victorbenz

This should be fun, been tackling all types of little to big problems with my car, and within the process I've learned so much am becoming much more skilled in this, now I took my CLK to AutoZone plug in the computer and it threw this codes...

P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit High Input "It on there twice?"
P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Malfunction
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio

Where can I find fuzes or how could I fix these problems on my a209? for EGR I'm planning on cleaning but don't know where it is lol, and for gear ratio idk what I can do but If there's something I can do that would be great I want to do this myself, kind of fun to be honest, with that said I haven't changed the Transmission oil or the Differential oil, which again I don't know how to do but want to learn how to do myself. Also the SRS light is still on after I fixed the seat but I'll address that later, want to focus on these 3 problems first.

BenzAMG99

P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
Might be a bad transmission solenoid, not entirely sure tho.

Amir_AMG

how old is the battery? Charge that thing up first

victorbenz

Battery is fairly new although I did drain it like 3 times lol but recharged it and works well, but what does the battery have to do with the codes... also I just pulled off the EGR valve cleaned it with a carb cleaner.

victorbenz

Idk man I need help so I figured out a way to take off the egr valve on the car I cleaned it but now that I drove it it wont go up more than 2000 rpm without limping, does that mean that it is going limp mode? how do I fix this.
Can't even drive right now and its my daily driver

insame1

saw your other post regarding this. but i am betting your P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio code is the cause of your limp mode problem.

victorbenz

that's a good deduction you may be right, but how would I fix it?

Rudeney

You need a proper diagnosis by pulling codes from the TCU. You can't do this with a generic OBDII scanner - you need SDS or another tool that reads all system codes. iCarsoft i980 is a good tool that will do that and is fairly inexpensive ($120).

I suspect you have a failure of the transmission conductor plate. This is quite common, but you do need the diagnosis to know for sure. If it is, this can be a DIY job if you are so inclined. If not, a good indy would be the place to go. On your 722.6 transmission, there is no SCN coding needed, so it's not a "dealer exclusive" job.

victorbenz

ok cool ill see when I can get that but what about the, throttle code it still comes up, and the throttle is a bit slow I barely tap it and it takes 2 seconds to respond and then it goes up to 2k rpms. I drove it and have to give it a lot of gas in other for it to start working

insame1

When ever i see codes seemingly unrelated codes all at the same time I go to voltage/amperage first. Unless you can load test the battery you have no idea if its good. I have a thread here about how I spent $1100 to find out I had a bad battery.

victorbenz

I think your right because battery died this morning for no reason so ill be buying a battery soon. Any good cheap batterys? the one it currently has is a Advance autoparts Gold Battery

insame1

I got the agm from Advanced auto. It was about the same price as the dealer battery though.

Timewarpone

Try Wal-Mart for the battery. I got mine 2 years ago from them and is still going strong. I was in a hurry and needed one right away. Cost be about $100 Also remember when you change the battery it wipes out all the stored memory so you have to drive it for awhile to build it back up. After I changed my battery it would not pass smog. I had to drive it for about 100 miles to build up the stored memory. Then it passed smog with no issues. I also bought an iCarsoft scanner on Ebay for $100 and I keep it in the trunk. Used it twice already. It pays for itself the first time you use it. The scanner tells you exactly what is wrong down to the smallest detail.