I have the Audio 10 cassette radio in my 2002 W209 CLK200 K.....lucky me! The CD changer in the glove box is dead and the Audio 10 does not sound great. I just want to upgrade to a headunit with a single CD/tuner player. I know I would need a dash adapter plate due to the strange shape of the stock unit but what else would I need. I ve read that some of these units have fibre connectors to the amp....but I believe that I only have fibre connecting the HU to the changer....is this correct? It would not be the end of the world if the steering wheel controls no longer worked the stereo but it would be nice.....possible?....and what would I need to make that happen? I'm assuming that the HU does not have DIN wiring so I would need to cut and shut the wires or get an adapter wiring block. I'm not completely new to ICE but I'm new to anything Merc and especially anything fibre optic. Any help or links to threads gratefully received!
Before the big boys get in here I'm not looking to load the cars with amps and replace the speakers....just the HU! Thanks in advance for any replies.


PS. Its a UK spec Merc if that makes any difference.

 

If you have fiber optic cable in your headunit then it runs to the amp as well . I just went through changing my head unit and I basically had to do a whole system . I purchased the ebay Android touch screen that fits in the clk w209 and I ran rcas to the rear of the car and added an aftermarket amp. The original amp is in the trunk so its easy to tape into the stock wiring harness . If you search through my posts you will see my DIY .

 

Not doubting your knowledge but is that correct?....I've had the head unit out this evening and the only Fibre cable goes to the cd changer. All the rest of the wires (the ones in the right hand plug viewed from rear) are standard wires. The fibre only leads to the changer ...well it did...I removed the changer as there was no point having the non functioning unit taking up glove box space! The tuner/cassette still works fine. Makes me wonder if my basic spec Avantguarde even has a boot mounted amp....might have to have a look tomorrow.

 

The head unit will have fiber at least for the CD changer. If you have the optional Bose upgraded audio, then the fiber is also used to transmit audio to the amp in the trunk and there will be no analog audio wiring in the dash. If you have analog speaker wire in the dash, then no problem - just get an adapter cable. Here's the pinouts for the dash radio connector:

http://benzbits.com/Audio10PinOuts.pdf

You will probably not find a head unit with D2B fiber that will control the CD changer, but you can get an interface so the steering wheel controls will work (no display int he MFD, but volume and channel control on the buttons). Look for "SWI-CAN" or "SWI-PAC" for that.

As for physical installation, the car will accommodate a double-DIN unit. An installation bracket should be easy to find.

 

Thanks for that. As said in the opening post the changer is dead and removed anyway so fibre for that is unused.

 

Do your speakers have a bose logo ?

 

When I had my HU replaced, he basically ran new wires. He used same speakers and I added s new amp and 10" subs.

 

No.

 

Well I even need an adapter cable....those pin out diagrams look like DIN standard plugs...or am I wrong?

 

Yes, you need an adapter plug. When I installed a Pioneer AVIC in my non-Bose C240 (same wiring as CLK), I bought a cheap install kit on eBay that came with the wiring harness and faceplate adapter. All I had to do was splcie the wires from the AVIC harness to the kit's harness and plug it in, EXCEPT for two things - the MBZ harness has no wiring for switched 12v power nor illumination. I was able to pickup those from the ashtray, though.

 

Ok....after a little investigation I have found the following. I have NO amp in the boot (ok trunk ...lol) and therefore no fibre going to the trunk either. All speakers are powered straight from the audio 10 headunit INCLUDING the sub in the parcel shelf. The brown/white wires that power it run straight from both the rear channels outputs on the back of the HU to the sub. So apart from adding a 12v continuous and one for the illumination dimming its pretty much a case of getting an adapter wire, a facia plate adapter and slotting it all in.
My install should go like the link below.......also done on a NO AMP car.


https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...tallation.html


Obviously if I've missing something I happy to hear!

 

If you don't have an amp in the trunk then your job is much easier. But all headunits only have 4 channels and you will lose your subwoofer unless you add an aftermarket amplifier to run it .

 

I don't see why...the factory HU only has four channels too....the rear two power the sub AS WELL as the rear speakers. Why can't I do the same with the new head unit? That's what was done in the link I posted.

 

Yes but if you read the post it says the headunit does not give out enough power in the rear plus its creating a 5.4 ohms and the head unit can only handle 4 ohm . which means the rear speakers are 4 ohms and the sub is 2 ohms . This will create a bad sounding system . You can try what he did and just add a set of RCA's in your install in case you want to add an amp later so you dont need to take out the head unit again .

 

I did this in my C240 and it was fine - sounded better than the OEM audio 10 Becker. I did add a powered sub (the kid just had to have one). The rear "sub" is actually just a woofer with a cheap crossover between it and the rear mid-range speakers. It's really no different than using a co-axial or tri-axial speaker.

 

I hear what you are saying but my Jeep has 2 ohm speaker system and when the main front door speakers died of old age (and being under water one too many times!) I replaced them with 4 ohm ones as they were a lot cheaper.....made absolutely no difference to the sound or performance at all. I will risk it I think....as you say I can always add an amp if required.

 

Yes you can do that and see how it goes . It's not that it won't work but when your running 3 speakers on 2 channels you will loose power to the rear speakers . What headunit are you putting in ?

 

Not sure yet. Not fussed on brand but want something double din, touch screen and reasonably well specced without breaking the bank. Bluetooth for phone essential, provision for reverse camera would be nice, poss sat nav! A fifth channel for the sub would be nice too but might be getting a bit hopeful there! LOL!
I'm searching online whilst its quiet at work.....don't tell the boss!

 

You can get the android head unit like i installed its $360 . It has bluetooth , nav etc .

 

Ok...so moving on....I fitted this today. Yes its Chinese and very cheap (£65 for the unit ..about $85, £7 for the reversing camera...about $9... and about £9 (about $12) for the double din adapter plate) but it comes with a two year warranty and looks and sounds way better than the Audio 10 I removed....so whats to lose. Its CD, Bluetooth, DVD, SD card etc etc....the only thing this version does not have is GPS....which is fine as I have another toy for that job....and the sat nav on my phone is very good too. Its 4 x 45 watts so more than enough for me. I have no factory amp so it was a simple wiring job. The audio 10 was not wired quite as I expected....I thought the rear parcel shelf bass speaker was driven from the rear speaker wires....whilst this is true its the ONLY speaker driven by them. From what I had read I thought the rear channels included the ones in the rear of the doors as well as the sub.....but all the door speakers are driven by the front channels from the factory. This means that there is plenty of juice for the sub...which means I wont need to amp that I thought I might.

 

Looks really nice and clean . Does the unit support mirror link ? If it does then you can just plug your phone into the unit and put it in the glove box and you can see and run your phone from the screen which will help out with gps. I was reading about your setup and apparently all US made cars have the bose system installed in them . Your very lucky you didn't have it .

 

Thanks...no it just has standard Bluetooth. My phone stays in my pocket and auto logs on when I start the car. I can make and receive calls from the screen and my call logs and contacts are visible. Just the usual....but hey what did I expect for sixty five quid! One of the most useful features to me is the reversing camera. I'm used to driving a Grand Cherokee where the rear screen is nearly the back of the vehicle. Now I have to allow for a trunk I can't even see!....I think an AMG spoiler is in my future! But now I can reverse up to within an inch of an object as the edge of the bumper is visible on the screen. The camera image comes up on the screen as I engage reverse...even if the stereo is not turned on. Very useful!

 

search google for "marcusf signal to noise"

 

Interesting read.....obviously most does not apply to me sure to mine not being a Bose system and having no amp.....but still a good read. Will be useful to other members I'm sure.

 

Ok....so far so good. Question.....


I have not wired the steering wheel controls in the belief that I need a "box" to control it. Now the car has three wires that control the SWC, two control wires and as ground and my stereo has three wires that are also 5v (labelled as 5 volt key wires) inc the ground. Now is it too much to hope that if I connect the appropriate wires together I will regain SWC. My guess is yes...it is too much to hope for!! The stereo claims to be SWC compatible but my guess would be that would be for cars with basic analogue SWC rather than can bus. Any help would be appreciated.....I wont be buying an SWC adapter even if I need one as even at my immense age (50!) I can still reach as far as the stereo....and it even came with a remote control.....just how big as vehicle do your have to have before that becomes a necessity!? Any help, as always, will be gratefully received! Cheers.