Kustom1911

Bottom line is its your money & if it fails it will be a lot of your money.

If you wish to believe your MB dealer, be happy and drive safe.

mis3

No, no. I hope that replacing the fluid would not make it worse, my car has 200k miles with the original fluid.

I will schedule a change next time I go in.

tw2

Sorry kustom it was a poor attempt at subtle sarcasm. I never believed the fill for life. That was just the US owners who were told that. Diff fluid is always the last thing i get around to changing. I got new tires + alignment yesterday, it was quite out of spec.

megacrazy

Well well...glad to see I am not the only one who forgets to change the differential fluid. I was never for this "it's too late to change it now, it might break" mentality. If it's broken it's broken if you change the fluid or not. So change the fluid.

mis3

When I change the diff fluid, should I ask the indie to flush it with some solvent or just drain-and-fill?

Eojj

So it sounds like my power steering pump is going out on me. Getting ready to replace the pump, reservoir and seals... Anyone know how much power steering fluid I'll need to replace? I have a 04 clk500

xsever

The manual says Power Steering: approx. 1.1 US qt (1.0 L) MB Power Steering Fluid (Pentosin CHF 11S).

Eojj

Sweet thanks, I'll buy two just to have extra in case. These things are expensive! $20 for a liter lol

tw2

Yep 2 would be best for a full change of fluid with pump etc.

faran

Sorry, finally getting back to it now after a long and crazy winter here!!!

Complete noob question, how should I bring the car on jack stands, because there is a plastic sheet underneath the car, which need to be removed for Oil change.

Not sure where should I put floor jack? I know where jack stand locations are, but how should I lift the car?

xsever

Quoted from Rudeney from another post:

If you are using a pump to suck the oil out, the "plastic sheet" does not need to be removed since the oil would be sucked from the top.

faran

I am planning to drain from underneath since I have to drop the pan for ATF too.

Will I break that lower plastic panel if I lift from there?

xsever

The proper way is to suck the oil from the top, but some people drain from the bottom too.

No you won't break the lower plastic panel if you lift from there because there is an opening in the plastic panel for the pad where the jack goes.

faran

Sounds good man. Let me start on it and will report back in the coming days.

Rudeney

That plastic panel is called the lower engine cover. It has 6 bolts holding it in place. It is very easy to remove for accessing the oil drain plug should you want to change it that way.

faran

Thanks so much Rudeney. I was actually wondering how to lift the car by using floor jack, didn't want to break lower cover since I don't see any point/place for putting floor jack.

I am planning to drain from there, since planning to drop ATF pan too. Thank you.

Rudeney

The front center jack point is a rubber "puck" that protrudes through that panel. What I do is jack there (with the panel in place) then put jack stands on the frame, behind the wheels, at the emergency jack points. Once the car is safely supported on a pair of jack stands, I pull the hydraulic jack out and then remove the panel.

faran

Thanks so much guys, can't really appreciate y'all , especially Rudeney!

So I replaced following fluids today:

1- Engine oil with 8.5 Q, engine level shows OK on the cluster(checked by computer). Should I drain 0.5 Q or leave it in? Because my search shows 8.5 and 8 quarts, not sure what's right?

2-Dropped the pan with 6 screws, replaced filter/gasket, thoroughly cleaned pan/magnet and added nearly 4.6 quarts of Shell ATF. Should I replace ATF again on next oil change by using drain plug?

3-Drained Coolant from the drain plug and added new coolant.

4-Sucked old PS fluid from PS reservoir and added new fluid to it.

5- Brake fluid is still pending.

I snapped the Red tab and put the cap back on, heard a click. Is that tab needed or should be fine without it? Is ATF fluid quantity enough or more should be added? I used a generic dipstick(UK made) and amount of fluid was showing right range for 20 and 80 degrees.

Where is the BEST(Cheap) place to buy air filters, all 3? 2 on the top of engine and other at the top of battery. Is there any DIY/Video or thread for it?

Thanks so much for helping out

faran

Would you guys recommend paper filter or K&N? If so, what's the part numbers, please share.

Also Mann Hummel Air Filter or Puralotor or any aftermarket one, which one is better?

Thanks again

xsever

1- The manual says the CLK 500 needs 7.5 quarts (7.0 L). Given that you used an oil approved by MB Spec 229.5, you should use a fleece filter (Mann-Filter HU 718/5 X Metal-Free Oil Filter).

2- ATF change for the 722.6 transmission is required every 60,000 km.

The red tab is not needed. It's just used by the dealer to "seal" the cap for them to know no one touched it but them. When changing ATF using the drain plug method, you are supposed to measure how much came out, put the same amount back, then use the MB dipstick to ensure the level is correct.

I bought the Mann engine air filter from Amazon and the Corteco AC filter from ebay since they had the best prices.

faran

Thanks for your help and response.

1- I have used fleece filter HU 718/5 X. Now should I drain a quart since I have put in 8.5?

2- I couldn't measure old ATF because of the spill from pan, but used 4.6 Qts because I saw everyone mentioned the same amount. Should I be concerned about that much quantity?

Can I please have part numbers for Mann and Corteco?

tw2

Engine oil- if the dash display says the level is ok, I would treat it as ok so not bother draining anything out.

If you drained the transmission fluid only (ie didn't do a whole flush of the transmission and lines) I would change the fluid every 20-30,000km. I did the same and plan on doing it every 20k. You need to measure the fluid level with the dipstick at the correct temperature. If it is wrong you could easily damage the transmission so yes be concerned.

The mann filter is 718/5 as above. Just search for that on ebay/amazon etc.

faran

Engine Oil- On the Dash display shows ok.

Transmission, I used this one(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-T...3D330901234435) had two markings, one for 20 and one for 80 degrees. Checked both and level was showing fine. I dropped the pan/replaced filter and added about 4.6 Quarts, is that amount enough? Unfortunately I couldn't measure the fluid because of the spill from the pan

I am still after air filters, are these right one?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

What about cabin filter on the top of battery? Does anyone has a part number for it?

faran

While replacing engine oil and transmission oil, I noticed very small oil seepage at the bottom side of torque converter(kind of area, where O2 sensors hook up).

Is it normal? If not, would it be engine or transmission oil?How can it be fixed

Rudeney

That sounds like a rear seal leak. If it's just damp, I'd not worry much about it.