First of all, Hi to all and cruise safely! A newcomer here to this MB forum. So thank you for your patience in reading this first post

I came here looking for info on spacers for CLK w209 (especially front). Indeed there are many many threads on this subject. But none really conclusive to my own challenge. After reading numerous posts, comments and occasionally fights (oh-I-know-better-than-thy), I was even more confused. The matter appears like a religious war… and I am no newbie to car mechanics. So I decided I could perhaps share my findings for those about to make a decision on what they should use as spacers for w209 CLK’s, particularly the 2004 320 model.


Background:

My other significant cost-center (the one with the long hair) got herself a beautiful black 2004 CLK 320 convertible with grey leather interior. Truly beautiful car I must admin. The CLK came with an additional set of four 18" chrome Mandrus Manheim wheels with Barum Bravuris tires. Being the master-of-the-garage-at-home I was of course instructed to install the things a.s.a.p.


Discovery process:

Without much brainstorming, thinking it's a 30 minute job (it's only 4 wheels after all), coming from work I dropped suit, tie & Swiss watch, got myself a cold beer, pulled the floor jack and went on to lift the CLK to switch wheels. What an illusion...

Soon after dropping both driver side wheels I discovered w209 CLK's have staggered sets. Wow new religion to me! That's exactly what you don't want on my Wrangler (see I’m a Wrangler guy). Also Mercedes factory wheel bolts are ball-type M12 x1.5 40mm while obviously the Mandrus require cones (didn't come with the wheels). Once installed on hub, the rear 18" Mandrus won't spin because it goes too far and touches the panel of the wheel well. A classic case of inadequate offset (details further down).

Sitting there like an i*** I asked myself why the hell did the wheels come with the car??? I go ask my lovely wife about it. Now hold on tight guys, here is her answer: "darlin' they were so cute at the dealer's so I just bought them too. Was I wrong?" and she had that smile that says "for your own safety don't even hint I might be..."

Wrong time for fencing I said to myself. I dropped by my corner Mercedes dealer to get the correct spacers. What they quoted my appeared like diamond-studded titanium designer spacers... So I decided to source my own spacers. And off I go surfing Benz forums to find out the correct ET for the w209.

After reading numerous posts and visiting many online stores, I gathered that the consensus for correct ET for the 2004 w209-model CLK 320 is 32 .

The front Mandrus Manheim was ET 45 and the rear ET 53... way off!

And the twilight zone continues: I called the dealer to inquire why he gave these wheels surely knowing they won't fit. The boss' answer: "Sir this is really embarrassing you see you wife is so cute... anyway my young salesman could not gather his brains to say no". I can assure you I had the widest grin ever, all day. But still I had an ET problem. Finally the dealer advised me to either return the wheel or simply get spacers.


ET correction and spacer thickness:

Considering the desired ET 32 and actual ET 45 and 53, I calculated I needed 15mm correction in front (ET 45-32= 13) and 25mm (ET 53-32= 21) for the rear. And off I go hunting for spacer advice on forums. There I got all kind of advice, none of them conclusive (to me) and actually the more I read, the more I was confused. I decided to try my luck and call Mercedes in Stuttgart, Germany. Good to be a neighbor...

Not too hopeful I dialed the main number and asked if there was a number I could call to have an engineering advice on CLK's. I was asked if I was a dealer, I said yes (what the hell...). A short moment later a gentleman very kindly inquired about my problem. After only a few seconds he got it, asked if I had that protruding/extended hub in front with the grease cap painted in blue, and then advised me the H&R Mercedes specifics, xx556659 for the front (xx being the total extension desired, in my case 2x15mm=30) and xx55665 for the rear.

I sourced the exact references on the net and identified a suitable retailer in Germany. Got the spacers about 3 days after my payment. Cost for both pairs of spacers was 170 EUR. Message me if you want the name.

Are they easy to install? Yes absolutely! Really anyone can do it. See my next post with pictures

 

the bespoke front spacer for CLK

So from here.... to here....




If you have this hub, you need this bespoke spacer (H&R 30556659) and longer wheel bolts of the right form (ball or cone) for your wheels.



How long the bolts for front? I got 60mm and that's about 5mm more than required (factory is 40mm). I screwed one 60mm bolt all the way without spacer or wheel, and the hub did spin freely. So slightly too long is not an issue. Note this is valid for the front only!

Is it easy to install? Yes!

Clean the hub from any mud and/or superficial rust, spray or rub some anti-seize if you wish so (I did) and put the wheel back as usual.



Note how the spacer is a very thight fit for the 66mm hub and, German magic engineering, once flush with the hub, you have again a 66mm hub to perfectly center your wheel



And that's what you end up with. The grey "hub center" you can see is actually the top of the spacer




Have fun!

 

Ok rear spacers now, according to my calculation (see 1st post above) the correction needed was ET 53- ET 32 = 21mm. Nearest H&R size is 25mm and that's a DRA model (dual bolt).

I ordered H&R #5055665. Comes with a seet of 5 special wheel bolts included to attach the spacer to the rotor.

Now the catch: the install guide says use the original wheel bolts to attach the wheel to the spacer, and voilà. That's somewhat misleading. My M12 x1.5 40mm cone for the Mandrus came to a halt before even touching the wheel. (Note factory MB bolts are M12 x1.5 40mm ball).

Reason: The 2004 CLK w209 320 has a nice flat rear rotor "drum". The "original" bolts may possibly be too long and rest against the rotor before pressing the wheel.

A piece of advice: before install, place the spacer against the wheel (behind of course, don't be a blonde ), screw 2 opposite bolts all the way. No need to torque much. Bolts must stop somewhat 3-4mm BEFORE being flush with the spacer's surface. You will need ca. 1.5-2mm to torque the bolts to 110nm. Bolt flush with spacer's surface (or longer) = get shorter bolts.

This small (but critical) detail being clarified, how difficult is the install of H&R DRA 5055665? easier that that is probably illegal... watch:

You will need a torque wrench with 17 or 19mm socket, some anti-seize if you like and a brush to clean the rotor/hub (if required).

Get your favorite car mechanic. In my case I took what was available because I had to take the pictures...

Simply press the spacer against the rotor. It fits nice and tight all the way. Screw 2 opposite bolts with your hand starting by the bottom one, then screw remaining bolts. Torque to 110nm. Et voilà!


Free hint: use the holes WITHOUT thread. Threaded holes are for the wheel bolts...

Have the wheel properly positioned on the spacer and screw 2 opposite bolts starting by the bottom one


Screw remaining bolts, tighten to 110nm, drop car, wash hands, comb hair and take your mechanic for a ride to nearest watering hole for an ice-cold beer

 

here is the deal: after installing the H&R 5055665 spacers using provided bolts, noticed a sporadic very faint clicking noise from (in our case) the rear driver side wheel.

Lifted the car and spun the wheel by hand, no clicking.

Dropped the car and to hear better went for a ride topless (the CLK, not me). Noticed that clicking was mostly heard while turning to the right. Nothing turning to the left.

My favorite car mechanic riding with me (picture here under) suggested that something is very close to something and slightly touching something while the centrifugal force pushes outwards against the external wheels. And she went on texting her favorite friend. Here I stopped the car and looked at my passenger wondering where the hell did she get that vocabulary and knowledge.

Sending her sms, she asked what actually was in that Camembert-shaped part on which she fixed the spacers... damn me. It's the parking brake mechanism

Indeed pressing the emergency brake did increase the clicking noise.

Off I go lift the car again, remove driver side wheel, remove spacer. Using an angle grinder cut ca. 2mm off of each H&R-provided bolts, reassembled all elements, torqued to 110nm and went for a ride: no noise whatsoever and a huge humiliating grin on my "mechanic's" face to whom I had to buy another round of beer

My newly self-appointed CLK specialist: "after all you boys are just
ineffective without a real brain next to you"



Bottom line: spinning the wheel after installing spacers is not entirely conclusive. Go for a slow ride in a quiet place, listen well, try turning left & right, try the hand-brake to make sure nothing is in the wrong place

 

Spacers? What spacers? I don't see any spacers!

 

THANKS SO MUCH!!! i was looking for something just like this, cant believe i missed it, i have 1 question

did you have to remove the grease cap in the front? or does the spacer fit over it? thanks

 

Welcome to MBworld and W209 family Swiss! Good first post! You will find that the W209 forum members are friendly and knowledgeable.

I experienced the same issue with hitting the brake lines; a quick trim of the bolts fixed the problem. I didn't see your wheel/tire dimensions, but also check if you experience any tire rub with passengers in the back (during cornering load); you may need to do some wheel well trimming or go with a different offset.

 

Hi, and thank you for your considerations

Grease caps: no need to remove. They fit perfectly in the spacer central cylinder. Though the extended cylinder may render the vanity hubcaps impossible to click in place. I had the shave the legs of mines and hot glue them to the wheel by 3 drops of hot glue (easy to remove).

Rubbing: The wheels are 18" Mandrus with 225/40 in front and 255/35 rear. No rubbing in any way even loaded. Unloaded there is ample space to fit a cigarette box between the body and tire. No rubbing the the back either. It's close to the wall but no trace of contact with liner. No vibrations or shaking either. Tried the max speed of the CLK in Italy between Milano and Torino. Slides like a dream at about 250 (damn' governor). Though at that speed passengers tend to be noisier than the engine lol

Cheers

 

Wow she looks gorgeous.

 

the car or the girl

 

hi, i notice the stock front bolt length is 40mm. How about the rear stock bolt length? same 40mm or 27mm?

 

reason why i am asking is that, i am putting on 12mm spacers and need to order extended bolts to go with spacers.

Also, i notice the front has the longer hub, does the rear has the same long hub or just normal short hub? Hence the bolts length from front to back might be different.

 

5 years after you posted this it helped me in a huge way... MAHALO VERY VERY MUCH..

 

6 years later and still helpful thank you for this post you saved me. I bought some 2014 c63 amg rims 18x8.5 ET45 and 18x9 ET54 rims for my 2005 Capri Blue Mettallic CLK500 and was so sad when the rims didn't fit

 

My pleasure Sir!

 

Thanks for the write-up. We need more technical articles like this here!

 

Thank you! This is exactly what I needed!