CLK-Class (W209) 2003 on: CLK 270 CDI, CLK 200K, CLK 200 CGI, CLK 240, CLK 320, CLK 350, CLK 500, CLK 550 [Coupes & Cabriolets]

2003 CLK500 transmission rebuild $4500... Too high?

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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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Please update us how it goes.

Correct me if I am wrong, I read that not all Valeos were bad. I think if your Valeo is defective, the coolant leak would have happened much earlier. Is it possible that your transmission issue stem from not changing the ATF for so many years? If so, this is MB fault. Transmisison service (ATF change) should be included in the service manual like coolant flush, spark plug change, etc.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 06:05 PM
  #27  
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Just came back from McNally's and they got the new rad installed, waiting in torque converter (TC) they might b done by Friday but I'll give them a call friday morning. According to Charlie McNally (owner of McNally's) he says it was, either way makes sense to change it aswell as a tranny rebuild, if i didn't change it might mess up the new tranny and I'll be at where I started :/ .
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 07:06 PM
  #28  
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I think all Valeos fail. It's a bad design of the seal. I recall a guy over on the benzworld W203 forum took his apart to see what the problem was and had pics of it. I know that once they discovered the problem, my local dealer was changing out all of them as they came in for other warranty work.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 05:43 PM
  #29  
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Just got back runs like a granny :/ it seems really slow/hesitant, but it works. I did the transmission reset trick sneaky thingy (hold gas pedal 5 seconds etc) right b4 it blew, I wanna do it again but I'm thinking that maybe the reason y it blew LOL. Also you know when u close the doors and the windows open and close slightly? It works on te passenger side but not on the drivers side anymore. Worked just fine before the repairs, if it's easy to fix I'll do it myself tonight if not I'll bring it back tmr.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #30  
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Nvm re-synced it. Works now, 1 thing less to worry about!!! Process goes like this, when car is in locked, closed doors, up position . (Using our IR keys)
Step 1 press unlock once but making sure doors remain closed
Step 2 hold unlock button till window goes all the way down
Step 3 press lock once
Last step press and hold lock button till window goes all the way up.

Last edited by Rogue-CLK; May 8, 2013 at 10:28 AM.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Rogue-CLK
Just got back runs like a granny :/ it seems really slow/hesitant, but it works. I did the transmission reset trick sneaky thingy (hold gas pedal 5 seconds etc) right b4 it blew, I wanna do it again but I'm thinking that maybe the reason y it blew.
I doubt that the ECU reset would hurt the transmission. It just clear the memory and I do it all the time. I think the root cause is either the ATF or the Valeo. Not sure if the original ATF would provide proper lubrication after 10 years and after 170k km, especially it was mixed with coolant.

About being slow and hesitate, an ECU reset would probably not help. Every time I do the reset, the car would feel more peppy but not too much difference. Did you test drive the car at McNally? Maybe further adjustments are required to mate the transmission to the engine.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 07:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rogue-CLK
Nvm re-synced it. Works now, 1 thing less to worry about!!! Process goes like this, when car is in locked, closed doors, up position .
Step 1 press unlock once but making sure doors remain closed
Step 2 hold unlock button till window goes all the way down
Step 3 press lock once
Last step press and hold lock button till window goes all the way up.
When you said lock and unlock, are you talking about the lock button on the front dash?

The way I reset my windows is simply bring the windows up and hold the up position for a few seconds. Then roll the window down and again, hold the down position for a few seconds.
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Old May 8, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mis3
When you said lock and unlock, are you talking about the lock button on the front dash?

The way I reset my windows is simply bring the windows up and hold the up position for a few seconds. Then roll the window down and again, hold the down position for a few seconds.
I'm referring to using our IR keys but I guess you can do that ^ too. Little things like this makes me... upset? Upset seems to strong of a word, slightly pissed I guess, hoping it wouldn't rain b4 I figured how to fix it LOL. Learn something new everyday. Pretty cool to open and close windows with our keys tho.
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Old May 8, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #34  
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Update*** Well when I got my car back, I did just start and go in the shop then turned it off immediately so maybe I didn't let it warm up first. It's back to normal after I came back home and started again. It's like some cars in the morning, just like humans takes awhile to get ready haha! I'll let it warm up first (1-2 mins) and see if it's any better. Car shifts like new, very smooth almost seamlessly. Overall excellent job, great price (for a Benz) @McNally's
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Old May 8, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #35  
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Good to know it's work out for you. Price of $2,900 ($2500 + $400) is not that expensive for a transmisison rebuild and new radiator. Your car will last for another few years!

Did you get a Behr or an improved Valeo?
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Old May 8, 2013 | 12:09 PM
  #36  
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Upgraded Oem rad from Mercedes not another Valeo don't worry haha
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Old May 10, 2013 | 01:43 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by sweet jones
My car used to turn off after a while. Would have to wait a bit before turning it on again but the same would happen. I ended up replacing the crank position sensor myself and it fixed my issues. Sounds like it may be that but you never know with these cars. It also wouldn't throw a CEL so i ended up figuring out my problem after searching through the forums for a bit. Hope you get your issue fixed without having to purchase a new transmission. That price also seems a bit ridiculous.
My CLK550 did the same thing - would just shut off. Once the crank shaft sensor was replaced the problem was resolved.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by woogs
My CLK550 did the same thing - would just shut off. Once the crank shaft sensor was replaced the problem was resolved.
Almost the same thing, mine didn't shut off tho. Wish mine was just a sensor haha oh well 😢
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Old May 24, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #39  
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Not my video but same thing happened to me

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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 02:58 PM
  #40  
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Same symptoms just happened, making a left and it slows down, restarted the car and works fine, did the ecu reset just in case(been doing it every 200km) maybe I missed a cycle. It didn't stutter when it failed. No CEL/MIL used a generic OBDII gave me PO221 Pending tho, it used to have

P0104 (MAF VAF circuit intermittent)
P0221(TPS/pedal position sensor switch ckt range/performance)
P0456 (Evap emission control system leak very small) all gone now. Have a video (not me LOL) while driving it does this nvm guess I posted it up already lol
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 06:40 PM
  #41  
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Side note noticed I'm 1 liter short, can't b that....
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