Rudeney

MBZ sold the 722.6 transmission as "sealed for life". After they began to see some failures just north of 100K miles, they "unofficially" gave dealers a "suggestion" that they change the fluid in the pan (about 4qts) and the filter at 70K miles. Then, the 722.9 came out and they re-instituted the torque converter drain and gave it a "one-time" fluid drain (about 9qts) and filter change at 39K miles (60K kms). After seeing the poor quality of my transmission fluid in the CLK (722.9) at 39K miles, I (and others) strongly recommend regular fluid/filter changes. Again, the 722.6 has no TQ drain, so you'll only get 5-6 quarts, but that along with changing the filter and cleaning the pan and magnets is better than "sealed for life". Oh, and there is no re-coding or adaptation needed after changing fluid. The fluid/filter change on the 722.6 is much simpler than the 722.9. The 722.6 uses a dipstick (it doesn't come with one - you need to buy it), but the 722.9 uses an "overflow" method and it is very picky about the temperature when checking.

faran

To tell you the truth, I was waiting for your reply since morning

My car has 722.6 transmission, with ~68k miles and definitely planning to change the transmission fluid.

So, only specialty tool which I need is, the dipstick, is there anything else I need in terms of specialty tool?

I am planning to buy the Shell ATF 134 case tomorrow, in the attached picture, I am planning to get Gasket, Filter and screws.

Am I missing any other part? As I mentioned earlier, dealer is asking $70 for these '3' things. Any other place where I can get these parts, less than the above mentioned price?

Thanks again everyone.

Rudeney

For the parts, check places like rmeuropean and autohausaz. But honestly, you'll probably not save enough to make it worth your trouble shopping around. In addition to the dipstick, invest in an infrared thermometer to check the temp on the transmission pan (unless you have SDS which can give you the fluid temp electronically).

faran

Unfortunately, don't have any SDS, will buy the IR temperature and dipstick.

Any DIY or any helpful video recommendation before I do it?

Robmoney

Anybody got anything for sale for my clk500? 03

Rudeney

Faran - check the E-class forum. I think they have a sticky on the 722.6 fluid/filter service.

faran

Tried finding and searching on the E-class forum, but of no luck.

Anyone know any other source, maybe any youtube video or any helpful DIY instructions?

Would be really appreciated, since I am planning to change the Oil and transmission Fluid(Bought the dip-stick) at the same time.

Rudeney

It seems like I recall a DIY on the 722.6, but basically, it's the same as the 722.9 (and I know there is a good one for it) but with a few differences that make your job easier. First, there is no torque converter drain on yours, so you can skip that step. Also, you have a dipstick tube, so you can fill through that and check the level there (you'll need a dipstick) so no worries about needing a fluid pump for watching for the proper "overflow drip". That's about it. You just need a filter, gasket, new pan bolts (they are ne-time use) fluid and dipstick.

Here's the WIS:

http://benzbits.com/722_6/FluidFilterChange.pdf
http://benzbits.com/722_6/LevelCheck.pdf

faran

I knew Rudeney, you will definitely find something for me

Thanks very much for your help.

This is the best I was able to find from 'E-Class'.

Please advise, if there is any change on my Clk500?

I changed tranny filter and fluid on 2003 E320 yesterday. Here is what I needed:
(1) 5 liters of M-B Fluid Labels says Automatic transmission fluid ATF in 5 languages. (hoja 236.10) on the back).
(2) New tranny filter, comes with pan gasket and copper drain plug washer
(3) 4mm and 5 mm hex key
(4) One time use plastic filler cap lock
(5) 6 quart (or better) drain pan.
(6) ramps or jack stands
(7) small funnel and 6 inches of plastic tubing (3/8")
Get the vehicle elevated at least 8"
Remove the aero trays ( 6mm socket?) 8 screws, two trays) I was doing the engine oil as well.
The tranny plug is a 5mm hex (female) bolt. The sump pan is black steel and right behind the engine. My drain plug was locktited in so hard I had to purchase a set of Metric hex sockets to remove it properly. I got exactly 136 oz in my catch pan and about 2-3 oz on the floor.
There are 6 sump pan fasteners (4 mm hex). They use a cast J shape bracket that screws to a boss on the tranny but they pan is supported by a notch in the bracket that fits into the hemmed edge of the pan. Pretty ingenious and prevents crushing the pan gasket , no matter how hard you torque the screws (don't).
I had about 4 oz left in the pan so be careful not to spill it.
Remove the pan, clean the gunk in the bottom(I used mineral spirits). Clean and replace the ladder shaped magnet. I put a dime sized better magnet in as well as mine was very weak)
The filter is friction fit and pulls off easily. New fittment is reverse.
Put the new gasket in place and re- install 6 brackets/ screws. One has a heat sheild to protect a module on the tranny. (front passenger corner I think)
Raise the hood and remove the air filter housing. The transmission filler tube is right (passenger side of engine centerline) near the fire wall. Adjacent to and below the oil filler tube. The target tube says " shop use only" or something similar. There is a small tab that has to be lifted (flat head screwdriver) and broken off. Drive the remaining portion down and out of the cap. The tube cap can be removed. Don't lose the o ring.
Add the same amount of fluid that was drained. Remember the M-B fluid is in LITER bottles. I used the short tubing and funnel to aid in filling. Tube is small and takes a while to conduct the fluid.
Replace the filler cap and install new plastic key.
Cycle the transmission through reverse , neutral, drive, a couple of times and then look below for leaks.
That is about it. Happy Motoring

I am really looking forward to next weekend, planning to change the Oil and transmission fluid at the same time.

Will consult you guys, once I have all the parts and tools with me.

Thanks guys for all the help

faran

This is what I am planning to get to do the Transmission and Oil change:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/car...are%20Products

Dipstick:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-with-Mercedes-722-6-auto-transmission-dipstick-/111021884542?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item19d96b847e
or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-BENZ-716-5-722-5-722-6-722-7-722-8-AUTOMATIC-DIPSTICK-/290886169371?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43ba2ab31b
or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-722-6-46-L-Transmission-Fluid-Dipstick-/370787558993?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5654a92651&vxp=mtr
Really appreciate, if anyone can have a look and tell, if I have missed something?

Rudeney

Faran, your Autohaus shopping cart isn't "shareable". You need to link to each part, but that should be the filter, gasket, drain plug gasket (but you probably don't need that), and the pan bolts. The reason you don't need the drain plug gasket is that you don't have to remove it - you can drain the pan as you remove it (just have a big pan to catch the oil).

faran

Thanks for the tip about the cart, I just checked in a different browser and it didn't open.

Apologies for that

Please have a look on the attached images, it has the parts screenshots in it.

As always, thanks for the help

Rudeney

That order looks about right to me. Like I said, you really don't need a new drain plug and washer if you just let it drain as you remove the pan. Also, you may not need a new lock and seal for the filler tube - the old one will still snap in place and seal with the locking tab removed. Most people would only replace this in case they were taking their under-warranty car back to the dealer so it would appear to still be factory sealed.

faran

Understand, that makes perfect sense.

I can get Free shipping for an order above $50

Going to revise the order and order the parts, how about the dip-stick link, which one you recommend?

Thanks again Rudeney

Rudeney

Are you in the US or UK? I don't like the looks of the first one, but the last two, with the red plastic reading scales, would be my choice - just buy the "closest" one to you.

faran

I am in the US. I didn't like the first one either.

Will get the one whatever is less expensive

faran

Trying to do research and collecting parts, as well as all necessary information.

1- Rear diff oil, how difficult it is? Is it like transmission oil, drain and refill?(Sorry, never changed a diff oil in any of my previous cars)
2- Similarly, steering fluid?
3- Cabin air filter, are they under the hood or glove box?

Thanks again guys for helping out a noob

Rudeney

Rear diff - just make sure you get the right stuff. you have to suck it out and pump it back in. PS fluid - again get the right stuff. There is a specific procedure for bleeding the system which requires having both front wheels off the ground with the engine running so you can operate the rack without scrubbing the tires on the pavement. The CLK500 has two air filters -a simple pollen filter under the hood, above the battery, and an activated charcoal filter under the dash, passenger side.

mis3

The pollen filter and engine air filters are easy to replace.
The charcoal filter, on the other hand, was a challenge for me to change.

faran

Thanks Rudeney.

What you recommend for Rear diff oil? As I can see stuff for manual transmission, while I have automatic.

Please have a look on the image, showing Brake/PS Fluid and cooling. Is that good?

How often cabin air filters should be replaced? Which one is difficult, under the dash one?

Rudeney

I don't know about diff oil - just find one that meets MBZ specs. PS fluid is Pentosin CHF. For brake fluid, I like ATE Super Blue and Gold - they are the same, just colored to make it visibly easier to see when it's fully flushed. They may not be on the MBZ spec sheet, but they exceed MBZ requirements. And yes, the charcoal filter under the dash is the harder one to change 9just because of location and extra bolts to remove for access)

faran

Thanks for the reply.

So I bought '12' qts of Shell ATF 134 for $5/qt.

Bought MB1 0w-40 from Walmart at $24.97/5Qts.

Will post and write back after receiving the parts and before starting the work or if I tripped somewhere

Thanks again guys

Rudeney

Good price on the fluids - where did you find the Shell ATF 134? The last place I found it was Ryder Fleet, Services, but they quit carrying it.

faran

I got the case from one of the MB forum member, he paid like $25 for the case in 2011.

Now after doing little bit more research and making some phone calls, I am able to get the whole case(12 qts) for $56.28 at my local Shell Oil dealer.

You guys can also get it locally, just call Shell and they will tell you the local distributor in your area, you might be able to find more cheaper than $56.

Also, presently MB1 at Walmart is WAY cheaper than any other place, like $5/qt

Rudeney

Good deal on the ATF 134 - I had heard someone else say Shell can give you a local dealer. I won't need any for a while, but I have a friend who wants to do the service, so I may try this for him.

On the Mobil 1 from WalMart - check to make sure that is MB Spec 229.5 - I once grabbed a 5 quart jug there and when I checked, it was not the right stuff. Mobil 1 0w40 "European Formula" is what you want - and make sure you find the 229.5 certification on the bottle.