faran

xserver


Now I am officially confused about the differential fluid. Looking at spec:

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.7_en.html

I can see there are quite a few which are approved ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-BMW-VW-...VRjPwf&vxp=mtr
Now is 75w-85 is current weight and 75w-90 or 85w-90 is an old one or it's a different fluid?

I called 3 of the dealers in my area and two of them told me 85w-90 and 75w-90 is right weight for my vehicle. One has 75w-85 n stock and it's $31/liter,seems really good price, correct?

Can anyone please chime in and comment? Thanks

floridawriter

75w-90 is the correct weight for my 05.

From the Operator's Manual:

faran

85w-90 is exactly what my manual says too. Not too sure, what's right now? Manual or this spec: http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.7_en.html

xsever

From all the extensive forum research I made and if I remember correctly, the 85W90 was phased out and/or became hard to find and/or MB updated the spec to include 75W85 for our cars too (235.0 vs 235.7). I couldn't find 85W90 anywhere.

If you do some research, you'll find out the same so based on all that, I ended up going with the MB 75W85 (235.7).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Differential...JW5uJ4&vxp=mtr

DanielFD

the bevo website is the more up to date list. as xsever stated 75w85 would be the one to get.

faran

Sounds good, thanks so much xserver

faran

First of all, thanks very much everyone for all of your help and guidance.

I did differential fluid today by following this 'helpful' DIY (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ite-up.html).I 'Pipe' thread sealant on both fill and drain plugs.

Also, used a 1/2" 14mm socket with a almost 2-2.5 foot long ratchet and cracking both bolts was a piece of cake.

Cleaned both plugs after removals and used generous amount of carb cleaner after tightening them up.

I consumed almost 1.3L of MB original fluid. One word of advice(as mentioned everywhere), always open drain plug first, remove it and then remove drain plug. Old fluid will come out quicker and make your life easy.

Let me know if any questions. Thanks guys

Jma77i

DID YOU JUST PUT IN A STUD BEHIND THE PAN THROUGH THE HOLES AND SCREW ON A NUT AT THE END WHERE YOU WOULD OF TIGHTEND THE OTHER BOLTS FROM? SOUNDS LEGIT?

Kustom1911

replaced all 6 pan bolts (MB#140-990-46-01) which are stretch bolts (1 time use) with 6 M6-1.00 x 50mm grade 14.9 threaded studs, 6 M6 flat washers, and
6 M6-1.00 Hex nuts, which are stronger. I have done this on our 5 different vehicles with the 722.6 transmission and will never go back to hunting for the holes with stock bolts.

I have extra of these studs that I use as lineup pins when I replaced the conductor on the CLK500 @ 274,000 miles, they worked great on the valve body.

faran

Thanks K1911

I have reused the old bolts and so far no leak or anything.

Can you share a link please for the threaded studs/nuts/washers? Where did you buy them? Home depot or some specialty store?

I would convert them on my next filter change.

Just curious, since you have 274k miles on the car. How has it been in terms of maintenance? What problematic things or parts have you replaced so far?

I am contemplating to sell or keep the car, it nearly has 81k miles, transmission shifts like butter and everything else is good too.

Kustom1911

Diablo-Tuning or Monster Bolts on ebay for the studs (long set screws)

I set a strict maintenance schedule for every fluid in our vehicles, so most items are replaced as planned. The CLK500
has 290,000 miles currently, we purchased it used, and my wife uses it for her work every day, except last winter.
She purchased a 2003 ML320 for last winter, but she totaled that 5 weeks ago hitting a deer, which took out the front
end and ABS unit. She is using the CLK500 with winter tires until we pick up her newer ML.

I consider tires (60,000 miles), suspension (70,000 miles), and brakes (front 90,000 & rear 130,000 miles), Tensioner & Idler
& Belt (75,000 miles), wheel bearings (100,000 miles) as normal wear items.

The only problems that we have had in 5 years of use have been: RR window regulator, A/C suction hose, Radiator, and Conductor Plate.

As soon as I can get it back into my shop, I have planned to do the 300,000 miles planned service.
Drive shaft center bearing & Flex joints, Service or rebuild both rear axles CV joints. Rear wheel bearings, Rear suspension
control arms & bushings. Shocks and Struts. All four springs. Front wheel bearings. New inner bushings on control arms &
caster struts. Alignment. Anything else I see that needs attention, as she never wants to part with the car.

She loves her car, and it drives almost like new, and overall it has been extremely dependable. This spring it will drive
better than new. If anything ever happens to this CLK, I will be looking for a 08 or 09 CLK550, but she told me she
is planning on 500,000 miles on this one. I would have no problem buying another 2004 CLK500 if a southern car and low miles.

faran

Thank you.

That makes sense since you have your own shop

Have you ever replaced auto transmission electrical connector? Any AC compressor or alternator or any big ticket items? What about front or rear shocks?

I am curious, how are you able to get 60,000 out of these tires, since they are staggered size and wear out very quickly. Unless, you have same front and rears?

Thanks man

Kustom1911

I replace the trans electrical connector bushing and o-ring on the electrical connector ( from TCU) every other trans flush.
I might start replacing these every flush as I am extending the interval of flushing the trans to 60,000 miles.
When the conductor plate failed, the fluid had approx. 44,000 on it, and for over a year I have installed a inline Magnefine
filter to test, these get changed every oil change ( approx. 11,000 miles). I was astonished that the old fluid looked so
close to the bright red of the new Shell ATF134, could not hardly tell them apart. I am not one to use an after market gimmick,
but these sure seem to work well, time will tell.

A/C compressor and Alternator are original as far as I know. Shocks are suspension, so around 70,000 miles the get extra
scrutiny, I only replace as needed or when the timing of the year and her schedule make sense.

We run Michelin Primacy MXM4 (absolutely no 90V zero pressure) 91H tires, properly inflated for the use of vehicle,
all 4 are same size and rotated, non-conventional alignment because of car is lowered. 60,000 miles is the least the
CLK500 gets. I have 2 alignment lifts and 2 regular lifts in my private shop, I have saved enough in labor cost to
pay for 3 of them over the last 10 years.

Proper Maintenance on anything is crucial, I happen to have the time to do it as I have been retired for 22 years.
I only work on my collection and family cars. I am leaving to pick up the new to us ML and vacation so no computer for 2 weeks.

faran

Thanks Kustom1911, appreciate your input man. Have fun and enjoy your vacations

mis3

I cannot recall ant works were done to my drive shaft components. By drive shaft centre bearing and flex joints, did you mean the flex disc?

What are the symptoms of worn driveshaft centre bearing and flex joints? Do you happen to have the part numbers?

Kustom1911

The flex disc (flex joint) has 2 very small cracks starting, I figured the rubber
is going.

The center bearing does not make any noise yet, but at our miles I am replacing.

Your CLK320 probably takes different flex disc's.

sailorben

Flex discs are identical afaik. Thought about changing mine, but was reassured they were good, on here.

JimVonBaden

Great data. I changed my oil a few weeks ago using a suction pump. It took about 20 minutes. It could not have been easier.

zuzu_pali

hey are the break lines necessary ? I am replacing break pads rotors and sensor , break line is a must? also how much will that run abou and were can i get all four from?

tw2

I got them from eBay. Stoptech stainless approx $100 or so. Mine had bulges on them otherwise replacement is unnecessary but optimal. Our cars are getting old.