Jaybird123

Reviving this older thread, as I seem stuck at a similar point in my rear suspension refresh. Hoping the picture attached, showing rear drivers side (left) 'pulling arm' with bolt I cannot currently remove! So, is the general consensus that it is easier to cut off and replace in reverse direction, versus dropping the entire rear subframe? Either way this seems a bit ridiculous, but I've come this far and need to complete.

Rudeney, if you have sage wisdom I would sure appreciate it sir? The previously attached doc for driveshaft job looks daunting...I need the car to work when I finish!

Rudeney

No picture to see - try again!

Jaybird123

thinush

The bold holding the subframe to the car are pretty long. You can loosen those to lower the subframe slightly. I dont know what your tool setup is. You should probably use a jack to hold it up while you do that.

As well... you could try lowering the subframe slightly and then lower the left or right of it. These might work... I did it... but I'm not mechanic. And it was long ago sorry 😊 So confirm any answer I give 😊

Kustom1911

The easy way is to cut the bolt on the side closest to the body, (left side of the strut inner bushing in your pic) with a sawsall with a 6" metal blade. You can see the inner strut bushing has a metal outer sleeve pressed into the arm, cut through that until bolt is cut, then remove bolt in pieces.
you will also need to bend a 18mm wrench to tighten the nut when you replace the bolt from the rear of the car. the new bolt kit part # is 210 350 45 06

Kustom1911

I looked at your pic again, pry the bolt into its original position, so you have room to remove the bolt head

Jaybird123

All,

Thanks for the helpful suggestions above! I did indeed hackzall those bolts and replace with new bolts in reverse direction. All is back together now, and the first drive has indicated a PROBLEM! Please help?

When driving above 15-20mph, I get an occasional, quite distressing, major shift of rear end body weight! It's like someone throws a 200lb sandbag across the trunk from right to left! It seems to go back in the other direction less intensely some seconds later.

Now, I KNOW I badly need an alignment...as I have now replaced all 4 shocks, struts/shocks, and all rear trailing arms (4 per side). Front end seems fine, albeit needing the alignment. Rear end does NOT.

Would an ABS wheel speed sensor issue possibly cause this? Other thought is that strange device on right lower tie rod arm with strap to lever, connected to subframe? It is similar to the headlight tilt device on the front end...

I did notice the traction control yellow triangle flash 8-10 times while driving down the road at 40mph briefly (no surface condition issues), but it only did it once

Rudeney, ever heard of such an issue?

Rudeney

That lever is part of the HID headlight leveling system. It detects the difference in angle/height between front and rear axles.

If the ESP MIL is illuminating "for no reason" then you could have a wheel speed sensor problem.

What all did you remove/replace on this job? Obviously you replaced the camber strut, as that's the one with the bolt you cut, but what else? Did you loosen the sub-frame bolts? If so, did you properly re-tighten them?

Jaybird123

In the rear, I had recently replaced the shocks and springs...however I did that two weeks ago with no noticeable negative issues. For this latest job, I replaced everything in the FCP Euro kit listed below...I did not loosen the subframe bolts at all, nor anything driveshaft related. Upon completing the four support arms on both sides, I also bled the brakes using power bleeder and correct pattern. Of course, I experienced no braking issue in test drive. During same repair session, I also replaced the front struts (incl springs), strut mounts.QtyPartSKUBrandPrice2Suspension Control ArmLEM-2517302$35.492Suspension Control ArmLEM-2073103$20.792Suspension Control ArmLEM-1097704$21.952Suspension Control ArmLEM-1074603$16.82

Jaybird123

I noticed only one wire/sensor on rear left, however two on rear right side...are there speed sensors on both and brake wear only on right?

Kustom1911

As far as the rear suspension not feeling right. All bolts for the suspension must be tightened (torqued) with vehicle at ride height, otherwise the control arms will bind up, causing what you are describing.

i am not near my wifes clk500 to look at, but iirc one side has the brake pad sensor and speed sensor, the other does not have the brake sensor..

Jaybird123

Thanks Kustom. I tried to accomplish this ride height tightening by using floor jack at each wheel during parts swap while frame supported by jack stands at lift points in front of rear wheels. I just took another drive, and its strange. There is NO noise made when it does this roll/shift thing in the rear, however I did notice that the steering wheel is now off-center when driving straight...and when this shift in the rear occurs it seems like it causes the steering wheel to go straight and car head in that direction. It's almost surreal/floaty feeling, and obviously hard to describe. I will go though my work again here shortly...

Rudeney

There are wheel speed sensors on each side, but the brake pad wear sensor is only on one side.

I think at this point, if you are sure that everything is properly bolted down, I'd get an alignment.

Kustom1911

Rudeney is correct you should get it aligned. If all you bolts are tight, and all rear control arms and struts in the correct positions, and all done at ride height, your rear toe-in is way off and affecting the thrust angle.

simply put, on the clk you can have the rear end steering right or left, or severe toe-in or toe-out and the front trying to go straight, does not handle well at all. best regards.

Jaybird123

Guys,

I may need a little more help related to my suspension/steering issues mentioned above...

Update -> I lifted rear end and removed rear wheels again, inspected my work and found I had missed tightening two bolts! I thought I thoroughly checked my work, but I was tired and should have reviewed with fresh eyes. Anyways, lesson learned hopefully. So, I proceeded to slightly loosen ALL bolts for the four suspension support arms on each side, jacked each arm up to load as if on ground, and re-torqued all bolts. Surprise surprise...the physical sway issue disappeared completely! So, why am I writing this...?

Now I have the "ESP Malfunction - See Workshop" msg on dash. So, I pulled codes on my MB II and found C1170 and C1410. Rodney, I used your ESP codes pdf (thanks!) and see both the Steering angle sensor zero pt variation, and the Road test alarm. I had tried to do a road test calibration thing, but clearly didn't know what I was doing...

I know my steering wheel is off ~15deg from centerpoint and occurred when I was replacing front struts. Am I able to correct this myself, or should I just have resolved during the alignment?

Rudeney

What tool did you use to pull codes? I think there is a bug in the iCarsoft and Autel hand-held tools that leaves the ESP in road test mode. To get it out of that, you have to complete the test:

http://benzbits.com/w209/ESPRoadTest.pdf

Once the alignment is done, reset the steering angle sensor by turning it fully lock to lock several times with the engine running in park.

Jaybird123

I used the iCarSoft MBII for my 209.475...granted, it's brand new to me and therefore user error was likely, but I could not seem to "end test"...of course, I also didn't have the specific road test instructions like you just posted (thanks again!)

I will try this in the morning. I'm trying to find a new set of Mich AS3's for a reasonable price (ha!) with alignment, then I imagine most of this may resolve itself quickly

Rudeney

I have heard of more than a few people getting the car locked into "road test" mode just by pulling codes with the iCarsoft and Autel scanners.

Jaybird123

Rudeney

You may need to do the road test with iCarsoft connected and pulling codes from the ESP module, then clear codes.

Jaybird123

Hmm. I have been doing the road tests as you describe..however I cannot get the C1170 (and one of the C14xx codes for road test) to clear even after 'successful' road test completion. At this point, I will just see what comes of the alignment tomorrow and go from there. I will ensure they get the steering wheel centered, then go after code clearing (and road test if necessary). It's funny...I thought several of the other jobs done or planned to do would be harder than this one! Those rear suspension support arms were NOT an easy job imo...and I still have motor mounts and tranny oil jobs on deck...

Rudeney

I think the presence of C1170 may be preventing it from clearing Road Test Active mode. Looking this code up in SDS, it say to check and clear codes from the Steering Column Module. You may have a problem with the steering angle sensor.

Jaybird123

Rudeney

If the steering wheel is off due to a bad alignment, then you need to get it aligned, then do a steering angle calibration - start the engine, and while in park, turn the steering wheel fully lock-to-lock three or four times.