquid state. I had never lubricated them, so unless the dealer did it during a service and used the wrong grease, I can't imagine what caused it. I just assumed it was a bad design so I replace mine with the old style bushings and have not had an issue.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 434
Likes: 16
From: Midlands, UK
CLK W209
So I lubed all my ARB bushings today. The rears were clearly not bonded to the bar and were free.
However when I went and did the fronts, I dropped the bar and noticed there were no splits in the bushings to take them off the bar.
Looking at an independent service manual for the W203, it noted that the drop links had to come off to inspect the bushings. Possibly suggesting that regardless of whether the bushings were bonded or not, they would only slide off over the end of the bar...?
I think I changed the front anti roll bar bushes on my old 2005 CLK, and I can't remember having to do that.
The bushes on mine were clearly creaky, just twisting them back and forth, so I slid them over and put some lithium grease in there, and all over the bushes. Will have to wait for a cold morning this week to see if the creaking has stopped under load.
But would I be right in thinking that although the bushes were in good condition, they are supposed to be bonded to the bar?
Ben
However when I went and did the fronts, I dropped the bar and noticed there were no splits in the bushings to take them off the bar.
Looking at an independent service manual for the W203, it noted that the drop links had to come off to inspect the bushings. Possibly suggesting that regardless of whether the bushings were bonded or not, they would only slide off over the end of the bar...?
I think I changed the front anti roll bar bushes on my old 2005 CLK, and I can't remember having to do that.
The bushes on mine were clearly creaky, just twisting them back and forth, so I slid them over and put some lithium grease in there, and all over the bushes. Will have to wait for a cold morning this week to see if the creaking has stopped under load.
But would I be right in thinking that although the bushes were in good condition, they are supposed to be bonded to the bar?
Ben
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
There are two styles - bonded and not bonded. The earlier style was not bonded and I think the original factory parts were not split, but the replacements are split. In this case, you could just cut the non-split bushing off and then put the split one back on without disconnecting the end links. If they are the newer bonded style, then they will not slide and in fact are a PITA to remove. That's because they are not made to be removed; if the bushings are worn or hardened, you are supposed to replace the entire bar. it is possible to remove the bonded bushings and replace them with the non-bonded split ones, but they are a different shape, so you'll also need to replace the brackets with the old style (which is what I did). I think if you go with replacing the whole bar, I might look into an aftermarket one that's larger, or at least one that has polyurethane bushings that lat longer.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 434
Likes: 16
From: Midlands, UK
CLK W209
Okay, so you'd find it almost impossible for the bushes to become unbonded? Even after 120k? I'd imagine the bushes would have been more than worn by then; which they weren't. There was a little rubber remnant on the bar under the one bush. It did lead me to consider whether the bar had previously had bonded bushes. And that they've now been replaced with unbonded. But the bushes were Mercedes original parts... So were they slid over the ends by the Mercedes techs when they were changed last.
I also would ask, for the bars that aren't bonded, are there supposed to be fixed washers on the bar to prevent the bar slipping through the clamps? Mine are still tight on the clamps but I can imagine quite a bit of lateral force through that bar, particularly with the really long drop links.
I also would ask, for the bars that aren't bonded, are there supposed to be fixed washers on the bar to prevent the bar slipping through the clamps? Mine are still tight on the clamps but I can imagine quite a bit of lateral force through that bar, particularly with the really long drop links.
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
The adhesive used to bond the bushings to the bar is pretty strong stuff. It took me a few hours to carve the old rubber off and then polish off the remnants when I went back to unbonded bushings. It's not going to just come loose. As for keepers for unbonded bushings, there are none. They bushings are supposed to allow the bar to "sway" back and forth to counter-act the motions of the car.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
If I decide to buy old style with new separate bushings and old brackets, do I need to perform wheel alignment? I had it done a month ago..
How long does it take to perform the swap?
PS
I have new style as of right now.
How long does it take to perform the swap?
PS
I have new style as of right now.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
Thank you!!
That makes it a lot easy. Do I need any special tools? Or impact wrench would be enough? How long does it take on average? About 1 hour or so?
By any chance, do you recall part numbers for old style bushing and bracket?
I know I will buy OEM bracket, but what about bushings? Oem or aftermarket?
What kind of lube should I use for that rubber?
Thank you for all your help! Squeaks are getting louder, can't bear them anymore.
That makes it a lot easy. Do I need any special tools? Or impact wrench would be enough? How long does it take on average? About 1 hour or so?
By any chance, do you recall part numbers for old style bushing and bracket?
I know I will buy OEM bracket, but what about bushings? Oem or aftermarket?
What kind of lube should I use for that rubber?
Thank you for all your help! Squeaks are getting louder, can't bear them anymore.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
You'll need to know the diameter of the anti-sway bar. It's either 21mm or 22mm. Use an open-end wrench on a clean section of it to check. The bushings will be A2033232185 (21mm) or A2033232285 (22mm). Left bracket is A2033232740, right is A2033232740. Should be under $50 for all parts - check mboemparts.com (drop the "A" prefix when searching by part#).
I would start with no lubricant. Use a thin coating of lithium grease if needed. Also, make sure this is the issue. Check the rubber bushings where the control arms attach to the axle carrier (frame). The "upper" control arm (a.k.a torque strut) uses a fluid-filled bushing. If it's cracked or deformed, it will need to be replace as this can cause noises and will adversely affect alignment. If you do need to replace this, I suggest doing all four control arms (both on each side). Replace the whole control arm - don't bother with trying just to replace the bushings as it's difficult work and new arms have new ball joints. Lemfoerder is them OEM.
I would start with no lubricant. Use a thin coating of lithium grease if needed. Also, make sure this is the issue. Check the rubber bushings where the control arms attach to the axle carrier (frame). The "upper" control arm (a.k.a torque strut) uses a fluid-filled bushing. If it's cracked or deformed, it will need to be replace as this can cause noises and will adversely affect alignment. If you do need to replace this, I suggest doing all four control arms (both on each side). Replace the whole control arm - don't bother with trying just to replace the bushings as it's difficult work and new arms have new ball joints. Lemfoerder is them OEM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
Well, this is whole new level of possible problem. By all symptoms it pointed on torsion bar rubber and now Im not even sure.
But thank you for all numbers and extra info! I highly appreciate it!
But thank you for all numbers and extra info! I highly appreciate it!
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
Is 2033233165 a correct part # for the torsion bar? Will it work for me?
Do I need to measure diameter of a new torsion bar or of the current one?
Do I need to measure diameter of a new torsion bar or of the current one?
Last edited by merceBENZ; Apr 15, 2017 at 11:01 PM.
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
Yep, that's a 21mm torsion bar. i am not sure if that's with the bonded bushings or not. The revised part number (with bonded bushings) is A2033234365 (21mm).
If you want to isolate the offending part, here are my I suggestions for diagnosis:
1. Remove the brackets and lubricate the anti-sway bar bushings where they meet the bracket and frame surfaces. If that stops the noise, you have your solution.
2. If not, then inspect the bushings on the control arms where they bolt to the front axle carrier. Anything more than surface cracks, or visible signs of fluid leaks or deformation, replace them.
3. If all that looks good, then use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen to the moving parts while you actuate the suspension. Use a floor jack or a very long board as a lever to do this.
If you want to isolate the offending part, here are my I suggestions for diagnosis:
1. Remove the brackets and lubricate the anti-sway bar bushings where they meet the bracket and frame surfaces. If that stops the noise, you have your solution.
2. If not, then inspect the bushings on the control arms where they bolt to the front axle carrier. Anything more than surface cracks, or visible signs of fluid leaks or deformation, replace them.
3. If all that looks good, then use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen to the moving parts while you actuate the suspension. Use a floor jack or a very long board as a lever to do this.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
Thank you.
Part 3 is not very clear to me since I don't have stethoscope. Also I don't understand the process of leveraging.
Tell me if Im right or wrong. I can buy bar of any diameter, I have to make sure I buy brackets and bushings of the same diameter.
HAPPY EASTER!!
Part 3 is not very clear to me since I don't have stethoscope. Also I don't understand the process of leveraging.
Tell me if Im right or wrong. I can buy bar of any diameter, I have to make sure I buy brackets and bushings of the same diameter.
HAPPY EASTER!!
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,109
Likes: 112
2008 CLK550 Cab
Are your bushing just squeaking, or are they deformed? If just squeaking, try lubing them but first doing what I suggested somewhere in this post - scuff the inside of the brackets with sandpaper.
MBworld Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,782
Likes: 1,011
NO LONGER ACTIVE
A mechanics stethoscope is a great investment for tracking down noises in your car. I have this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
The process of "leveraging" is to actuate the suspension, i.e. moving the wheel up and down to make its parts actuate while you listen for where the noise is produced. You would do this with the front end raised and the tire removed so you can listen with the stethoscope. You may need to turn the steering wheel to different angles while moving the wheel up and down to get the noise to occur.
The problem is, the spring is very stiff because it is designed to support over 1/4 of the car's weight, so moving the wheel up and down is difficult. That is why I suggesting using a jack to lift it. With the car raised, place the jack under the wheel hub and lift it up and down. The problem is, you may not be able to do this quickly and with long enough strokes to duplicate the noise. This is where a long board used as a lever may help. It's simple physics: The longer the board (i.e. the lever) the less effort it takes to move against the pressure of the spring.
Your noise may very well be the anti-sway bar bushings, but it sometimes is not. I once had that noise and assumed it was my bushings. i kept lubing them and replaced them, and still had noise. It wasn't until I put my stethoscope on the torque strut bushing that I discover it was the culprit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
The process of "leveraging" is to actuate the suspension, i.e. moving the wheel up and down to make its parts actuate while you listen for where the noise is produced. You would do this with the front end raised and the tire removed so you can listen with the stethoscope. You may need to turn the steering wheel to different angles while moving the wheel up and down to get the noise to occur.
The problem is, the spring is very stiff because it is designed to support over 1/4 of the car's weight, so moving the wheel up and down is difficult. That is why I suggesting using a jack to lift it. With the car raised, place the jack under the wheel hub and lift it up and down. The problem is, you may not be able to do this quickly and with long enough strokes to duplicate the noise. This is where a long board used as a lever may help. It's simple physics: The longer the board (i.e. the lever) the less effort it takes to move against the pressure of the spring.
Your noise may very well be the anti-sway bar bushings, but it sometimes is not. I once had that noise and assumed it was my bushings. i kept lubing them and replaced them, and still had noise. It wasn't until I put my stethoscope on the torque strut bushing that I discover it was the culprit.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
A mechanics stethoscope is a great investment for tracking down noises in your car. I have this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
The process of "leveraging" is to actuate the suspension, i.e. moving the wheel up and down to make its parts actuate while you listen for where the noise is produced. You would do this with the front end raised and the tire removed so you can listen with the stethoscope. You may need to turn the steering wheel to different angles while moving the wheel up and down to get the noise to occur.
The problem is, the spring is very stiff because it is designed to support over 1/4 of the car's weight, so moving the wheel up and down is difficult. That is why I suggesting using a jack to lift it. With the car raised, place the jack under the wheel hub and lift it up and down. The problem is, you may not be able to do this quickly and with long enough strokes to duplicate the noise. This is where a long board used as a lever may help. It's simple physics: The longer the board (i.e. the lever) the less effort it takes to move against the pressure of the spring.
Your noise may very well be the anti-sway bar bushings, but it sometimes is not. I once had that noise and assumed it was my bushings. i kept lubing them and replaced them, and still had noise. It wasn't until I put my stethoscope on the torque strut bushing that I discover it was the culprit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
The process of "leveraging" is to actuate the suspension, i.e. moving the wheel up and down to make its parts actuate while you listen for where the noise is produced. You would do this with the front end raised and the tire removed so you can listen with the stethoscope. You may need to turn the steering wheel to different angles while moving the wheel up and down to get the noise to occur.
The problem is, the spring is very stiff because it is designed to support over 1/4 of the car's weight, so moving the wheel up and down is difficult. That is why I suggesting using a jack to lift it. With the car raised, place the jack under the wheel hub and lift it up and down. The problem is, you may not be able to do this quickly and with long enough strokes to duplicate the noise. This is where a long board used as a lever may help. It's simple physics: The longer the board (i.e. the lever) the less effort it takes to move against the pressure of the spring.
Your noise may very well be the anti-sway bar bushings, but it sometimes is not. I once had that noise and assumed it was my bushings. i kept lubing them and replaced them, and still had noise. It wasn't until I put my stethoscope on the torque strut bushing that I discover it was the culprit.
I snapped few pictures of all rubber components. Please, tell me if you see anything abnormal:
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 429
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey, USA
2006 Mercedes-Benz CLK500 Convertible
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Indy
GL450
Excited and then Not...
Hey there!
I was very excited to try this fix for the front end noise I've been experiencing for a while. It all seemed to make sense...but alas...it wasn't to be.
So in the process of removing bushing brackets, I did notice something odd (to me) that I was hoping someone could help me understand. Who knows, it may even lead to the root of my noise and be an issue.
When I removed the brackets from the sway bar bushings on the passenger side (where the noise seemed to come from) I was able to move the end of the sway bar a bit to allow me to remove the top bracket. I could see this movement allowed by the sway bar links. Lubed it all up good and reinstalled. Then went to the drivers side bushings. Removed bottom bracket, but that side of the sway bar would simply not move...at all...even with a little encouragement applied. So it struck me as odd that one side would allow me to move it enough to slide the top bushing bracket out and the other seemed locked tightly into place.
Thoughts??
Thanks...Peace...Away...
I was very excited to try this fix for the front end noise I've been experiencing for a while. It all seemed to make sense...but alas...it wasn't to be.
So in the process of removing bushing brackets, I did notice something odd (to me) that I was hoping someone could help me understand. Who knows, it may even lead to the root of my noise and be an issue.
When I removed the brackets from the sway bar bushings on the passenger side (where the noise seemed to come from) I was able to move the end of the sway bar a bit to allow me to remove the top bracket. I could see this movement allowed by the sway bar links. Lubed it all up good and reinstalled. Then went to the drivers side bushings. Removed bottom bracket, but that side of the sway bar would simply not move...at all...even with a little encouragement applied. So it struck me as odd that one side would allow me to move it enough to slide the top bushing bracket out and the other seemed locked tightly into place.
Thoughts??
Thanks...Peace...Away...
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,109
Likes: 112
2008 CLK550 Cab
Hey there!
I was very excited to try this fix for the front end noise I've been experiencing for a while. It all seemed to make sense...but alas...it wasn't to be.
So in the process of removing bushing brackets, I did notice something odd (to me) that I was hoping someone could help me understand. Who knows, it may even lead to the root of my noise and be an issue.
When I removed the brackets from the sway bar bushings on the passenger side (where the noise seemed to come from) I was able to move the end of the sway bar a bit to allow me to remove the top bracket. I could see this movement allowed by the sway bar links. Lubed it all up good and reinstalled. Then went to the drivers side bushings. Removed bottom bracket, but that side of the sway bar would simply not move...at all...even with a little encouragement applied. So it struck me as odd that one side would allow me to move it enough to slide the top bushing bracket out and the other seemed locked tightly into place.
Thoughts??
Thanks...Peace...Away...
I was very excited to try this fix for the front end noise I've been experiencing for a while. It all seemed to make sense...but alas...it wasn't to be.
So in the process of removing bushing brackets, I did notice something odd (to me) that I was hoping someone could help me understand. Who knows, it may even lead to the root of my noise and be an issue.
When I removed the brackets from the sway bar bushings on the passenger side (where the noise seemed to come from) I was able to move the end of the sway bar a bit to allow me to remove the top bracket. I could see this movement allowed by the sway bar links. Lubed it all up good and reinstalled. Then went to the drivers side bushings. Removed bottom bracket, but that side of the sway bar would simply not move...at all...even with a little encouragement applied. So it struck me as odd that one side would allow me to move it enough to slide the top bushing bracket out and the other seemed locked tightly into place.
Thoughts??
Thanks...Peace...Away...
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Indy
GL450
I don't understand your post. You keep using plural for each side - passenger side "bushings" and "brackets" and then you talk about a "top bracket." I do not know what you are referring to. Best way to do this job using on ramps, not with wheels hanging down while the car is jacked up. There is one bracket on each side, and one bushing on each side. No "top" or "bottom" bracket. Each bracket is held by two bolts - so four total bolts. Remove all four bolts at once and the sway bar will have all sorts of movement since it will then just be hanging from the end links. The only design change over the years I know about is they fused the bushing to the sway bar. So maybe post a pic of what you are talking about?
To restate, I placed the GL on ramps. I removed the two pieces (top and bottom) of the passenger side bracket around the sway bar bushing to inspect and lubricate them. I did not remove both the passenger and driver sides at the same time. When these two pieces (making up the overall bracket I guess) were removed from the passenger side, I was able to move the sway bar up and down a bit. This movement was allowed by the passenger side sway bar links. I then reinstalled everything on the passenger side. When I followed the same procedure on the drivers side, there was no movement at all on the sway bar allowed by the drivers side sway bar links. As a matter of fact, it was so tight (in comparison to the passenger side) I could not actually remove the top piece of the bushing bracket. Hopefully this clarifies the process somewhat.
The key question, however, deals with the oddity that the passenger side had play at the sway bar links when that side's bushing bracket was removed, while the drivers side sway bar links were rock solid and allowed no play at all. In short, does this indicate an issue with the sway bar links?
Thanks...Peace...Away...
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,109
Likes: 112
2008 CLK550 Cab
You have a GL? For some reason, the model no longer shows in the user info. I have no idea what the sway bar bushings or brackets look like on a GL. But I doubt your end link has frozen up to cause a lack of ability to move the sway bar. Beyond that, I'd need to see it to evaluate it, and can only suggest removing both sides at the same time and see what happens.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Indy
GL450
You have a GL? For some reason, the model no longer shows in the user info. I have no idea what the sway bar bushings or brackets look like on a GL. But I doubt your end link has frozen up to cause a lack of ability to move the sway bar. Beyond that, I'd need to see it to evaluate it, and can only suggest removing both sides at the same time and see what happens.
Thanks...Peace...Away...
