When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you have the cd changer odds are you have a bose system . If you want to put just the head unit in with no aftermarket amplifier you will loose the subwoofer . If later you decide you want the subwoofer you can just buy an aftermarket mono amp to power the subwooder . The only other component you need to make this work with a bose system is a bypass harness . Its about $60 dollars and will plug into the back of your headunit and you will run it to the trunk and connect it to the amplifier harness . This will bypass the bose amp and power all the speakers . I added the link below to the headunit . Make sure you email them and tell them you want the bypass cable. If you need help with the install let me know i will be glad to help.
1. What is the difference between yur listed unit and this one, they seem to be basically the same: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321924431722?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
2. To ensure I understand, the cable you mentioned enables the speakers to work. Without it I will get no sound?
3. Do you have a link, or links, to what I would need to get the subwoofer to work?
4. Lastly, is there any functionality from the steering wheel retained with this unit, and if not, is there anything that can be done?
Basically you need one with at least a quad-core, recent CPU, lots of RAM and a recent version of Android.
Also, keep in mind that there are 2 sides to these units basically. The Android side, and the "radio" side which runs the speakers and so forth. You're not going to get stellar audio out of these even if the Android side works great. The lack of a center speaker/subwoofer output can be a big issue.
Whoever is doing this should also consider doing a facelift upgrade so they can use whatever double-DIN head unit they wish and not be stuck with the 2 crappy manufacturers that make the old design units. It's only a couple hundred bucks extra and you're already taking the dashboard apart.
here you go . Before you order scroll down to the second picture in the description and it will give you the size of the unit make sure its the same size as the on in your car . the facelift have 2 sizes so just check it out.
here you go . Before you order scroll down to the second picture in the description and it will give you the size of the unit make sure its the same size as the on in your car . the facelift have 2 sizes so just check it out.
It depends on what you are looking for . defiantly a backup camera . A forward DVR camera is great and its like 20 bucks . I got it and its great . USB for connecting your phone .Once you get the unit hooked up if you turn it on and the logo is not Mercedes you can go to the secret menu and edit many things on the unit . Go to setting and scroll down to factory settings . Code is 126 . Are you adding amp , sub and new speakers or just changing the head unit ?
there is no way to keep the factory subwoofer without an aftermarket amp . Just get a 5 ch amp there like a $100 dollars and car run all your speakers.
there is no way to keep the factory subwoofer without an aftermarket amp . Just get a 5 ch amp there like a $100 dollars and car run all your speakers.
I can do that. Will it work with the factory speakers?
I can do that. Will it work with the factory speakers?
Yes just don't cranck up the gain . You might need a small gain amount from the amp .First try doing this with your amp at 0 gain . Go tyour radio and turn it up . If it sounds loud don't put up the gain . If it doesn't sound good or its not the same as your stock sound level .Download a 1k test tone from your tube . Turn your new radio to 3/4 of the way and slowly give it gain . If you want to change the speakers and you don't want to spend an arm and leg . you can get pyle 6.5" component which will fit in exactly in the front pod. There only $37 . and you will need 6.25" coaxil for the rear . Both speakers are in the same door so you can do both at the same time . Here is the link to the speakers
Let me know if you get stuck I will be glad to help. All in all this should take a day to do everything . Just make sure you buy everything you need ahead of time . Also just an update in my original DIY I had put 6.5 in sub instead of the rear speakers I took them out because they did not sound good at all . I replaced them with coaxial. The rear oem speaker pods only fit 6" to 6.25 speaker. If you want a 6.5 you can purchase adapters on ebay for $10 . The front will fit 6.5 no problem .For the tweeters you will need to remove any housing that comes with it and it fits directly where the old one was . I used a few dabs of hot glue to hold it in.
Hi Jim, my 2005 CLK also has the 254mm top width. I installed the following unit which fits perfectly in our cars. I fitted it a week ago and so far so good, full steering wheel control too.
Hi Jim, my 2005 CLK also has the 254mm top width. I installed the following unit which fits perfectly in our cars. I fitted it a week ago and so far so good, full steering wheel control too.
No, I ordered the 6m cable to by-pass the HK amp. Without an amplifier the quality of the sound is still acceptable to me. Unfortunately you loose the subwoofer, my car is the Coupe with the sub on the rear shelf. I am considering installing a single channel amp to get the sub back, but at the moment a bit snowed under.
Hi Jim, my 2005 CLK also has the 254mm top width. I installed the following unit which fits perfectly in our cars. I fitted it a week ago and so far so good, full steering wheel control too.
I checked the size and ordered the unit, with both cameras. Still not clear of I need the optical cable since I have the factory Nav unit, but we shall see. I'll get it in a few days.